Minor setback. All is well again! Replaced the ignition switch which was about as easy as warming up a hot dog in the microwave :-)

Thanks again to everyone for their help and input. You guys are wonderful!

 

Great, glad you fixed it.
Where did you decide to get the part & how much did it cost?

 

ummmm,,its pretty easy to explode hot dogs in the nuke,,,,
so you poked holes in the switch??

 

Got the part from Auto Zone - $55.00 including tax. Duralast.
Acura dealership was $65.00 plus tax.


Any advice on purchasing a MAP sensor?

 

I have been known to set the timer for the microwave on for too long... on occassion

 

autozone has oe quality and often same maker as oe parts
probably another denso part~

 

Why? They rarely fail on acuras. If you really want one, see if the dealer is competitive. I've had problems not using oe on other makes.

 

she has a weird sudden idle surge or idle to rev limiter surge!! that tapping on the MAP sensor cures,,you figure it out!
Denso is the OE supplier on many of our parts- easy enough to read maker name on part and verify

If parts store has exact same part for less,,example: ngk spark plugs dealer $25 each
parts store $8 each--exact same part!!

 

I hadn't seen the post about the diagnosis, but it sounds reasonable to me. If the aftermarket supplier is oe or equivalent, and not higher priced than the dealer, then it should be fine. If the aftermarket supplier is the typical wells, standard ignition, airtex, cardone, etc., I'd stick with the dealer part even if it is a few bucks more. This is not to say they are all bad brands, but with some of the more finicky electronic parts they don't do well. As an example, stant and bosch are both good names, but you won't find many people here using their spark plugs or thermostats.

 

dont use bosch plugs--proven to die in 6 months -not good with TL and its super fine wire plug vs 4 electrode monsters

what I mean when I say ck aftermarket-local stores- its after you ck the actual part on your car
If its denso or similar type name- you can often get the exact same part cheaper than dealer
not off brand names--ten bucks isnt worth it at that point
autozone and kragen/oreillys seem to have a lot of OE stuff and their parts book at store often shows if what they have is from the oe supplier of the part
Nippon and Denso brands are common to find under the hood

 

I'm curious if it's the map sensor itself or something around the throttle body that's causing the sudden seesaw idle surge but when you lightly tap on or around the sensor... the idling straightens out. I cleaned the TB butterfly plate pretty good a few months ago when I was cleaning out the egr port but I'm wondering if something is randomly getting hung up. I figure I'll investigate further when the "tapping" no longer works. It's only happend 3 or 4 times over the last several years - not enough to be a [I]pita[I].

In the mean time, I was checking prices on the MAP sensor and came across a brand called Delphi which was a little more expensive than the Acura dealership but they claim to be a better direct fit OE replacement part. Delphi wants $95 - Acura wants $82 - and a web site I came across claiming OEM is $56.

Again, it's not an issue that requires immediate attention and I'm not even certain that it is specifically the map sensor that's the culprit. Just doing some widow shopping.

 

Could the idle air screw be a suspect for these symptoms?

 

The idle air controller is right in that area, fits the symptoms, and is a VERY common problem where erratic idle is concerned. Some have had luck cleaning them; sometimes the cleaning is temporary. I think fsttyms has been through this once or twice. The tps is right in that same area and is a major imput to the computer for idle speed as well. Not quite as common as the iac.

 

pz did the entire egr port cleaning recently, on a 99,--not sure if iacv was done then.
there was some discussion about that before,,like,, next time I work on the car will fix that too~

Pam did that happen?

car did wild revving idle to 5000 rpm limiter in driveway shortly after trans rebuild at private shop
Tech went under hood and said they adjusted the idle--no explanation beyond that, and it was good until this-- now with lower amount of rpm revving

Driveabilty gurus'? what do you think?

 

I seafoamed the oil crank case and the vac port about a month after the tranny overhaul. Does that count?

 

no Pam - vac port gets everything BUT the TB air plate and IACV which is located on the bottem of the TB under a cover- remove cover and round disc- clean and reinstall

Some can get to it with TB installed on engine- the rest do it while TB off during EGR port cleaning

crankcase method gets important lower end and internal parts, but not related to access of the TB

 

Then the iacv is still on my "to do" list.

 

I thought you were going to adjust the valves soon?
the intake comes off for that- so thats an oppurtune time to work on the TB again

use carb cleaner or seafoam/deep creep on the iacv parts and the TB air plate--
never hurts to clean the TB plate since its pelted with partially burnt fuel and oil vapors thru the PCV system system --all the time
(Positive Crankcase Vent system takes pressure buildup from lower crankase back to intake thru TB for reburning)

for normal `air plate service` remove the air tube from filter to TB- look inside TB- use throttle assembly to move air plate from vertical/closed to open/flat-
get the edges and backside good -wipe up runoff!!
Make sure all air tube clamps are tight when done

 

valve adjustment is on my "to do" list as well but that's a different kinda list. more like a "wish" list. i'm not going to try to do that myself. time + money = have to wait

 

cmon- you already removed the intake manifold--thats the first step of the job- so you have the skill set!!
then remove valve covers
Have tech do the valve adjust while you clean the iacv

In reality, its usually 6 or less valves need adjusting--you ck and if its on spec you move to the next set

 

I did ask Santa for a new pink ratchet set for Christmas.... wont help with the valve adjustment but at least I'll be able to get to the iacv without having to go thru my mechanic! That may or may not be a good thing!

 

The joy never ends! My cel light (and TSC light) came on yesterday. Read the code...
P0401 EGR flow insufficient. I just cleaned the EGR port a couple of months ago! Even when it was dirty, this code never came up. I will check the port but what else should I check? I also have cleaning the iacv on my to do list coz I didn't do it when cleaning the egr port and tb/plate. Also, not sure if this has anything to do with anything but I have noticed I am getting about 40 miles less on a full tank of gas vs. what I was getting on the last 3 tanks. A full tank lasts me about a week and a half. I figured it was a difference in the summer and winter blend. Even with less mileage, I'm still getting about 320 a tank.

In the mean time, I've pulled the clock fuse to reset the computer to see if the code comes back.

 

when you did the egr port cleaning:
did you remove the egr valve and clean and lube its operating arm?, and the egr port at that end of the system? all cleaned?

fuel mileage feels like an O2 sensor issue--based on your car history and mileage,
new NGK spark plugs already,, correct?

Did you do the seafoam treatment thru gas tank and vac port the 2nd time- as needed for noobs to seafoam to complete the cleaning,, after a month or 2
Could be a little crud stuck causing a false code

as you said- states are switching to winter blend fuel which doesnt combust as well = lower mileage
but 320 mixed city/freeway is decent..my wife gets about that with her lead foot..

 

EGR port cleaning - all I cleaned was the port and the butterfly area around the tb. I don't recall removing any valves.

Seafoam - no, did not go in and do the vac port a second time.

Yep - did NGK spark plugs about 2 years ago.

It's been over a 100 miles since I reset the computer (pulled the clock fuse) and the cel light hasn't come back on yet. If it persists then I will take action.

Thanks for your help!

 

egr cleaning- you did remove the entire intake manifold, correct?

 

i did.

 

pull the TB unit off- clean IACV system on bottem of TB
gasket is recent, so should be ok for reuse

on the port cleaning--you ran a wire hanger type device THRU the egr passage all the way thru the manifold to the egv valve attachment?