Uncontrolable revving while parked w/ hard shifts = doom?
03-24-2007, 12:44 AM
#1
Uncontrolable revving while parked w/ hard shifts = doom?
This evening I was on my way to my friends house to help him install springs on his Z. It was raining. I came to a light, applied the brakes, and the car suddenly jerked forward as if it had shifted up instead of down. I proceded down the road and got on the highway. As soon as I let off the gas, the car would jump forward very hard. I got to my friends house 5 minutes later. Parked, started gathering my things, then the engine started revving uncontrolably. I got OUT OF THE CAR called my friend to come listen to my car rev.
It is a rhythmic orderly rev (I don't know how else to put it). It wasn't sparatic. It would rev to 2500rpm then drop to idle the rev to 2500 and so on... until I turned off the car.
Later that night, I turned on my car, and it did it again.
When I was ready to leave (about 3.5 hours after I got there), everything seemed like it was back to normal. No real hard shifting all the way home. Got home and it idled fine.
Any ideas?
It is a rhythmic orderly rev (I don't know how else to put it). It wasn't sparatic. It would rev to 2500rpm then drop to idle the rev to 2500 and so on... until I turned off the car.
Later that night, I turned on my car, and it did it again.
When I was ready to leave (about 3.5 hours after I got there), everything seemed like it was back to normal. No real hard shifting all the way home. Got home and it idled fine.
Any ideas?
- '03 TL-P, 70k miles, original tranny, did have the oil jet done awhile ago
- This happened out of the blue. I haven't noticed anything wrong/abnormal w/ the car
- Just got an oil change yesterday. (Mobil 1 Synthetic)
- Just filled up ye ole gas tank today. (Yes, 93 octane)
- Was raining -- didn't drive through any deep water.
- I do have a AEM V2.. and there is that stupid hole right under the filter in the undercarriage that water could potentially get up.
- I felt the filter... I was a little wet on the surface, but I don't believe it was soaked.
03-24-2007, 01:35 AM
#2
Intermediate
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The engine revving by itself is strange. But the "rhythmic orderly rev" sounds like it has to do with the rpm limiter in the TL. There is something built in to prevent it from red-lining. So I think that there is something wrong that causes it to rev.. And then as soon as it does, the limiter stops it. Maybe when the car jerks forward it did so because it was trying to rev while in Drive. So it took off a little bit. Of course it's all a big guess.
03-24-2007, 02:33 AM
#3
Well the good news is I have never heard of trans failing with those symptoms, sounds more like ECU or similar
Check you gas cap to for 3 clicks tight and good rubber seal
Check you gas cap to for 3 clicks tight and good rubber seal
03-24-2007, 08:21 AM
#4
Senior Moderator
That sounds like a IAC that was stuck. Do a search on it and how to clean it.
07-17-2010, 10:35 AM
#6
Intermediate
Join Date: Jul 2010
Age: 38
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
07-17-2010, 11:52 AM
#7
its been 4 months- what did you do last time to cure it?
cleaned IACV?--maybe it needs it again,,remove TB and do it right
ckd gas cap seal and had it pressure tested?
possible major vac leak!!--air filter box cover, hose off somewhere- master vac port hose not secured and clamped on ?
cleaned IACV?--maybe it needs it again,,remove TB and do it right
ckd gas cap seal and had it pressure tested?
possible major vac leak!!--air filter box cover, hose off somewhere- master vac port hose not secured and clamped on ?
Trending Topics
07-17-2010, 11:54 AM
#8
try removing the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash
reinsert after a minute- forces a master reset of the ECU
reinsert after a minute- forces a master reset of the ECU
07-17-2010, 11:56 AM
#9
It's actually been 3 years. LoL. Last time, I did nothing. It fixed itself.
I've visually checked the connections/clamps on the intake tube and filter and the vacuum hoses and they seem OK.
I'm getting an engine light and a TCS light occasionally.
For measure, I added Seafoam to the gas tank. I was on a 1/4 tank w/ the "E" light just coming on.. Perhaps I got the last bit of gritty gas?
Humm, reset ECU....
I've visually checked the connections/clamps on the intake tube and filter and the vacuum hoses and they seem OK.
I'm getting an engine light and a TCS light occasionally.
For measure, I added Seafoam to the gas tank. I was on a 1/4 tank w/ the "E" light just coming on.. Perhaps I got the last bit of gritty gas?
Humm, reset ECU....
07-17-2010, 12:33 PM
#10
the low light comes on at 3 gal remaining in tank of which 2.5 can be picked up by the pump
Its definetly in the crud area when below that- especially if on E or below
How much seafoam was added to how many gallons- those 3?
max seafaom dose is 2 oz per gal, more is not doing anything per seafoam,
less than 3/4 oz per gal isnt working either--1 for maitenance and 2 for cleaning are the magic ratios
I like to use a whole can in just under half tank- 8 gal so it gets a long cleaning time
Its definetly in the crud area when below that- especially if on E or below
How much seafoam was added to how many gallons- those 3?
max seafaom dose is 2 oz per gal, more is not doing anything per seafoam,
less than 3/4 oz per gal isnt working either--1 for maitenance and 2 for cleaning are the magic ratios
I like to use a whole can in just under half tank- 8 gal so it gets a long cleaning time
07-17-2010, 12:33 PM
#11
pull the vac lines gently- not just visual
07-17-2010, 12:41 PM
#12
I used a whole can in 1/2 tank of Shell...
I did pull the lines and felt around the connections to see if I could feel any super obvious air spewing out or sucking somewhere.
If I'm feeling up to it tomorrow, which I probably won't, I might take off the intake manifold and see how things are in there. I wonder if my spacers kicked the bucket? It's just odd this came out of no where and there were no signs.
OH! ALSO!
For the past few months, on occasion, when I accelerate WOT, the engine will bounce off the rev limiter prior to shifting...
I did pull the lines and felt around the connections to see if I could feel any super obvious air spewing out or sucking somewhere.
If I'm feeling up to it tomorrow, which I probably won't, I might take off the intake manifold and see how things are in there. I wonder if my spacers kicked the bucket? It's just odd this came out of no where and there were no signs.
OH! ALSO!
For the past few months, on occasion, when I accelerate WOT, the engine will bounce off the rev limiter prior to shifting...
07-17-2010, 01:16 PM
#13
Senior Moderator
take your IACV off and clean it.
07-19-2010, 07:30 AM
#14
The shop says the Idle Air Controller went bad... He actually used the term "Idle Speed Control Motor". He said it's not the EGR valve that's dirty because that would throw a code. He said the service bulletin says to not clean the "IAC".
$516 parts & labor.
$516 parts & labor.
07-19-2010, 10:03 AM
#15
Instructor
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is a $2 fix. One can of carb cleaner and some patience.
Lots of members did it.
Worse case scenario, the part is $200.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/replaced-iac-valve-479308/
07-22-2010, 01:45 AM
#16
Cruisin'
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Whaaa>??!?! This is downright criminal!!! Taking off the IAC literally takes 10-15 minutes, and the part costs $91 at Autozone, maybe a bit more at the dealer. I can't see how they can justify $300-400 in labor for 30 minutes of work total.
07-22-2010, 11:28 AM
#17
I found the part online for $185.. they charged me $204.
So yeah, the only lesson learned would be take it to a mechanic to diagnose the issue and then pick up the car and fix it yourself…
07-22-2010, 09:07 PM
#19
Senior Moderator
While their 2 hours may be a stretch, it definitely doesn't take 30 minutes. At least an hour or so if you're fast and know exactly what you're looking for/doing. That time period also includes “diagnosing” and then repairing. Granted, it was a pretty easy diagnosis looking back.
I found the part online for $185.. they charged me $204.
So yeah, the only lesson learned would be take it to a mechanic to diagnose the issue and then pick up the car and fix it yourself…
And even the oem price is 138.
07-23-2010, 01:29 AM
#20
Cruisin'
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My family has been going to this shop forever and have always been treated right.. so while I too thought this was a bit excessive, I just went with it because I wanted/needed it fixed. In retrospect, I probably would have just done it myself if I could have been certain that's what the problem was and the fix was a $200 (or cheaper) part. Hindsight is 20/20. I had just worked 8 12hour shifts in a week and didn't feel like troubleshooting this in 94deg heat.
While their 2 hours may be a stretch, it definitely doesn't take 30 minutes. At least an hour or so if you're fast and know exactly what you're looking for/doing. That time period also includes “diagnosing” and then repairing. Granted, it was a pretty easy diagnosis looking back.
I found the part online for $185.. they charged me $204.
So yeah, the only lesson learned would be take it to a mechanic to diagnose the issue and then pick up the car and fix it yourself…
While their 2 hours may be a stretch, it definitely doesn't take 30 minutes. At least an hour or so if you're fast and know exactly what you're looking for/doing. That time period also includes “diagnosing” and then repairing. Granted, it was a pretty easy diagnosis looking back.
I found the part online for $185.. they charged me $204.
So yeah, the only lesson learned would be take it to a mechanic to diagnose the issue and then pick up the car and fix it yourself…
Here is the part at autozone with a 2yr warranty:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-je2v5Z9gsof
And it does take 15 mins, to take off and 10 mins to put back on. I know because I just did it one week ago.
As for the diagnosis, this is such a common problem with this car and is so easy to diagnose, you don't even need to hook up a computer to do it.
Don't go on the defensive bud, I'm not against you, I'm with you. And I am angry for you.
07-23-2010, 07:15 AM
#21
shops charge a set fee for diagnosis- usually 1 to 1.5 hours
if the tech can diagnose in 10 minutes- good for him-- he still gets paid the full time and moves on to another car,,the shop makes bucks for nothing and still overcharges for the work
back in the day- each job included a small diagnosis time, not the screw you up front for triple the amount they do now
hopefully people will learn from this thread--when several wise ziners say the same thing- its a good idea to at least ck what they suggest
if the tech can diagnose in 10 minutes- good for him-- he still gets paid the full time and moves on to another car,,the shop makes bucks for nothing and still overcharges for the work
back in the day- each job included a small diagnosis time, not the screw you up front for triple the amount they do now
hopefully people will learn from this thread--when several wise ziners say the same thing- its a good idea to at least ck what they suggest
07-23-2010, 10:42 AM
#22
shops charge a set fee for diagnosis- usually 1 to 1.5 hours
if the tech can diagnose in 10 minutes- good for him-- he still gets paid the full time and moves on to another car,,the shop makes bucks for nothing and still overcharges for the work
back in the day- each job included a small diagnosis time, not the screw you up front for triple the amount they do now
if the tech can diagnose in 10 minutes- good for him-- he still gets paid the full time and moves on to another car,,the shop makes bucks for nothing and still overcharges for the work
back in the day- each job included a small diagnosis time, not the screw you up front for triple the amount they do now
fsttyms1 suggested cleaning it… I didn’t want to clean it. See previous post as to why.
After that point, my car was already at the shop.
But yes, it’s easy to say after the fact, this was a bad decision… but, that’s after knowing what it really was.
This is by no means an excuse, just pointing something out... however, back in the day, when I came on here regularly, you could ask a question and it would be answered almost immediately. It was more active, people were more engaged in wanting to learn, fix, and modify this car. Times have changed.
I don’t think you read this thread.
Last edited by jayunsplanet; 07-23-2010 at 10:49 AM.
07-23-2010, 12:20 PM
#23
as a forum operator you should understand there are a few experts and many guessers.
fsttyms1 is one of the most knowledgable people about the TL you will ever find.
No doubt the service bulletin said not to clean- acura is in the business of selling parts and service,,cleaning MAY fix it but replacement certainly will!
same logic by them says multi cyl misfire codes -only needs 1 coil but replace all 6 coils- that'll fix er!
If you detect attitude from some posters it may come from your first post-and later where you didnt want to go back into area you had worked on with the spacers
Plus you initial belief it was the trans,,we had to get you off that, and on to diagnosing,,but the shop already had the car
when you are not a tech or extensive DIyer, thats what you have to do- and use a forum for validation of their diagnosis and cost
mostly we feel bad anyone had to go thru this, let alone one of our own!
at long last its fixed- thats all you wanted right? when you consider the miles between repairs its not so bad a hurt
fsttyms1 is one of the most knowledgable people about the TL you will ever find.
No doubt the service bulletin said not to clean- acura is in the business of selling parts and service,,cleaning MAY fix it but replacement certainly will!
same logic by them says multi cyl misfire codes -only needs 1 coil but replace all 6 coils- that'll fix er!
If you detect attitude from some posters it may come from your first post-and later where you didnt want to go back into area you had worked on with the spacers
Plus you initial belief it was the trans,,we had to get you off that, and on to diagnosing,,but the shop already had the car
when you are not a tech or extensive DIyer, thats what you have to do- and use a forum for validation of their diagnosis and cost
mostly we feel bad anyone had to go thru this, let alone one of our own!
at long last its fixed- thats all you wanted right? when you consider the miles between repairs its not so bad a hurt
07-23-2010, 12:42 PM
#24
If you detect attitude from some posters it may come from your first post-and later where you didnt want to go back into area you had worked on with the spacers
Plus you initial belief it was the trans,,we had to get you off that, and on to diagnosing,,but the shop already had the car
Plus you initial belief it was the trans,,we had to get you off that, and on to diagnosing,,but the shop already had the car
I hadn't driven it all winter, as I bought a daily driver.. to save on wear/tear. And other than replacing the timing belt, this car really hasn't had too many non-routine maintenance related issues. However, it has more money in modifications on it than anyone would ever spend in repairs on the car. Haha. So that whole cost thing goes out the window.
But of course, I'd rather spend my hard earned money on personalizing my car NOT fixing problems. 
07-23-2010, 08:12 PM
#25
Senior Moderator
You really dont need to take any thing off. You can leave every thing attached. A little shorty screw driver or one attached to a socket wrench and you can remove it pretty easy.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CheeseyPoofs McNut
5G TLX (2015-2020)
35
10-11-2015 11:25 AM
