Was having the occasional trouble starting where the car would turn over but would not start. Normally after a couple of trys it would start and then one day it took about 20 minutes before it finally started. Took it to Goodyear and had them look at it. They said the fuel pump was bad because they were noticing a loss in pressure over time. So I have two questions one would a CEL come on if the pump was bad and two if I do need to replace the pump where do you recomend I purchase it from? I bought one from Autozone and Oriellys ~$140 and neither fit. NAPA and Honda both want ~$200 bucks for one. Appreciate the help!

 

www.acuraoemparts.com

 

Should I trust Goodyear's diag? Thought I read that a bad fuel pump would generate a CEL. Hate to replace the fuel pump and find out it was the pressure regulator or something else.

 

kcleve52,

Once it starts does the car run fine? Especially at high load with high RPM? If yes to both, it is less likely to be the pump. What year and how many miles? Does the occasional trouble happen if the car has been sitting a few hours or overnight? Early Acuras had problems (esp Legends and NSXs) with the main relay and what you describe is the classic symptom of a faulty one. I seem to remember a few posts here about faulty main relays on TLs but the failure appears far more rare.

Some other folks will be posting with other (and possibly better) ideas.

Miner

 

It is a 99 TL with 109K miles. No issues once it starts. Actually put the original pump back in today and cleaned battery terminals and it started right up. Ran it around the block a couple times, several high RPM sprints, till it was warmed up. Got home and no issue starting. If I were to say there was a time that it was worse is when it is cooler 40s 50s. Last time it happed it was in the 40s and I ran a errand about 8 miles from house. Was in the store about an hour and when I came out it would not start. It finally started after about 20 minutes of trying and pretty close to a dead battery from all the cranking.

 

When having these issues of not starting would it spit and sputter or just crank over?

 

It just cranks, when it starts it runs fine. Only one key on the ring. The immobilizer light acts the same with both keys that I have. Blinks when you turn the key to the point just bfore cranking. I let the blinking stop and give the fuel pump a chance to charge. When cranking the green key light is solid and goes off right when it starts. I have only recently been looking at this and not had a chance to observe the immobilizer light when I am having the starting problem.

 

Anymore thoughts on my starting problem? Should I bite the bullet and order the fuel pump?

 

Keep an eye on it while cranking when having this issue. It very well may be the immobilizer

 

Okay, just so I clear. It is normal to see it 5 - 6 time when you turn the key just prior to where the starter engages. Once the starter engages the light is steady until it starts and maybe a 1/3 of sec after starting. That is what is happening now when the car starts. I will document what happens when it is crnking an not starting. If it is the immobilizer is that something only the dealer can fix?

 

So I had the battery checked because and was in fact bad. Replaced and now I have not had any starting issues for four days. Didn't think I battery could cause this but so far it looks like replacing it has solved the problem. Really glad I did not replace the fuel pump! Kinda surprised Goodyear did not check it.

 

The problem that your having is called "hot soak" It's a common problem among the 99-03 tl's.