Ok, new '02 TL owner, not mechanically inclined. Don't have alot of money, etc....
I was thinking of trying to change my plugs, but I'm afraid of running into trouble with the One or Two that are hidden in the back under a hose. Want to increase performance and gas mileage. Assuming I can get to the other Four, is it a total waste of time to change the others if I can't do all six? If I can't get to the difficult pair, I'll pay my mechanic to change those if I have to. Am I wasting my time here, or is four better than none? Any other simple tune up things I can do? I've done Seafoam (both through the intake and in the gas tank)
As always, your input is appreciated! !

 

Hey Carmis, for best results....ya should really attempt to replace all 6 plugs. Make sure that you get the NGK's !!! They should come pregapped out of the box. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the first couple of threads.

Be careful when removing the coils....handle gently ! Also, make sure that there's no dirt in the area where the plug will be installed, ya can either blow or vac the area if dirty. Try not to bump the plug's electrode when installing. You can use a piece of rubber hose to start the plug or a special spark plug socket with a rubber insert built in.

The rear plugs are not really that difficult once you've mastered the technique. The PS hose bracket can be loosened, if ya think that will help ya...but not necessary if ya use the right combination of tools. Just a matter of getting the proper angle of attack.

About a week before doing the tune-up, put a can of fuel cleaner in the tank to help clean the injectors. Clean the intake and EGR passageways along with the throttle body. Replace the PCV valve on the rhs rear valve cover. Replace the air cleaner. So, for less than $100 and a few hours time....you'll be good to go for a couple years.

 

Well 3.2, as always you have instilled a confidence in me that will allow me to do this! I've read the diy about 6 times(I forgot, but didn't you post it originally? )I'm going to take a stab at all six! I seafoamed the intake about a month ago. I will look at the diy for the pcv valve.it can't be that difficult, though when I read it a few weeks ago it seemed scary at the time. the diy for the plugs States that I should use iridium plugs. I assume that is just a brand name. Is the NKG pay that's important, as I checked on advanced auto parts websites part finder and they didn't have the iridium, but they did have a few pre gapped nkg's. I'll confirm with someone at the store to be sure.
Hopefully by the end of this weekend you will see a post by a happy protege of yours showing off his good work! Wish me luck!!

 

If you remove the stabilizer crossmember bar (easy) then the rear plugs are easily accessible. But I was able to change the rear plugs without removing anything out of the way, not even the hose.

 

Well thanks to your encouragement . I took the plunge! After spending 1/2 an hour on the plug in the passenger side closest to the firewall, I gave up on that one and did the other fine with relative ease. Couldnt unscrew the bolt holding the power steering fluid hose. Ill have to give it another try someone soon.Motor purs like a kitten!
Thanks again! !

 

I think I used universal joints and extensions to access that plug. But I certainly didn't remove anything else other than the coilpack.

 

Well the first lotion was to remove the bolt that holds the power steering fluid hose in place (couldn't get a good grip on it). The other lotion would be the cross member bar, but even though it only had two screws/bolts on each side, I was afraid that if I took it out, I would loosten something that I couldn't put back! It connects to the body right next to what I think is a motor mount .

 

You dont need to remove anything other than the coil to change the plugs. And there is nothing to loosen or worry about when removing the strut tower brace. (just remember that there are 4 more bolts hidden under the wiper cowl, there are 2 pop off covers to access them) It will simply unbolt and you can rotate and remove it. Nothing will get screwed up removing it.

Take an old blanket or lawn chair seat cover and lay it on your engine. Lay on that and work from on top of the motor comfortably. It may seem impossible to get to it but its really not that hard.

 

That's first "option"! ! Predictive text feature, sorry

 

Ha, hah...yeah done that a few times helping buddies with their big pickups, but seriously,
Carmis should be able to get at it by standing behind the passenger side front fender. Then once the coil is removed, use a flex head ratchet or uv joint adaptor along with about a 3" extension attached to the deep plug socket to assist removal of the last plug. Place the ratchet towards the middle of the cowl, remember to have the ratchet mechanism properly set to remove.

Congrats, you'll now be an officially and fully certified "Shade Tree Mechanic". Kick back in your lawn chair or lay down on the blanket and have a beer. Ya gotta savor the moment of self gratification that "DIY"s give ya.....besides saving a few bucks to buy some more parts and tools for the next project !

 

Ok, I think I have it. Just want to make sure we are talking about the bar running parallel to the firewall, right? Your saying that two of the screws are facing up and two down? (I'm at work now without the car) so I have to loosen the other two from under the car, correct? Well, if you tell me that if I take them out the motor won't drop out or shift out of place, then I'll do it. I'm going to try the bolts on the power steering hose again. You say it can be done, so I'll try again! Wish me luck!

 

It's all in the angle of attack......don't make it any more difficult then it needs to be !

As these guys said, the plug can be removed with some patience....finesse....and the right tools for the job at hand. While you're into the rear side of the motor and finish the last plug.....go to the other side of the valve cover and replace the PCV valve which is located a few inches above the plug on driver's side rear vc.

 

Im ready willing and. .......I think able! Saturday is the day@
Thanks 3.2. Your a scholar And a gentleman!

 

Like said above, dont make it any more difficult than it needs to be. The plug can easily be removed with the bar in place. The only thing that makes it harder is on the type-s with the IMRC motor. Just take your time and have a little patience and you will get it.