Ok. I did a search and didn't find the answer I was looking for.

I need to replace my battery and want an inexpensive battery to handle the cold winters of Minnesota. How much COLD CRACKING AMP (CCA) do I need? What is the rating of the OEM battery?

Would this be good enough?

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP327186/...ductDetail.htm

I don't have any problems with the OEM battery but my dealer said it failed their testing and recommends that I replace it.

Thanks.

 

you want big cold cranking abilty- zone should be able to say which one fits your car, there are 2 that fit- one really fits and the other - taller- needs mod of battery cover

 

Im not sure if that is the right width and height but the CCA is good. The OEM batteries put out 550CCA

 

I'm going to go out on a limb here and assume that a Wal-Mart battery isn't original. My vehicle is missing the battery cover and brace (no doubt after the previous owner replaced it). It was purchased in Feb 08 and it doesn't even fit in the housing...well, I mean, it fits, but there is a LOT of wiggle room.

Should I purchase a new battery cover assembly and battery or is it ok to just use this less-than-desirable alternative for now.

 

sounds like the size battery that doesnt fit with the cover- its a little taller than stock

Make sure it is held down securely with a lower latch/bolt or upper cross bar.
Loose car batteries are very bad things! If the POS battery terminal should ever contact the hood (like in an accident or rollover) It causes havoc in the electrical system- melts wires...blows main fuse links...lots of fun!

I run without the engine or battery cover- to provide additional cooling for them, and have the pos terminal cover held on with a plastic zip tie for extra safety.
It cant hurt to do it as well as on the race car!

 

Thank you and no, it is not held down at all. The upper cross bar isn't even there. I think I'll just order a new battery cover assembly from the web site you mention all the time. It was around $10 for the cover and some bolts from what I remember. I think you said I need #21 on the diagram so it looks inexpensive enough. Then another $20 or so for the brace and accompanying bolts/screws.