01tl4tl

keep us posted! I didnt expect any salvation, so you guys may be on to something!!

mastini

iTrader: (6)

After cleaning both solenoids no errors came back, but delayed shifting is there. dunno what to do now.
Is it worth of changing solenoids?

Oil was brown without smell.

craigmax929

2nd failure after less than 3000 miles. I'm done. On my way to Chicago cruising on the toll road at 78 and boom. clutch pack blew. I limped home nearly 150 miles doing 50 in 4th gear. Ready to replace the trans and unload the car. Pricewise has anyone bought from H&A affiliate Gearspeed? I cant see whether they sell complete trannys. I only see parts. Should I pick up one from a local yard? I can do the swap myself. I heard about the 07 odyssey swap and there are many trannys locally at very nice prices making that swap very tempting. Anyone have a write up on the 07+ odyssey swap or can point me in the right direction? Thanks.

GranSkyline

Hey guys,

I've got a 1999 TL that my dad bought new from our closest Acura dealer in Dec '99. It only recently hit 60,000 miles and it can't be too far from 61,000mi right now. Starting around the beginning of this year, I started noticing that the transmission wouldn't shift right away anymore. It would disengage the current gear, seem to be in neutral for about 5 seconds, then engage the next gear. For a while I thought it may be because of my harsh driving style and constant use of s/s because I thought '99 TLs didn't have the transmission problem. Someone told me otherwise, and told me my mileage is right about where these Honda trannys start to go. So I'm planning to take my car in on Friday. I joined MyAcura or whatever last week and I got a complimentary recall audit/safety check coupon in my email, so that'll be the reason I take it in. When I get there I plan to see if they can, at the least, give me a goodwill price for replacing the transmission.

All I have to ask is, any advice?

01tl4tl

read the last several pages of this thread to understand the problem and some ways to help get goodwill

GranSkyline

So I'm far out from the 7-year extension, so I'll be lucky to get it replaced at no cost to me. What are my chances for more than 50% goodwill?

- 1 owner
- Early maintenance was done at the dealer
- We've had an Odyssey
- We never received a recall letter, although MyAcura says I'm part of the recall

As I said, I plan to take the car in for the complimentary check/audit, so I'm sure they'll find the problem. If they don't give a good price or any goodwill, I'll definitely give a call to Acura, though I don't know how much they'd be willing to do for a '99.

Also, will the replacement tranny be another 4-speed or are all the replacements 5-speeds?

lifterfe

I have an '03 TL Type S and had the tranny replaced a couple of years ago. It probably had 90k miles on it when it went out. It now has 117k and sometimes when I first start it up in the morning and put it in drive, it seems like it's in neutral. Rolls down the driveway and the engine revs but doesn't pull. If I put it in reverse then back to drive, it seems to be fine and drives like normal with no other issues. Fluid level is fine and was replaced around 100-105K.

Is this one of the signs of the tranny going bad again?

01tl4tl

lift --yes
start engine and let warm up 1-2 minutes- slip it into R
that time allows for lowering of line pressure and the gear engages easier when the clutches are on the way out

Gran: the recall was only to install an external oil jet spray kit to trans
Open your hood and look directly at top of trans, is there a large bolt head with ATF stamped on it? or is there a small black line running from pass to driver side ending at a thing slipped into that filler hole and held on by 1 small bolt on the side
thats the oil jet kit installed

if you were in for oil change or other service they would have done it for you then.
there was a freebie trans part of it,, IF certain heat damage was found, but yours doesnt sound like thats the problem

trans replacement is same number of gears- thats a lot of work swapping ecus and shifter gates to make a 5 fit a 4!

local shops will do a full rebuild for about 2000- 2500$,
speak directly with the service and parts managers about price matching local place - to keep a good customer running a `full acura` product~

parts dept takes the profit hit on these `goodwill` type arrangements
Start that procedure at the dealer level, not right to corp --who has phone girls that read from the great book of NO..sorry its past limits sir~

there are levels-regional acura warranty rep can make things happen- thats who the service manager calls, explains your `customer loyalty` and ask if there is anything corp will do to reduce the price they charge the dealer for the trans
good luck!!
wonder if they do anything but a basic visual on the free inspection-
those coupons are to find easy/fast money jobs - suggested mait. often based only on mileage... not, a tech looked at brake or ps fluid and said it needs a flush, been more than 3 years..or brakes are 20% remaining~~

wolfpuss

this is really scarring me, i have 30k on my rebuilt trans and recently did a "drain and fill" i used SS a few times but thats it. feels like driving with a time bomb.

wolfpuss

edit: my trans was rebuilt by an acura tech as a side job, he mentioned something about modifying the bell housing and making it better therefore making the trans last longer. is this true? he rebuilt last year using well im guessing oem stuff cluthes,solenoids etc.. well can the use of newer oem parts help the lifespan of this trans?

01tl4tl

hopefully he used `outside parts`- knowing the weak ones in the OE systm like the clutches
selenoids are often not replaced, they are external part

did he move the oil jet kit internal--it was located on top of trans
only reason I can think to mod bell housing---tranny rebuild gurus--what up with that?

wolfpuss

im hoping so about the the clutches.

Im not too sure about the oil jet kit, i dont have one on top so im praying that he moved it inside

GranSkyline

So I just got the car back from Acura.

They say that the Check Engine code was for an incorrect or irregular gear ratio. I'm going to get that checked out by going to a parts store. Obviously going to need a new transmission. When he told me this I asked him if it had anything to do with the fact that the trannys are known to be faulty, and he didn't really give me a clear answer. Something along the lines of "I can't tell yet". I had him call a rep and see if he could get me a goodwill price. He got back to me and said that Acura is willing to pay $1000, so it'd come out to something like $1,895.03. For the time being I just picked up the car. While I was at the dealer, I realized that it was part of a chain, from which we recently leased an Audi and financed a Mazda.. Any chance that could get us a larger refund, or should I just be happy with the quote he's given us? I never got the chance to ask if it included labor, but if it doesn't, my dad will tell me to just drive the car until it croaks.

narcotics

I know this is an old thread but I'm gonna let you all know what happened to this Newbe.

Today my 06" NBL TL blew it's tranny on the 410 North. No hesitation, no thump, no nothing. It just lost power and came to a slow hault.

Believe me I baby my car and never stressed it beyand any normal Canadian driving.

One thing I must add is that my Wife and I have been wondering about the cabin interior being really hot. Like the car's heater is always on if you drive with the windows up..... We believe now that the tranny has been producingall of this heat and is possibly a symptom...IMO

Any ways, we have contacted Acura and are waiting for their response.

I will keep this post alive 6 years later...

01tl4tl

actually this is for gen2 and you are gen3 but its good to know the probs continue!
04 05 were known to have essentially the same trans as 00-03
you could fall in that production range
Hopefully acura canada stands up for you
mention to the service MANAGER you belong to acurazine- largest internet gathering of acura owners on Earth!

01tl4tl

Granskyline: this thread started many years ago and still gets used to report new failures
noobs questions are already answered in here somewhere~

definetly push the brand and dealer loyalty to the dealer service MANAGER and dealer OWNER - its the dealer parts dept takes the big loss of profit on these `goodwill` deals
if you can get down to $1000-1500 with 3 year warranty, thats awesome
it will cost 2500 to rebuild it local
dont drive it till it drops if acura is offering- they can withdraw offer if not acted on soon
but always ask for more than the first offer
all they can do is say yes or no

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

03 TL-S bought at 97k with blue bolt on tranny. now 112k.

for the first time today, i noticed a hiccup in my tranny.

in SS mode, shifting from 2nd to 3rd with 1/4 throttle, big jerk and thud noise. but car was shifting fine after that. no warning lights or further issues. temperature today was low 90s with 100% humidity. this happened after 30 minutes of driving.

stupid car making me nervous. hopefully it doesnt fail before i sell it. anything i can check? tranny has not been serviced in my time with the car. is it time to service it?

01tl4tl

its worth trying a single drain and refill of part of the trans fluid
you can only get 3-3.4 qts out , it holds 7.3 total
use the new honda DW-1 fluid, cheaper at honda than acura dealer--
about 10 bucks a qt, buy 4
measure what comes out carefully so you refill exactly

jayroc76

My CEL came on a few weeks ago, so i finally took it to AZ to get the codes checked. It came back with two sets of trouble codes; P0420 and P0740.

The P0740 is defined as:
Transmission lock-up control system fault.
Probable cause:
- Low transmission fluid level
- Poor electrical connection
- Failed TCC solenoid

Based on what I've read through this particular forum, I believe that I'm starting to experience some of the symptoms of a possible tran failure coming. Where is the TCC solenoid located? Is it something I can replace (on my own)? Its a 99TL with 140K miles (orig. trans.)

craigmax929

For those that have done their own swaps at home how long did they take you? Just picked up a 2005 accord v6 tranny and ready to go. Thanks.

edthefanman

Yesterday:
01 Honda Accord (3.0V6), but this seems to be the best thread I have seen in hours of searching. Read this one for an hour so far:

Here is the problem

Engage Drive, you have to rev up the engine before it engages 1st. Same in reverse.

So: Took off the 3 bolt solenoids - 2 near the block on top with 2 strainers - strainers had some goop, cleaned them, then cleaned the bodies. Reinstalled,
Removed 6 bolt solenoid block, cleaned, reinstalled.

Changed fluid while i was at it.

Same problem persists.
Note: After reinstalling, checked resistance on the top solenoid pack (3 bolt pack), and it measured 35 Ohms. Seems they might have failed.

Any thoughts?
Ed

01tl4tl

hows it shift into 2nd and 3rd under light throttle and medium throttle--shudder?
and after 30 minutes on freeway and using streets, any thunks into 2nd 3rd when trans is warm
What did the fluid look and smell like, ever change it before? current miles?

If you let the car warm up 2 minutes before shifting to R does it go in easier?
that time reduces `line pressure` and works if the clutches are bad

stop revving it to make it catch!- let off and it should engage if the clutch packs are worn out

had any dash warning lights?
go to a parts store and ask for a code scan- its free (except California residents)

Accord Gurus--any guess?

edthefanman

No problems at all getting into second/third, under light or heavy throttle. No clunking at all.

Not sure when it was changed last. Little bit of sludge on the drain plug, but no chunks. Brownish/red fluid, not too burned, but a little off (I have had burned trans before on other cars).

Maint Required light came on, will see if she can get it to the Zone today (crap, we are in OC, Socal).

98K miles on the car. She bought it about 8K ago, and before yesterday, no problems.

edthefanman

Seems like a solenoid might not be firing. Is that a possiblity? I got 6 Ohms on the two that have the 6 bolt connection, but 35 Ohms on the 3 bolt two pack. Having put it all back together - crap crap, and not checked to see if they fire on battery command. I might try to do that tonight - see if I can get a hot wire to the solenoid while its installed.

edthefanman

BTW, this transmission is the same as your TL ones, same plugs/solenoids etc etc.

thelastaspec

maint. reqd. just means the car is due for scheduled maintenance like an oil chance.
To reset it just hold the two buttons down beside the gauges for a while as you but the key to pos 2.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwXinmGtucw

01tl4tl

the TL Mait light ONLY means oil change, and is based only on mileage since last reset of system using the trip buttons,,
starts blinking at ~6500 miles, getting more insisitant as you approach 7500 and then it stays on full time to remind you--until you reset it and get around to an oil change

brown in fluid not good
get some of the new honda dw-1 fluid and do a drain and fill or a `power cleanout` using running engine to pump out old fluid quickly.. as you dump new fluid in at the same time,,when color looks good- you are done! (vid of that on tube or here)

edthefanman

Got the codes
P1739 - 3 clutch pressure switch
P0700 - AT system Malf: (of course)

4UBE516 - that one not sure

Seems like clutches might be going, but all other shifting feels fine when you are moving

01tl4tl

each gear has its own clutch plates/disc stack/packs
once the car is up and moving its ok,,just getting them to hook up to get thru the shifts...

01tl4tl

worth cleaning or replace the 3rd gear pressure switch, aka shift selenoid
gummed up can cause probs and does occur
see diy and recent threads on subject

edthefanman

Will do.

Also got code P0730 today when it was at the shop.
Not sure what that one is, but it threw the check engine light on.

I am going to clean the switch and check resistance on it. Also will replace the filter perhaps on a 3x3 - guess now a 2x3 as i just put in new fluid yesterday.
Thanks
Ed

01tl4tl

google code or our decode sheet is in the diy list

edthefanman

This is incorrect gear ratio, guess the speed is not consistent with the trans speed/gearing

Well, going to order 2 switches, then try 2 more flushes, and will report back. I might be doing a story on a rebuild in the next week.
Thanks
Ed

01tl4tl

speed codes may be trans slipping

edthefanman

Well,
Changed 3rd switch and flushed.

when it was cold it worked better.

Then it heated up on the run before the flush and seemed to be not engaging into first or reverse again unil the rpms get close to 2K. If you hold the rpms near 1700-2000 it engages, then speeds up to normal and goes through the rest of the gears fine.

The first freeway run it threw TCS and flashing D4 and check engine light - also slipping in 4th. The second run it was fine on the freeway, light gone, no slipping, all was well - after I got it into first.

Still slipping into first and reverse.

01tl4tl

try a trans shop for more diagnosis- make sure they actually know TL trans
or stop by dealer and chat up the head tech or trans diagnostic tech at the lunch wagon

big name shops have quotas- you will need a trans by the time they get done testing it!!!!

Kris- other trans rebuilders- Is this unit toast or pressure switch issue?

hey nev!!- you know this stuff?

craigmax929

Thanks to all that have provided feedback on the compatible transmissions. I logged over 440 miles on the accord tranny dropped in Thursday and am quite impressed. I have received a couple of hard shifts going downhill. Anyone have suggestions as to why?

01tl4tl

did you use honda atf? not sure what the accord prefers

shn99TL

Hi,
I am on my original tranny now @138k (original owner 99TL).
My transmission downshifts are very hard and jerky especially in stop and go traffic and today the local Acura dealer quoted me about 5000 for replacing it.

Is there any outside location that would do the tranny change? is OEM tranny available? (dealer one is re-mftg)

Is there any way to lower the cost? Is it better to trade and get a new one?
Thanks,
NS

craigmax929

Sure did @ $9.22 a quart! Now I have some serious grinding noise in the left front area. I think its the bearing as the pads are new and it changes when turning from left to right and viceversa. And i see metal shavings in there with the sound getting progressively worse. if its not one thing its another.