Hey guys. 2003 TL-S 234,000 miles, 5 speed automatic. This is my second transmission on the car (got it at 190,000 miles) and just recently I noticed that it's making a grinding sound in the first three gears. I'll be at a dead stop, accelerate, and the grinding sound starts, the car shifts and the grinding sound persists all the way into 3rd gear. 4th and 5th gears seem to be ok as I haven't heard any noise when my car is in those gears. I have done a 3x3 transmission drain/refill. And while the tranny does shift A LOT better, the grinding sound still persists. I was thinking of putting that Lucas transmission stuff in there to see if that will help, but I won't if you guys oppose it. So besides the Lucas stuff, any other suggestions?

 

A grinding noise usually means the gears are failing but sometimes it can also mean something is loose. At this point is unreasonable to think you still have warranty over the rebuild? (dunno if rebuild or recall change)..

 

Hey Eespinos93, when the tranny was last replaced @ 190k ........was it a rebuild of the old tranny or a new reconditoned one ? Any warranty left after putting on 44k to it ? Any CEL codes ?

Internal grinding within the tranny's gears can't be good. How did the drain plug's magnet appear when ya drained the old ATF ? Lot's of metallic residue ?

At this point, a professional evaluation may be necessary. Additives may temporarily buy ya a few more miles, but will hardly cure any damage already done.

Start researching the "AV6" donor replacement for your TL's ailing tranny. Source a tranny from an '06>'07 Honda Accord V-6 with lower mileage for less than $1000 and about $500 for installation.

Good luck.....update us !!!

 

It could be something touching the torque convertor starter gear teeth or one of the flex plate to convertor bolt coming loose.
Unbolt the inspection cover thats held by 2 10mm bolts and inspect all 8 bolts, also look for metal to metal wear.

When it grinds does it loose power ?

 

what fluid exactly did you use? Honda dw1 or some brand or off brand stuff?
any chance you saved some old fluid - a 3 ounce sample with 20 bucks to blackstone labs will tell whats floating around in the trans, clutch material, bare metal brass that used to hold the friction material on clutches when they still existed? other metals mean different things
if the problem is really bad even a sample of low miles fluid will reveal needed info

if needed that accord/oddy trans swap is gaining popularity in the last few years, nothing but good things said about it on here

 

Grinding noise is not a good sign. Kiss your trans goodbye. =]

 

Skirmich - It was a completely new transmission as any part from the old one was un-salvageable. And it came with a one year 24,000 mile warranty which has obviously expired.

3.2TLc - As I said, new reconditioned tranny with expired warranty. No CEL codes. The first time I drained the fluid the magnet had quite a buildup of particulate on it, the second time it had approx. a quarter of the first, and then the third time it had barely anything on it. And the Accord swap does sound appealing but is currently not an option at this point.

ErickUa5 - I will try to look into finding the inspection cover as you said. And no, it does not lose power when the transmission grinds.

01tl4tl - I bought the fluid from Autozone that said it was certified for use in Acuras. But the grinding noise was there well before I decided to change the fluid.

Thanks for all the info guys.

 

^^^ Proof that rebuilding or even purchasing a fully reconditioned tranny will prematurely fail ....same as the weak originals. The only answer is to either dump the car or save up your money for an "AV6" donor to replace your ailing tranny. Sorry for your luck !!!

 

there are no NEW trans for our car- all the cases are used!, you can put new parts in it- shops replace things worn past limits and wear-out parts like clutches and bearings
The assembly seems to have a great effect on operation~

 

Do as Erik says- ck the bolts for the convertor plate- When the trans has been out before= chances of any bolt being loose or broken go up dramatically

in this case finding a loose bolt is a good thing!
if that's the problem, repair and get that fake fluid out and Honda dw1 in

 

How do I locate the convertor plate? And where can I buy the Honda dw1 fluid? That's all Autozone had was the "fake" stuff.

 

acura or Honda dealers, acura may have better price, exact same stuff= DW-1
about 6-8 dollars per qt, call local Import car parts store (not regular parts store) many carry the special fluid brands from dealers

under the car where trans and engine met there is a plate with 2 small bolts
remove that and look inside! the thing with teeth is the flywheel/convertor plate, move with heavy duty screwdriver/prybar
(ck diy on engine or trans replacment for more)

Note for others- if you are losing engine oil, look inside this plate
if oil present its the engine rear main seal, 10 dollar part behind 4 hours labor to remove and reinstall trans,,that seal is behind the plate with the bolts!!

 

did you see a bunch of SHINY metal bits on the magnetic drain plug?
that would bad

 

I just finished rebuilding a transmission on a CL so I don't feel like going under the car again. So heres something that'll help you, From the Service Manual.
If you see anything falling out of here then find whats making contact.
Also look for what 01tl4tl mentioned.

 

hey 3.2/Erick: question
so the book wants you to use a socket setup to turn the crankshaft?
is it ok to do the prybar on flywheel teeth method? as was the way of my youth
or has my memory of parts placement forgotten that you have to go thru starter hole for teeth? ie: remove starter

is it just easier to use socket method on crank pulley bolt?

 

Its much easier with the socket method unless its a timing belt job.