Ok, 02 TL Type S w/ sequential shifting....

Only does it when I'm accelerating....between 40-60mph. Doesn't matter if I'm giving it light to moderate throttle. It wasn't there when I first bought the car used back in June 2007. Now it seems to be getting worse.

I thought it was the rims (they were getting weird dents that I couldn't explain) so I got brand new in the box Rota D2s in 18x8 ET 48. Didn't fix it.

So I've had a couple car savvy guys roll with me. Both agree when I brought up one or more ignition coil on plug "assemblies". I had a mechanic down the street from my work drive it....he said it's the inner CV joint.

How can I check if it's either one? This shake does seem to get violent and I don't want it messing other stuff up! Please help...

I was told to have my car strapped to a dyno so I could see the CV joints under load but I don't know where to go? Is there a way to check myself?

Also it seems the shake is right under my feet...so it would seem the axles could be more to blame??

 

Sounds mechanical like a CV. If it were a coil you should be getting a missfire code, or the motor would be running rough consistently.

 

i have to agree with fsttyms1, when my inner cv joint went bad (on my 93 civic) it felt like the whole front end was gonna fall off, or that i had a loose wheel and it only did it on acceleration. had almost 100k on the car, so i changed both front axles because i couldnt tell which one was causing the problem. the outers normally "click" while turning corners when they go bad, ive only noticed the "severe vibrations" when the inners go out.

 

Considering I feel it more right under my feet, could it be the driver's side axle only? I'm trying to keep this as "cheap" as possible. Are the inner joints "problematic" on these TLs? I've only got approx. 90,000 miles on it....

 

I believe it's a bad axle as well. I experienced the same thing in my previous Integra.

 

no they arent problematic, but a few have had them go bad. Mine are still original with 280k miles.

 

Trust the mechanic down the street and his driving and diagnosis-
strap it to the dyno hahahahahaha

you can get the complete axle assembly- thats a new bar with new CV joints/ bearings at each end- ready to install- NAPA had them for $75 last year
Call and ask for "CV assembly" Driver Side
If one side goes bad- the other often follows, just like headlight bulbs
but if budget is tight- go with the one first- and pay attention to the other
Often the rubber boot that covers and protects the bearing gets torn or ripped and all the grease inside leaks out- and the road dirt and grunge get pulled in and attack the exposed metal.
The CV-Constant Velocity Joint- is a ball and socket type bearing- like your hip or shoulder.
It rotates, and goes up and down- all at the same time.