speedemon90

Basically under high speed braking my car as a whole starts to shake a bit. Pretty much only happens if im applying the brakes when im going say 70+mph. Also when im going down gradients the car will shake. I was coming down big bear a couple weeks ago, and on the way down for some time when there was a decent gradient down and i was on my brakes my car would be shaking quite a bit. My passenger noticed it too. Could this mean bad rotors? I know my tires are balanced, pads are also good i believe. I dont hear the censor going off the pad so im guessin it should be good. Can it be anything else other than the rotors? And would i have to replace all 4 rotors at the same time?

webmastir

i'm not trying to be a dick man, but given that you've been around a while, & by your post count, have you tried to do a search on this? i only ask because i see/read these threads frequently.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=shaking

pmptx

Process
Pull wheels
Inspect pads visually-replace if needed
Machine or replace rotors if warped
Bleed brakes if needed
Pretty simple

rcb2000

turn the rotors or replace them,

pads won't cause it nor will air in the line so that just a waiste of time.

sbuswell

get new rotors yours are warped. Problem solved.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

+1.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

OEM rotors=junk. They warp regularly.

speedemon90

Sorry man i forgot, havent been on here in a while haha
So if i was to go aftermarket rotors, got any ideas of a good one thats also keeps in budget. Im not looking for great performance, im kinda fine with how my car brakes right now. Also would i need to replace all rotors? How do you tell if rotors are warped visually?

totaledTL

EBC blanks.

jdjohn84

You can't visually see the warping; we are talking millimeters or less. And I wouldn't bother getting the existing ones turned or machined; they would probably just warp again in a short amount of time since the rotors would be even thinner than before. Just get new ones, and new pads as well since they are probably not wearing evenly, and aren't that expensive anyway. And only do the fronts. Rear brakes have minimal wear since all the weight moves forward upon braking.

rcb2000

if you feel the vibration in the steering wheel it's the front if you feel it through the seat then it's the rear.

If the rotors have never been turned have them turned and your vibration will be gone your pads will be fine.

The rotors warped because some yahoo didn't torque the wheels correctly when they installed them not because of the quality.

jdjohn84

Again, since the weight goes forward when braking, and you are noticing the vibration while going downhill, chances are it is the front rotors. I've never heard of rear rotors getting overheated and warped, but I guess it's possible.

Warping is due to overheating thin rotors, so they have likely already been turned. And since warped rotors are bent, it would be difficult (impossible?) to smooth out something that is already bent. If you're going to pay a mechanic to turn your rotors, your money would be better spent just buying new ones. If turning doesn't work, then you would have to pay a second time to get the new ones anyway. Just get new ones.

rcb, if the wheels weren't torquely correctly, wouldn't the entire wheel shake...all the time?

rcb2000

you are so wrong and don't have a clue, hell if I would have listened to your advise I would have pissed away 100 bucks getting new rotors instead of doing what I Did and that was turning the rotors, (total cost to me a big fat fucking Zero dollars spent), brake pulse gone end of story. As soon as you hit the brake pedal they are going to get red hot, Fuck your car can run on three lugs and the tire is not going to vibrate one bit, but it's going to warp the rotor pretty fast because of the heat and the center section of the rotor not being uniformly retained aka torqued properly, which allows it to move and expand more in one area than it does in another so it warps and you have a brake pulse..

Do what the fuck you want but spend some time in a repair shop for a living learn how to fucking fix brakes and the whole suspension before your ass starts spitting shit out your mouth. Just because your means is to replace because of a lack of knowledge doesn't mean everyone subscripes to your theory of pissing money away.

totaledTL

I had my (front) rotors turned originally when I had this problem (steering wheel shake during braking). It cured the problem- for a while. It returned in less than 1K mi. So I'm not convinced it's always the best route to take. I then replaced the rotors w/ EBCs and have no further problems in several thousand miles. Relax- and good luck.

rcb2000

sounds like who did the work didn't do a very good job and didn't back-up their work thus the return of the problem. I know I have over 5K without any issues, but then I only removed what was needed and still have thickness to spare. I would venture to say your's where turned too much and below the recommended thickness for the rotor and over torque lugs too boot thus the return of the porblem in an extrememely short period of time.

totaledTL

Negative on at least 2 points.
They were within tolerance to be machined.
The lugs were torqued by me so I know they weren't overtightenend.

There have been a lot of members who report this problem w/ OEM rotors so I don't believe it's a waste of $ to replace them w/ something else once this happens.

fsttyms1

turning rotors on these cars is a short term fix. The only real fix is to get a good set of pads and rotors.

jdjohn84

Not all of us work in repair shop where we can turn our rotors for free to see if it helps. The money is better spent on new rotors. If the rotors are warped and you turn them, you end up with one of the rotor plates (inner or outer) much thinner than it should be, which will then warp again, and bam you need new ones anyway. In most cases, rotors warp from extreme heating then cooling - not from improper torqueing of the wheels.

I still don't buy the argument that an improperly torqued wheel will work fine, but the rotor could then be damaged. Most rotors are held in place by the wheel anyway, so if torqued improperly, both would wobble. In fact, rotors often adhere to the hub due to corrosion, so they could be straight even with the wheel being loose.

No, I don't work in a shop, but I have done many brake jobs over the years, and just recently changed the rotors on my son's car due to shaking, so you shouldn't assume anything about my experience. I have also done plenty of suspension work as well - ball joints, sway bar bushings and end links, struts, front axles/cv joints. Chill dude...geez.

sbuswell

Our rotors suck, turning them will only delay the problem, which is the stock rotors themselves. Get good quality slotted rotors and your set. Our cars are heavy and the braking system in general is somewhat poorly designed. On top of new rotors get high quality pads and legend dual piston calipers and feel the night and day difference and lack of brake fade. If you want max performance without going BBK get SS lines and switch to a good quality DOT 4 fluid like Amsoil or Motul. Also bleed the shit out of your brakes until you've got nothing but fresh fluid. It makes a difference.

Luke7

Just replaced my brakes/rotors 2 weeks ago. I bought Brembo Rotors (Blanks) for $260.00 (all 4) from Tire Rack. Since the original Acura pads lasted 93,000 Miles with no Squealing problems (car stopped fine) I bought them again. Also replaced my front brake lines with OEM Acura lines. Ordered everything online - Pads and lines for $130.00. Around $400.00 bucks for this setup. Smooth stopping now! Since I don't high tail it in my car (high speed stops etc.) this setup is fine. No problems installing the new rotors except for having to use an impact screw driver to remove the screws that hold the rotors on. They started to turn off with a few hits. Cleaned and lubricated the pins, caliper contact points and the edge of the new pads. Put anti-seize lub. on all bots. Also torqued everything (bracket bolts/caliper bolts/wheel lug nuts) to the correct specs. Brakes are now nice and sooth for the first time in ages and hopefully will stay that way.
I replaced the front lines due to pulsing (acted like the rotors were really warped) in hot weather. They unscrewed easily and I have no leak problems with the new ones. Used synthetic fluid. Torqued the banjo bolt on the caliper to specs. also. It's said that the brake lines expand / in higher temperatures. I experienced this in summer hot weather.

It took awhile to get the peddle to pump up to bleed the brakes. I drained the old fluid out of the front calipers and had to do lots of pumping to get the air out of the new lines/calipers and the fresh fluid in. I also took all the old fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster before putting the new fluid in.

From what I read here this is probably the least expensive set up that works. Others here will say to buy aftermarket pads (Hawk EBC etc. ) and stainless steel lines, but this will cost more $$$. You'll hear the argument to not skip on parts. I just decided to go this route as the best setup for the money in my opinion. Again since I don't race/drive fast, I didn't feel I needed performance pads, lines and rotors. Add another hundred or 200 bucks for higher performance stuff.

AZN.M3NACE

Mine had the same problem to, and go figure, it needed new pads and rotors. So hopefully you get that fixed to. Then, when i was going 60+ my steering wheel started to vibrate and luckly enough, i got new tires (4 of them) and it stopped. =D

webmastir

easy to fix when you have the $$$$$$$$$$$

rcb2000

so where they still within spec after they where tuned?doubt it. Might have been enough material on them at the start but what matters is whats left after they are turned.

So if you had .015" left or above spec to be machined and then take .010 per side or more to clean them up, your undersize now and they need replaced ...just as an example.

TLin401

It isn't hard to replace the rotors and pads.

You can do it on a nice day in the spring.

Luke7

I did it a couple weeks ago outside in 43 degree/balmy weather. Took me about 5 hours total. I cleaned everything well/lubed the guides/replaced the front lines/took my time doing everything correctly and carefully. A nicer day would have made a difference.