This is annoying, I bought the rotora rotors from excelerate, and i got the best pads that pepboys had in stock the raybestos semi metallic pads and yessterday my car started to shake as i pressed on the brakes. I've only had the stuff on the car for about 2 months, but i do drive ALOT, so i cant tell you the mileage unless i get the reciept for the work done.

The pads are the slotted ones and they were installed by pepboys (cause it was the cheapest) so i bought the pads there, is there anything i can do to fix this, thats the reason i bought the rotors, cause acura's rotors suck!


FSTTY1 wana chime in?....


ANYBODY???!?!?!?


THANKS IN ADVANCE

 

Ok for starters did you break the rotors in, or did you go out and beat on them? You should ALWAYS (to every one) drive slow and easy on them for atleast 300-500 miles.

2nd is it a warped rotor vibrate or is it just a slight vibrate? slotted rotors are known to get a feeling like a warped rotor but not actually be warped. sometimes it takes a hard brake to reseat them. Also if you havent bed your pads in it may be a good time to try

 

BED them in? whats that, i did break them in properly, i set the Trip to zero and waited until i was over that to start beating them to death, it vibrates, not as much as the Warped rotors, but its enought to piss me off and scare me. i dont know Kris, im still confused

 

its a whole process....i dont remember the whole thing, but if u do a search u might find it

 

fsttyms1<<--posted this a while ago i was just nice(bored) enough to find it go out to aunpopulated area.


1. From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

2. Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

3. During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.

4. Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

5. After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.

6. If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

7. After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

8. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer

 

So i shouldn't have beat on them when I first got them? I remember reading somewhere on here that is what i was supposed to do....i guess i need to get new rotors and pads and do it all over again.


[CENSORED]!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

You dont want to bed them in right away, you want teh rotors to cycle heat a few times (usually a few hundred miles) then go out and beat them or bed them in. ive never warped a rotor easily when doing it this way. When i got my BBk from Brembo (on last car) i went out and bed tehm in right away and by the end of that week they were warped to all get up. when doing it teh other way they lasted over 65k.

VITEK... Its pissible you warped them? try beding them in to see if that takes care of it or if it doesnt go away.
Also like i said slotted rotors at times will give you a feeling like warped rotors while the pad and rotor surface mate up