Stripped spark plug bolt.
#1
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Stripped spark plug bolt.
I was attempting to change my spark plugs all was going well until i got to the rear hex screw (closest to passenger side) and found it was completely stripped. any one have any idea of any way to fix this short of having to dismantle the entire back end of the engine bay. Thanks
Last edited by jd88; 02-24-2011 at 11:12 PM.
#2
hex screw?=== the coils allen head screw,,
or you cant get the actual spark plug out becasue its ..?? rounded- stuck- what?
If so, have you been able to look down into it with a mirror and ck for damage to contact part with socket?
removal of the strut cross bar allows better access to the rear plugs
or you cant get the actual spark plug out becasue its ..?? rounded- stuck- what?
If so, have you been able to look down into it with a mirror and ck for damage to contact part with socket?
removal of the strut cross bar allows better access to the rear plugs
#4
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allen is the patented name and they are the same, but yes the edges have been completely rounded (stripped) on what holds the coil in place. Is there any kind of tool or product i can use without causing further damage? Thanks
#6
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#7
Drifting
I've often used a Dremel tool to do that. Best I remember those bolts are recessed so you may or may not be able to do it without damaging the coil. Also Sears sells some tools for removing screws w/ stripped heads. Have not used those so can't comment.
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#8
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You can attempt to cut a slot in it for a flathead screw driver or attempt to use a easy out on it. You will most likely have to drill a small pilot hole in it.
#9
the tool is called an `easy-out`
sold at sears or any tool place 10-25$ for a set depending on what you get
ck harbor freight, I have a black and decker set
you drill a pilot hole, then use the special bit that has reverse threads- so tightening it into the bolt causes force to spin the bolt out
Should only be 8 foot pounds torque on the allen bolts iirc, but time can make them stuck
Spray some pb or other penetrating lube-wd-deep creep-around the bolt, seepage into threads often helps overnight
Patience and working with care are your friend on this job
get replacement bolt at hardware store or acura,must match!!
sold at sears or any tool place 10-25$ for a set depending on what you get
ck harbor freight, I have a black and decker set
you drill a pilot hole, then use the special bit that has reverse threads- so tightening it into the bolt causes force to spin the bolt out
Should only be 8 foot pounds torque on the allen bolts iirc, but time can make them stuck
Spray some pb or other penetrating lube-wd-deep creep-around the bolt, seepage into threads often helps overnight
Patience and working with care are your friend on this job
get replacement bolt at hardware store or acura,must match!!
#10
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the tool is called an `easy-out`
sold at sears or any tool place 10-25$ for a set depending on what you get
ck harbor freight, I have a black and decker set
you drill a pilot hole, then use the special bit that has reverse threads- so tightening it into the bolt causes force to spin the bolt out
Should only be 8 foot pounds torque on the allen bolts iirc, but time can make them stuck
Spray some pb or other penetrating lube-wd-deep creep-around the bolt, seepage into threads often helps overnight
Patience and working with care are your friend on this job
get replacement bolt at hardware store or acura,must match!!
sold at sears or any tool place 10-25$ for a set depending on what you get
ck harbor freight, I have a black and decker set
you drill a pilot hole, then use the special bit that has reverse threads- so tightening it into the bolt causes force to spin the bolt out
Should only be 8 foot pounds torque on the allen bolts iirc, but time can make them stuck
Spray some pb or other penetrating lube-wd-deep creep-around the bolt, seepage into threads often helps overnight
Patience and working with care are your friend on this job
get replacement bolt at hardware store or acura,must match!!
Thanks ill give that a try. Clearance is the main issue with this project. Im sure the bolt ended up this way due to someone cutting corners, the funny thing is it's only that one bolt, the rest were fine where clearance wasn't an issue. Ill check at a hardware store for a stronger replacement; the type of metal on the OEM bolts is too soft.
Last edited by jd88; 02-25-2011 at 04:56 PM.
#11
Original Owner / Oct 1998
These days I would purchase a reverse ("Left-Handed") drill bit. You have to drill the head off anyway, right?
If you are lucky the vibration from the drill will serve to loosen the screw "naturally". Hey, if not, you needed to drill a pilot hole anyway.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html
Just remember to switch your drill into REVERSE before drilling!
And, if you need any screw extractor, the straight fluted type is the most effective IMO:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_extractor
Good Luck!
If you are lucky the vibration from the drill will serve to loosen the screw "naturally". Hey, if not, you needed to drill a pilot hole anyway.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html
Just remember to switch your drill into REVERSE before drilling!
And, if you need any screw extractor, the straight fluted type is the most effective IMO:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_extractor
Good Luck!
#12
the bolt metal is not too soft--it was just too tight!
#15
Senior Moderator
If you remove the strut tower brace you give yourself quite a bit more room. You can remove the upper intake manifold as well to gain more. Grab a old blanket and lay it across your motor so you can comfortably lay on it
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