Transmission problem
#1
Transmission problem
I recently got a 2000 TL from my dad and the transmission has a problem (most likely the recall) my dad got the TL from his friend at maybe 170k and now at 200 the engine is completely fine. The transmission makes the car jerk when going into reverse, D5 (drive) stays only in first gear and the sport shifter (+-) stay at 1st gear. What we've been doing is putting it all the way down into 2 then shifting into D3,D4 then D5, (sometimes re car also stalls and will not shift) so to shift the car I just have to use the D1-D5 all the way at the bottom. I believe the transmission isn't completely fucked because it can still shift like this. Can anyone tell me what's wrong? This is my first car and I'd really like to save it because most of its features still work.
#2
Drifting
FYI: When the shifter is in manual mode (shifter is on the left side of D5) it will only shift/stay in 1st and second gear. If you push it forward once it should up shift; when you pull the shifter back once then it should down shift once and so-on.
So with the shifter on the D5 (right side-auto mode) the trans doesn't shift automatically through the gears, correct?
But it does shift manually (right side-auto mode) D1-D5, 1st - 5th gears up/down by moving the shift lever, correct?
You need to read the owners manual to understand how the auto and manual modes work so we are on the same page.
Google for a free owners manual pdf download from honda.
The first thing you should do is to do a 3x3 with honda DW1 atf and change the external trans filter.
Search the 2g problem & fixes about atf 3x3.
So with the shifter on the D5 (right side-auto mode) the trans doesn't shift automatically through the gears, correct?
But it does shift manually (right side-auto mode) D1-D5, 1st - 5th gears up/down by moving the shift lever, correct?
You need to read the owners manual to understand how the auto and manual modes work so we are on the same page.
Google for a free owners manual pdf download from honda.
The first thing you should do is to do a 3x3 with honda DW1 atf and change the external trans filter.
Search the 2g problem & fixes about atf 3x3.
Last edited by 01acls; 01-12-2016 at 05:08 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Ryan S (Autobotras) (01-12-2016)
#3
I do understand how the manual shifter works and it works only in 1 and 2, but when pushing it up and 3 comes up on the tachometer it doesnt shift. Same goes for 4 and 5.
So with the shifter on the D5 (right side-auto mode) the trans doesn't shift automatically through the gears, correct? Correct it only stays in 1st gear.
But it does shift manually (right side-auto mode) D1-D5, 1st - 5th gears up/down by moving the shift lever, correct? Correct, but sometimes when trying to shift it stalls.
So with the shifter on the D5 (right side-auto mode) the trans doesn't shift automatically through the gears, correct? Correct it only stays in 1st gear.
But it does shift manually (right side-auto mode) D1-D5, 1st - 5th gears up/down by moving the shift lever, correct? Correct, but sometimes when trying to shift it stalls.
#4
Mr.Helpful Diagram
Welcome to Acurazine.
If the engine is stalling you may need to clean out the idle control valve and throttle plate.
If the engine is stalling you may need to clean out the idle control valve and throttle plate.
#5
Drifting
Ryan, is that correct?
Q:
So in manual mode- shifter on the left side, does the car shift at all?
The car basically only has two gears now, 1st and 2nd and flares in 3rd-5th gears?
The flares, does it start happening at low rpm or higher in the rpms?
#6
Yeah you're right the engine does flare on both the right shifting side and the manual mode on the left.
the flare happens in between trying to shift and sometimes it wont even catch and i have to go to another
3rd to 5th work only on the right side shifting not manual
the flare happens in between trying to shift and sometimes it wont even catch and i have to go to another
3rd to 5th work only on the right side shifting not manual
#7
Mr.Helpful Diagram
Got it, I would definitely look at A/B solenoid near the battery tray the valves may be stuck or the screens may be blocked.
The following users liked this post:
Ryan S (Autobotras) (01-12-2016)
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#8
#10
Drifting
Try the following...
1. 3x3 ATF and external filter change (Aftermarket filter is fine).
Replace solenoids...
2. Pressure A/B Solenoid and three O-rings. Chech for debris at the bottom of the three pipes.
3. Mainspeed Sensor.
4. Countershaft Speed Sensor.
5. ATF Temperature Sensor.
6. Chech for debris under Pressure C Solenoid.
OEM PARTS/FLUILDS ONLY.
1. 3x3 ATF and external filter change (Aftermarket filter is fine).
Replace solenoids...
2. Pressure A/B Solenoid and three O-rings. Chech for debris at the bottom of the three pipes.
3. Mainspeed Sensor.
4. Countershaft Speed Sensor.
5. ATF Temperature Sensor.
6. Chech for debris under Pressure C Solenoid.
OEM PARTS/FLUILDS ONLY.
Last edited by 01acls; 01-13-2016 at 02:19 AM.
#11
Try the following...
1. 3x3 ATF and external filter change (Aftermarket filter is fine).
Replace solenoids...
2. Pressure A/B Solenoid and three O-rings. Chech for debris at the bottom of the three pipes.
3. Mainspeed Sensor.
4. Countershaft Speed Sensor.
5. ATF Temperature Sensor.
6. Chech for debris under Pressure C Solenoid.
OEM PARTS/FLUILDS ONLY.
1. 3x3 ATF and external filter change (Aftermarket filter is fine).
Replace solenoids...
2. Pressure A/B Solenoid and three O-rings. Chech for debris at the bottom of the three pipes.
3. Mainspeed Sensor.
4. Countershaft Speed Sensor.
5. ATF Temperature Sensor.
6. Chech for debris under Pressure C Solenoid.
OEM PARTS/FLUILDS ONLY.
How much do you think all that would cost at a mechanic? I'm working with about 1-1.5k
#14
Mr.Helpful Diagram
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