Tork Specs Brake Lines
#1
WNC Real Estate Sales99TL
Thread Starter
Tork Specs Brake Lines
I'm going to be replaceing my brake lines soon. Anyone know the correct tork specs. for the lines. I like tightening things correctly.
#3
it would be pretty hard to get a torque reading on the connectors at the middle of the hose- tight--
and the lower one has a crush washer on each side of the connector to the caliper- snug plus a little there will do
Check how tight they feel before removal
NOTE Loosen connector at the top before removing the slide-in retainer clip
and the lower one has a crush washer on each side of the connector to the caliper- snug plus a little there will do
Check how tight they feel before removal
NOTE Loosen connector at the top before removing the slide-in retainer clip
#5
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NOTE:
Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign materials.
Replace parts with new ones whenever specified to do so.
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
Replace the brake hose (A) if the hose is twisted, cracked, or if it leaks.
Disconnect the brake hose from the brake line (B) using a 10 mm flare-nut wrench (C).
Remove and discard the brake hose clip (A) from the brake hose (B).
Remove the banjo bolt (C), and disconnect the brake hose from the caliper.
Remove the brake hose from the knuckle by removing the 6 mm flange bolts (D).
Install the brake hose (A) on the knuckle with 6 mm flange bolts (B) first, then connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo bolt (C) and new sealing washers (D).
Install the brake hose (A) on the upper brake hose bracket (B) with a new brake hose clip (C).
Connect the brake line (D) to the brake hose.
After installing the brake hose, bleed the brake system.
Do the following checks:
Check the brake hose and line joint for leaks, and tighten if necessary.
Check the brake hoses for interference and twisting
Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign materials.
Replace parts with new ones whenever specified to do so.
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
Replace the brake hose (A) if the hose is twisted, cracked, or if it leaks.
Disconnect the brake hose from the brake line (B) using a 10 mm flare-nut wrench (C).
Remove and discard the brake hose clip (A) from the brake hose (B).
Remove the banjo bolt (C), and disconnect the brake hose from the caliper.
Remove the brake hose from the knuckle by removing the 6 mm flange bolts (D).
Install the brake hose (A) on the knuckle with 6 mm flange bolts (B) first, then connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo bolt (C) and new sealing washers (D).
Install the brake hose (A) on the upper brake hose bracket (B) with a new brake hose clip (C).
Connect the brake line (D) to the brake hose.
After installing the brake hose, bleed the brake system.
Do the following checks:
Check the brake hose and line joint for leaks, and tighten if necessary.
Check the brake hoses for interference and twisting
#7
WNC Real Estate Sales99TL
Thread Starter
Thanks for the help:
My brakes have been very inconsistent since buying the car 3 and 1/2 years ago. The previous owner had new rotor and brake pads replaced by Acura at 30,000 miles due to the crappy stuff Honda puts on their cars and lack of Dual Piston calipers. I bought the car with 38.900 on it. It now has 100,000 and the brakes are still pretty smooth. Yes the brakes have lasted this long (70,000) I don't drive aggressively. There is still 5000 miles of pad left on the front. I've been told the brake lines tend to expand when they age resulting in some pulsating. Not interested in spending $80-100 bucks for Stainless steel lines. I have experienced pulsating many times especially in hot weather, so I'm replacing ($39,00) both front lines from Acura (shipped to me) to try to hedge off more problems in the future. Car will be 10 yrs. old in Nov. 2008. Doing Brembo Rotors with Honda pads. Total cost for Rotors/pads/lines was about $220.00 I’ll be replacing them this fall.
My brakes have been very inconsistent since buying the car 3 and 1/2 years ago. The previous owner had new rotor and brake pads replaced by Acura at 30,000 miles due to the crappy stuff Honda puts on their cars and lack of Dual Piston calipers. I bought the car with 38.900 on it. It now has 100,000 and the brakes are still pretty smooth. Yes the brakes have lasted this long (70,000) I don't drive aggressively. There is still 5000 miles of pad left on the front. I've been told the brake lines tend to expand when they age resulting in some pulsating. Not interested in spending $80-100 bucks for Stainless steel lines. I have experienced pulsating many times especially in hot weather, so I'm replacing ($39,00) both front lines from Acura (shipped to me) to try to hedge off more problems in the future. Car will be 10 yrs. old in Nov. 2008. Doing Brembo Rotors with Honda pads. Total cost for Rotors/pads/lines was about $220.00 I’ll be replacing them this fall.
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#8
new rotors should fix the pulsing- thats a lot of miles to have never even surfaced the brakes
Pads go downhill on performance with loss of material thickness- they lose abilty to shed heat- their main purpose in life~ so material left doesnt mean anything by itself- age- cracking- glazing-heat cycles all must be considered
SS lines dont expand under pressure of hard application, and heat of repeated hard braking
They do give a better pedal feel in everyday driving-
got mine off the bay for 60$ shipped!
Rubber deteriorates- the missing ozone layer is making things worse
Good pads and good rotors make all the differance- investing in great stuff pays you back in quality of driving experience and stopping power
Pads go downhill on performance with loss of material thickness- they lose abilty to shed heat- their main purpose in life~ so material left doesnt mean anything by itself- age- cracking- glazing-heat cycles all must be considered
SS lines dont expand under pressure of hard application, and heat of repeated hard braking
They do give a better pedal feel in everyday driving-
got mine off the bay for 60$ shipped!
Rubber deteriorates- the missing ozone layer is making things worse
Good pads and good rotors make all the differance- investing in great stuff pays you back in quality of driving experience and stopping power
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