I have a crazy vibration only at 45-55mph so I took it to the dealer and the technican drove with me and he pin pointed it was the axle but wasn`t sure which side. After putting the car on the lift he was indeed right that the passenger side axle was gone and that could have be causing it. I have a loaner in the time ebing, anyway, today the service rep called me and told me that even though they changed the right side it was still vibrating so he stated possibly it is the left side. It`s so fustrating. My car shoudln`t be driving liek this.

What else can I do to pin point and find out what the problem is on my car? What else could be casuign the shaking?\ only at those speeds too? They stated if two 2 new axles they put in dopesn`t solve the problem then they will just charge me for the labor until the pin point the problem. Help me.!!!!!

 

If they have they have the car there is nothing you can do to pinpoint it. typicaly vibrations are either axles, rims, or trans.

 

Its possible that both CV-axles wore out. How many miles do you have?
Sounds like they are doing everything they can and following the normal procedure of investgate and replace one thing.
Anything odd been happening recently, clicking noises at low speed with the wheels turned? That info helps the tech
Been doing burnouts or track days, bounce it off the curb, flew thru ther air landed backwards and skidded to a perfect parking job along the curb?

 

could also be tires uneven wear...

 

I just put a set of new wheels and tires so its definately not the rims or tires. I havemt had any of those noises. I have not tracked the car or anything. I haVE 132K but the car is in pristine conndition which was told to me by the technican. He said he cant see why else it would be doing that. They assured me they will fix it before I get it back so we will see.

 

Did it vibrate before those wheels and tires were put on?

 

Yes it did. I had 19 inch foose speedster`s on before and it did the same. Then I put my stock wheels on and it did the same and now these new wheeels so what else coudl it be????

 

Sounds like an axle or axles to me. They can be a pain in the butt to isolate. I've even installed reman axles that shook as bad as the original. It sounds like the mechanic knows what he's doing, and is on the right track.

 

How much more is the OEM original part from the dealer compared to a reman part? Do you think once he installs the new axle o nthe left side as well that it should isolate if it doesn`t work where else it would be coming from? He said he never experienced or seen a TL that shakes the way mine does. What else could he troubleshoot? He said it didn`t appear to be Tranny issues. I guess they will call me today once thye have changed the elft side and elt me know if the shaking stops completely.

 

When you said the passenger side was gone, how had it failed? Was one of the boots torn? Was it stiff, loose, noisey on turns? Anyway, my local acura dealer only lists new axles at over $700.00. Napa lists new axles at about $150.00, reman at about $75.00. Many dealers will use aftermarket parts if it's reasonably convenient.[and somewhat profitable] At this point you have to wait and see what the dealer comes up with as a diagnosis. I'm only guessing their mechanic is on the right track based on my own experience. Once you feel and diagnose an axle vibration, it's a pretty specific feeling that you're likely to remember. Now for the bad part. If it is the axle that they just put in that's still causing the vibration, they are probably not going to rush to that conclusion. I wouldn't, and I've been there. Dont forget, as others have suggested, there are other things that can mimmick axle vibration. I've seen a shifted engine cradle as well as motor mounts do it.

 

The mechanic told me he couldn`t see what else would cause it but they did tell me if after replacing the new axles and it was still vibrating then they wouldn`t charge me for the parts and puit back the others and charge me a troubleshooting fee until they find the problem. They should knwo their cars. It`s so fustrating. No clicvking noises or any noises just a shaking/vibration feel and it starts just at 45 upwards to like 55mph. That`s the price he quoted me as well. 1K for parts and labor and of course if it is the other axle then I will have to add another 1K but I will ask for a break. Hopefully ti corrects the problem. I jsut want this shit to be over with already.

 

The dealer just called and informed me that the car is done and that is was the two axles that needed replacing. Too bad now I have ot spend 2150 for them to release the car to me. He said I have no more vibrations. Good to go. Just wish I didn`t have to spend so much. Guys, if yo uever have that problem now you knwo what it is. Hopefully you won`t have to spend as much as I did.

 

Just picked it up and my problems have been resolved. No more shaking for me guys. Too bad I had to spend that much. Thnaks for all the help and support.

 

Glad the problem is fixed. Sorry, also, that it was at that expense.

 

if the shaking frequency dependes on speed BUT gets harder as you give it more gas its your axles...if the shaking goes away after 45-55mph and you have no more simptom as above, consider the wheel bearing, for which side, you should be able to feel it out.

i had to replace both of mine a month ago as i had 3/4boots torn and 1 cv joint literally came apart when i took off the axle

 

ouch! glad to see its fixed....i had the same problem, shaking got harder as you gave more gas. turned out 3/4 cv boots were torn and axles took a dump on me...infact, the inner cv on the right wheel came apart on its own once removed, it was scary, what if that had happened while you were on the road.

conclusion: $13x.xx ($65/e) at advance auto for rebuilt axles, 3hours of my time, problem fixed dealer asked $800something per axle + labor i said fuck your couch in a heartbeat!

 

I know this is sorta old, but sucks it had to happen to ya.

I'm in the same boat cbryce was in, my dilemma is which one should I replace?? At $10x.xx each from napa, I'd rather not replace both. I bought the passy side because I noticed a little rust bubbling under the paint. Is there any way to figure out which one is bad? I've got them both off the car, I compared them against the new one and the only difference is that the outer joints are "looser" in rotation than the new one. The inner joints have a slight clunking when you rotate them at maximum distance from center....

Man... I just realized that they're probably both messed up since they exhibit the same issues.

Any ideas or advice on which one I should replace first?
Thanks!