An unusual braking problem (at least to me)
As I read all the dialog about bleeding the brake lines, changing pads, addressing warped rotors, etc. I'm not seeing an example that is occurring with my 2002 TL Premium.
With 105k on the vehicle, it has treated me well as it's 3rd owner (long story that I won't go into here). There were a few items to get updated and repaired since its 90k mark, but the brakes continue to puzzle me.
At 90k I had the front rotors turned due to a terrible vibration. It did OK for about 1k-5k and then it returned. To help the situation (at least that was the intent) I replaced the pads where it did improve with a little hiccup. When driving and the rotors heat up there is a little vibration (warped rotor feeling), but when slowing down (& pressing additional pressure on the brakes) the vibration stops. I checked everything and it looks OK with the thought that it is time to replace the rotors (not an unusual task at 105k from what I am reading), but am stumped at the unusual braking pattern. And the reason why I bring this up as recently the TL went on a trip in the mountains and the vibration was horrible.
...and thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks.
Bill
With 105k on the vehicle, it has treated me well as it's 3rd owner (long story that I won't go into here). There were a few items to get updated and repaired since its 90k mark, but the brakes continue to puzzle me.
At 90k I had the front rotors turned due to a terrible vibration. It did OK for about 1k-5k and then it returned. To help the situation (at least that was the intent) I replaced the pads where it did improve with a little hiccup. When driving and the rotors heat up there is a little vibration (warped rotor feeling), but when slowing down (& pressing additional pressure on the brakes) the vibration stops. I checked everything and it looks OK with the thought that it is time to replace the rotors (not an unusual task at 105k from what I am reading), but am stumped at the unusual braking pattern. And the reason why I bring this up as recently the TL went on a trip in the mountains and the vibration was horrible.
...and thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks.
Bill
The oem rotors were horrible. Im almost certain if you replaced them(if they are the oem's),then youll be fine.
Theres a seller here on azine that has a whole package,front and rear rotors and pads for 150 shipped. Find his thread. I believe his name is brakemotive. Alot of owners are happy with his product.
Theres a seller here on azine that has a whole package,front and rear rotors and pads for 150 shipped. Find his thread. I believe his name is brakemotive. Alot of owners are happy with his product.
surfacing OE rotors is a waste of money
so you took off material from a garbage part and it lasted a few miles before shake--what a surprise~
get quality stuff for rotors and pads,
ck the basic brake parts-caliper operation, slider tabs greased etc
and all torques are correct, that can mess up braking too
but what you describe is: basic parts need new
so you took off material from a garbage part and it lasted a few miles before shake--what a surprise~
get quality stuff for rotors and pads,
ck the basic brake parts-caliper operation, slider tabs greased etc
and all torques are correct, that can mess up braking too
but what you describe is: basic parts need new
skirm-
you have bad info on the calipers and pressure distribution causing rotor warp
When you go from the wider 1 piston TL caliper to the 2 smaller legend dual pistons-
the total area being contacted is increased,
and the spreading of pressure more equally across the pad back by 2 pistons, along with the 3rd finger on outer caliper side holding the center of outer pad from flexing - are what makes it such an improvement
Warping is from cheap metallurgy, overheat without cooldown, improper wheel lug torque installed and running like that,..all contribute to rotor warp
most OE parts are rarely the best- they are what the car maker can buy a billion of for the least amount of cash outlay,,acura rotors are one of the not so great parts
you have bad info on the calipers and pressure distribution causing rotor warp
When you go from the wider 1 piston TL caliper to the 2 smaller legend dual pistons-
the total area being contacted is increased,
and the spreading of pressure more equally across the pad back by 2 pistons, along with the 3rd finger on outer caliper side holding the center of outer pad from flexing - are what makes it such an improvement
Warping is from cheap metallurgy, overheat without cooldown, improper wheel lug torque installed and running like that,..all contribute to rotor warp
most OE parts are rarely the best- they are what the car maker can buy a billion of for the least amount of cash outlay,,acura rotors are one of the not so great parts
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