Ok, here it goes. 1999 TL with 92,000 miles. Riding along at 75 mph and the TCS and maint Req'd lights come on, the TCS light goes out and the Maint Req'd light flashes and then quits. About 10 minutes later the engines shuts off. I pull over and while coasting in neutral crank it back up and then keep on trucking. About 30 miles later I pull into an Advance Auto parts store and they check the on-board computer. It shows no problems. When I start the engine, the maint Req'd light flashes 10 times.

Any thoughts?

Kevin

 

Ok did the check engine light come on?

The maint required light is a dummy light to remind you to change your oil. It means nothing more. It doesnt mean that there is something wrong. Its supposed to be reset every time you change the oil. The reset procedure is in the manual.

 

No check engine light. I just did a search on stalling and it sounds like my ignition switch needs to be replaced. When I purchased the car used a month ago, I called my local Acura dealer and had them run the vin numbers. They said there were two recalls, one ignition switch and one I cannot remember, and they said my vin showed neither recall had been done.

My only kicker now is figuring out why the TCS light is coming on. The TCS light came on last week when I was idling and rolling while in traffic, but I dismissed.

BTW, this is an awesome site for Acura owners!! I love my Acura!! I will admit I am nervous over this TCS light coming on...

 

Typically that light comes on any thime there is a Check Engine Light. But its wierd that it comes on and you dont have that.

 

If you'd been riding the brakes, or were using them severely you could techincally cause the TCS to shut down due to heat. But I've driven our TL pretty hard and never had that happen. Are you positive it was TCS?

 

Positive it was TCS... It has done this once before in traffic. The CE light comes on when u first turn the key then goes right out. Wierd....

 

An update:

I took the acura to the Carmax lot I bought it from and of course the TCS light would not come on for them and they said the transmission doesn't slip nor does the computer have any trouble codes. I talked to my local Acura dealership and they said the TCS light coming on intermittely could be a bad sensor or signs of a transmission problem. My car was sold in April of 1999, so I just barely missed the 7 year 100,000 mile warranty extension on the transmission. However, Acura said if Carmax didn't find a problem within my 30 day warranty with them, they would see what they could do for me...

Acura is replacing the ignition switch as I write under the safety recall so that should correct the stalling.

L8R,

Kevin

 

I suppose the TCS light could come on during a stall. It's probably nothing to do with TCS/ABS or the braking system in general.

 

As you guys may have seen, I am experiencing the same problem (Ignition switch). The thing is, I had mine "fixed" a couple of years ago due to the recall. Well, at the time it was replaced, I wasn't have any trouble....Now that I am, I think I'm screwed. I took it to the stealership this morning, and they said that since the recall problem was "fixed" they won't fixed again...unless they charge me out the ass for it. They said no codes are being thrown to indicate it's the ignition switch...I told they there wouldn't be any codes showing for that. What should I do?

I mean, I'm almost 100% it's the ignition switch, but since it was supposedly fixed and no codes are showing, they aren't willing to work with me.

 

There are no codes for a faulty ignition switch. I've been through the same issue with Acura.

 

Thanks, bro.

I tried explaining that to the idiot, but of course all he say was, "Umm...the only code that is showing is the insufficient EGR flow." Which of course, they said they would fix for a lovely little price of $250. HAH! I can do it for $10.

Anyway, what should I do? I think they are responsible for this.....Should I call Client Services?

 

They won't replace it again. Been there done that. Don't bother calling Acura Care. Their explanation to me was that "shit breaks"

 

Thanks, man. Guess I'll picking the one up from you.

Question, once I install the new switch, will anything need to be reprogrammed? Or is it just install it and forget it?

 

Bump

 

Plug and play

 

Nope, plug, play and drive.

 

Very nice. I'll be sending something your way either today or tomorrow. If I have questions, I'll PM you. Thanks, bro.

 

BUMP

I got a new switch, and now I need to install it. Does anyone have instructions on how to install it? Pics would really help. Actually, any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm planning on installing this today.

EH

 

I was on my way to work and a light I had never seen came one. When it came on I didn't notice any thing wrong with the car so I just drove the speed limit until I got to work. I looked up the light and it was the Malfunction Ignition Lamp light that had come one. The owners manual says its could be the fuel cap or that it could be something wrong with the emissions system or engine. It said to not drive fast. At lunch I went to my mechanic - Oh, I have a 2000 3.2 TL with 212,000 miles. The mechanic put that machine thingy on it and I thought it was going to be something wrong with the EGR but he said it was a sensor on the transmission. The code that I can remember was 07040. That is the number I saw. Is replacing that sensor expensive? Are there a lot of sensor's on the transmission? The mechanic turned to light off and said if it does not come back on that it may just be a fluke. I told him I have never seen that light and he laughed and said it was good! He said I am lucky that was my first time to see it. He said that IS the check engine light even if it says - malfunction iginition lamp. He said that that light came on and the TCS light because there are a lot of sensors and things that the engine searches for and the TCS is connected to that MIL or check engine light. He is a Honda Specialist and I trust him and since I a woman - I have to have someone fix it for me. By the way - I love the way someone said - Stealership! It sure is and I wont ever let them get their hands on my Acura.

The only light that comes on that I know of is the maintenance light and now I know it just comes on when service needs to be done.

Thanks everybody for you help.

Delores

 

Well i wouldnt call the Dealer a Stealer, their prices are high but they have alot more to pay for than small shops and can often diagnose what others cant.

As for your problem, That code is the P0740 (if tis a trans problem its a 7** code)
You will most likely want to go to Either a dealer or a trans shop. Your code Is a Torque converter code, and often times you will need to replace the trans. Its not a sensor thats bad.

 

I am sorry if I offended anyone by calling the dealership - stealership but I read it from another message on this post - I apologize. I know they do know their work but its just very expensive that's all I meant.

Yes, the code was that P0740 code I remember seeing that and the mechanic - who are Acura/Honda specialist did tell me it was a code that was for the Transmission. I thought he said it was a sensor. Anyway, I have not changed my transmission fluid in I can't even remember which in itself is the dumbest thing anyone can do. Anyway, I had the mechanic change the fluid - he said it was really bad and I needed to come back in 2 weeks to get it done again.

The light has not come back on and I hope it lasts me some time so I can save up for it. I don't know if its something they can do where they don't have to replace the whole transmission but I guess only time will tell. I have not noticed any difference on take off or while driving so I hope the transmission is okay. It does not slip or anything like that.

I will update you on what happens. Oh, I forgot. My daughter took me to the mechanic to get the transmission fluid changed and her car check engine light was on. He checked it and she did tell be before he checked that they told her at AutoZone that it was the EGR sensor. He did the thingy and he told her it was her EGR sensor too I feel very comfortable with that mechanic and don't feel like he is trying to take me for some $$. He is very honest and his prices are fair and are a little cheaper like 1/3 cheaper than the dealership. If something is 400 at teh dealership - his feel is like $275. He tells me what he is replacing - the charge for the parts are pretty close to what they are here on this site then he charges me the labor which is always cheaper than teh dealership.

Thanks for all your knowlegede and the way you all share with everyone to help us understand our acuras.

Thanks again.
Delores

 

As for your trans problem, seeing our cars are very prone to trans failures, you may want to start looking at your options. According to the manual the code you have is is the torque converter code which there isnt a sensor thats bad. Its most likely going to die on you. I had the same code and it took about 1k miles to completely fail. (sorry for the bad news)

 

I know my car has 212,000 miles, I have ran it and it may be time to get rid of it while I can. I don't want to do that but it doesn't look good. The light still has NOT come back on but I don't know if it will get to that 1K miles and die. My mechanic said a new transmission would be about $3,200. The dealership charges about $5,000 or that was what they said it was last time. The car in general is in good condition, the motor seems to be running smoothly, I change my oil on time and do regular maintenance and the car looks great inside and out.

I wonder if its worth to fix the tranny and keep the car and hope for another 100,000 miles? I have replaced things like the blower motor for the AC and the blower motor for the engine, I was going to do the timing belt & water pump next Friday - I have already done that before for maintenance.

Hmmmm, I just really didn't want another car payment. What would you guys do? Would you replace the tranny and keep it with no car payment? It sure is nice having extra $$.

Delores

 

If you really like the car and dont really want another car payment i would look into having the trans rebuilt.(i faced the similar situation) Who knows, you may get lucky and get alot more life out of the trans?? THe car itself and motor will last a lot longer.

 

Well, the light came back on yesterday - I can FEEL it doing something and know I am on my last leg. I didn't know you could rebuild a transmission. The code on the thingy was P0740 and someone said it was the converter on my transmission so can you just replace that? I will be calling the mechanic and see what he says too. I like to get 2nd opinions cause I want to know my options.

I am not driving the care - I don't have an extra $3,200 to replace it right now but my boyfriend traded me his Expedition and he will drive my car since he only works 1 mile from the house. If it goes completely out - then we can just push it home!

When I take off it feels okay but then when it shifts you can feel it kind of pulling then goes into the other gears but I can still feel it a little when it shift the others gears.

I can't trade it in now - it is worthless with out a transmission so I will have to fix it. I plan on getting it fixed, and driving it to get some use out of the $$ I put in and save for a good down payment for a new car.

I can tell you this - my motor is great - sounds good and that was the first time I had ever seen the check engine light. Acura's are good cars but as we all know and have learned - the trans are NOT good on those cars. Also, I got a recall tranny at 98,000 miles - I just met the criteria for getting one. This one last 114,000 miles - you'd think it would last longer but it's just the way it is. I guess I am lucky it lasted THAT long. Also, when the dealership changed out the transmission, I asked them what the warranty was and it was only 12,000 miles. If the new one only last 12,001 miles - then I would be in the position I am in now of having to replace it myself.

Have a great day everybody - thanks for your help and if you know anything about having a tranny rebuilt by a mechanic that would be cheaper than putting in a new one - please let me know.

Smiles

 

Its only a matter of time before it goes completely out. I wouldnt be driving it. Its a Torque Converter code, but it may bot be just that. Odds are its not. Odds are the internals have worn enough to be plugging up the TQ converter and other highe pressure lines. When that goes you usually need a rebuild