So I got kinda freaked out today. I happened to have a whirring noise that seemed to come near the driver side. I wasn't sure what happened. It starts when I stop pressing the gas and it ends when I brake, so it only comes around when I'm not pressing the gas or brake. Wondering if anyone knows what's going on. Probably going to the mechanic tomorrow to get stuff done, so I guess I can find out then as well.

 

May be early sign of brake wear indicator- a small metal tab on the brake pads that makes contact with the rotor and squeels usually.

How many miles on the brakes?
It helps if you state miles and year/model of car when asking for help, there are many variations and enough people here to find the answer

 

does this sound occur while braking also?

 

sorry. 00 tl-p.

It can't be the brakes because there is about 70% on the old pads and the rear pads have been replaced. Kept pretty good track of it.

Doesn't have any noise when braking or accelerating, just when cruising. However it doesn't come up within the first, approximately, 5-8 minutes of running the car. It started off as a simple whirring, like as if something was spinning pretty fast. After that, there was an intense rattling that I could even feel in the car. Not sure what it could be, but starting to get really worried. Just changed the tranny fluid today too.

One possibility could be that when I was working on my car a few times, there were things dropped into the engine bay that never came out the other end... However, this was at least 3 months ago. I think I dropped in a screwdriver and a few different sized heads that unscrew the hexagonal shaped scews. I don't know if this finally got sucked up somewhere and started rattling around in my car after 3 months and without falling out of that area, but I guess it could be a possibility. If anyone has any suggestions or ideas of where to look that would be appreciated.

 

Make sure you tell the mechanic about the dropped tools and parts- so he can bang on the underside of everything and listen for a jumping part.

Keeping track of the brakes any way beside physical inspection and actual pad thickness measurement- is just a guess.
Traffic, mountains- all sorts of things wear out brakes more than expected

You could even have a broken squeeler tab because you didnt pay attention when it started

Let us know what the mechaninc says

 

Hmmm i didn't go to the mechanic yet, cuz i haven't had time in the afternoon when he's open. But.. I just rotated my tires, and it seems like some of the lug nuts were loose .... Now that I've tightened it, it seems that there is no sound.

However, after reading your post 01tl4tl, I checked out the brake pads. They seem to be low, and the brakes also feel very bad on the turns. I guess you were right. Anyhow, anyone know what good brakes to get with oem rotors, and where to get them? I'm thinking of going to the dealer, or getting whatever they have at kragens. Also how long do the brakes usually last for?

 

Oh and I was planning on repainting the calipers at the same time because there are paint chips on them. On the DIY, it shows that he just used a cloth to protect the rotors from getting paint on them. Is this the only way? Can you remove it from the tube connecting the brake fluid easily? Also should I sand off the old paint or just paint over it?

 

Glad you took a look and are fixing the problem
Usually people have lug nuts too tight!! Good scare eh!
Always use a torque wrench to SET the lugs- not just check, but bring them up to 80 with the CLICK right as they are perfect. Over tight is bad

Pads on OE rotors or any rotors- HAWK HPS High Performance Street
Works excellent and very low noise or dust

www.hawkperformance.com for details

Far better than the dealer OE replacements
available at pepboys or its name wherever you are www.pepboys.com

Front brake pads last 20 to 40 thou, rotors the same- might turn once then replace next time, rears go much longer because 70 percent of the braking forces are in the fronts

Unless you are planning on replacing the brake lines now- dont undo them or you will have to bleed the brakes. While I do recommend flushing the brakes- thats easier than having to get all the air out.
Just paper and tape like you would any car painting project
Make sure to tape over the piston completly or probs will arise
Same for where the bracket hits the pad backing plate
Use a 3M scuff pad to rough up the surface of the caliper and clean spotless with brake spray cleaner too- or paint will not stick

You can use hi temp paint- not required for normal drivers, wont hurt if you do or dont
Spray in thin coats letting it dry per the can, and several layers are better than a few thick runny nasty ugly ones you later have to sand off and fix!

 

Glad you took a look and are fixing the problem
Usually people have lug nuts too tight!! Good scare eh!
Always use a torque wrench to SET the lugs- not just check, but bring them up to 80 with the CLICK right as they are perfect. Over tight is bad

I want to check the torque on my lugs now for safeties sake. The lugs haven't been touched since I had my new tires put on. Anytime I've had to take the wheel off or rotate my tires I simply tighten the lugs by hand really hard. can you recommend an inexpensive torque wrench that can be used for these types of applications?

 

Is it bad that I just use an impact?