LightZero

My steering wheel shakes whenever I brake at high speeds. Anything above 50 or so. I got my tires rotated, balanced, and aligned recently so I know that's not the problem. I read that it could be the rotors and/or brake pads. Would it be both or just one? If they need to be replaced what are some good pads and rotors? I don't need super performance ones but preferably ones that are better than the stock ones.

Thanks for the help, this has been going on for a while and its getting really annoying.

Bearcat94

Same thing on my '02 TL-S.

New tires, balanced, alignment, etc. Still there.

Figured it was brake rotors. Went for service at ~65k miles. They said pads are about shot, need to change next service inerval.

Did it myself a couple weeks ago. New Rotors, Pads, Stainless Steel Brake lines - all for about the same as the dealer replacing pads and turning rotors.

Dealer Quote was ~$600 plus tax. All new parts ~$650.

- Racing Brake 1-Piece Slotted Fronts
- StopTech Slotted OE Replacment Rears
- Racing Brake ET500 Pads all around
- Racing Brake SS Brake Lines

Look at heeltoeauto.com for a "Build Your Own Brakes" package. OR check with Excelerate for Rotora. Both Mr Heel Toe and Excelerate are site vendors.


BTW - violent steering wheel shake braking from ~50 mph ALL GONE.

LightZero

Does anyone else have any more wisdom to share on the subject?

Musky-Hunter

My 99 suffered from this problem for a long time after I let a non-dealer mechanic talk me into Delco rotors. He swore they were better and cheaper than oem. I agreed and it didn't take long for the steering wheel to start vibrating. It started out as only noticable when braking at high speeds then worsened until it became noticable without braking at relatively high speeds. After several months and two return visits to have the rotors turned (both turns resulted in short term fix), I whined that I wish they had put on oem rotors. They offered to replace the Delcos with oem at no charge and the problem went away. The only reason I can't confidently tell you this was the real cause is because that same day they replaced one of my front axles becuase the boot had a tear and some of the grease had escaped. They said it was possible that this could have been the root cause of the vibration.

bibledriver

More wisdom . . .

All OEM brake setups on the TL are a bit lower end than necessary - sad but true. Mine was doing the same. Replaced rotors for upgraded rotors, just as bearcat did, pads, front and rear. Never replace one, do both (L and R) at the same time with new pads to compliment. If you upgrade they will perform better and not warp as easily. If not, they will have you back in this predicament in another year.

Results of warped rotors = new tires worn out of round = shake at highway speeds even when not braking. Tires = $. Fix your problem with better quality brakes and don't try penny pinching; it your BRAKES man. Spend an extra $

There are other things that can cause pulse in the system, but in your case, it seems to be as above.

LightZero

So I should replace (if I need to) the rotors and the pads? Not just the rotors? Also, what are the best rotors and pads? I've seen racingbrake and rotor products but which ones are better?

bibledriver

Correct. Replace pads and rotors.


I haven't ever heard of rotor products, so I cant say. Ebay? then watch out. ask around here first. I love the Racingbrake setup so far.

LightZero

Woops, I meant rotora. Sorry about that. Excelerate sells them in the market place

bibledriver

yeah, i have heard good things about them also.

fr3edom21

Hi guys,

I have a 2012 Acura TL with 90k+ files on it and I was having the exactly the same problem.
The steering wheel would shake while breaking at speeds higher of 65mph.

I changed the front rotors and pads, same problem.
I had the wheels balanced, same problem.

I then had the rear rotors turned and changed pads. lo and behold, the shake was gone!
Now my TL breaks like it was when brand new!

For some reason, the problem with the rear rotors was causing the front end to shake. How's this even possible? I don't know.

So, make sure you also look into the rear break system.

Fr3edom21,

frankjnjr

2003 TLS (1) Installed new OEM rotors and pads 1 May 2015 @ 208K miles, due to pulsation on brake application, and normal wear. (2) True front rotors and install new OEM pads again, 21 June 2016 @ 221K miles, 13K of service, due to pulsation on brake application. (3) True front rotors and install new OEM pads again, 25 May 2017 @ 229K miles, 8K of service, due to pulsation on brake application. 70% of my driving is highway. I've been a licensed driver for 58 years, my driving habits are very conservative, and i "bed in" the new pads properly after each installation. I understand that "Out of True" rotors have many potential causes, of which my driving style is not one. I can only attribute my experience to a VERY POOR QUALITY OEM PRODUCT, as there are no other identifiable brake system issues on my car.

I1100ran

I have an Issue please help if you can... I have an 2003 tl 254,559 miles... Last week my car started missing real bad after I'd left the gas station, I thought that maybe I'd put some bad fuel or low octane fuel in it. I went to the parts store and got an Octane booster... it helped a bit but, the miss fire was still very very bad; I couldn't drive the car. Today 07/01/2017 I removed and replaced my fuel pump and 6 plugs... the car is now driveable but, it still has a slight miss that is stopping the car from performing as it should... it feels as if it wants to fly but, that hesitation is holding it back. One of the plugs I pulled out looked as if it had been in the car since it left the factory... Do anyone have an idea of whats going on?

frankjnjr

Hey I1100ran, Normally most "bad" mis-fires cause (triggering) of the check engine light. Did your check engine light come on, even if briefly? If you didn't notice a check engine light, it may be wise to have the engine checked for codes anyway. Could you post pictures of all six spark plugs. For a spark plug tip to appear as if that plug has been in the engine for 254K+ miles, there has to be something unusual going on with that particular cylinder. You may also consider switching ignition coils from the cylinder in question, to one of the other cylinders, drive it a few hundred miles, than examine the condition of the two spark plugs in question. From your description of the onset of the problem, " missing real bad after I'd left the gas station" it would seem logical to suspect a faulty ignition coil.

I1100ran

Hey Frankjnjr,,,thanks for replying... I changed the fuel pump, all spark plugs, two coils and the battery; the car runs pretty good now.

frankjnjr

Probably attributable to Plugs and or Ignition coils. Glad your ride is back up to snuff.