Guys I am changing my plugs and I took off the passenger side rear coil pack and it looks like this:






Anyone have any tricks/suggestions for removing the remaining pieces of the pack that are presumably attached to the plug in there? Thanks

 

ummmmm....... was the plug not installed fully? so combustion gases came up and melted that coil?



but basically you best bet is a small screwdriver (like a pocket screwdriver) but longer though, and then a pair of needle nose pliers, to pick out the pieces....


it might also be worth it to also just crack the porcelain piece on the plug, if you can, and just lift it out as one piece, then you should have enough access to the metal part of the plug

 

 

I cant get any of it out and for the record I didn't instal the plugs

 

use the shop-vac to suck up loose parts BEFORE attempting to remove sparkplug
you dont want bits of plastic dropping into the cylinder

as fries also thinks: that plug is probably loose
reach in there with long needle nose pliers, maybe even a grab-it tool with the extendable fingers--if its loose all you need is to spin it out

 

were the plugs changed at some point in time,, by someone other than you?
for original plugs that would be odd to come loose

 

Yes the previous owner brought it to the Acura Dealer!!! As it is they cross-threaded the rear driver side plug and I can't get it out. This easy job turned into a nightmare. The plugs that were in there were in good shape though

 

awesome....

 

get a popsicle stick with some super glue on the end of it and pull the chunks that stick to it

 

also considering that you are coming on here to ask how to get out the old spark plug, i am assuming you probably don't have the proper tools to put thread inserts into the damaged plug holes (cross-threaded one, but also the loose one), so once you get them out, you will probably have to tow it to a shop which will be able to put the inserts for you in, so they do not just come loose again and destroy more coil packs

 

and people wonder why I suggest using a piece of vac tubing on the top of plug to lower in place and start with fingertip control-
avoids cross threading than can occur when tech hurries thru the install, jams the plug in with a socket and starts cranking,,or air tool tightening!
Or a junior skill level tech is allowed to do the job and screws it up like this

if you have the paperwork from the dealer for the work--a talk with the service manager and general manager is in order

 

i see one thing for that though....


warranty is non transferable usually (minus the new car one of course though)
so they may not be legally responsible for anything on it, because the OP was not the customer they had dealt with

 

I think he can pull the valve cover, he may have better access to the area and also after initial cleaning he can pull the plug tube and have access to the plug.

 

true fries- legal liabilty at this point is questionable- but you can hit them with the `work do so wrong as to be reported to acura and the local news`~


cmon a cross threaded plug? pretty shoddy and hard not to know happened!!
With what appears to be heat damage from combustion chamber lack of seal, how long has the car been driven like this?

 

Nothing good to report except for the fact that I was able to eject the spark plug. Since it was not coming out I attached the coil to it but didn't securethe coil and crank the engine for a second and it ejected the plug. I put in a new plug and the car ran but was still throwing codes galore. Check out the picture of the plug that was ejected.

 

wtf

 

Im sorry,, but you are saying that never made a funny noise or poor engine running?

smart thinking on the removal!! it wants out, let it out

 

Is the hole that came out of still usable?

 

Didn't start making an noise until Tuesday. I changed the plugs on Saturday. The hole is not reusable without a helicoil most likely.

 

as said before, if you don't have the proper tools, more then likely going to have it towed to a place that does have the necessary tools

also i would do that cross threaded plug hole also, since the threads will have been compromised

 

That looks really terrible =[

You might be looking at permanent compression loss...

There's no way that didn't cause a misfire CEL.

 

not really as long as you can get good threads back in there, to hold the plug in

 

I'm curious; how can you tell the plug is cross threaded if you can't get it out? I'd be more prone to think it was overtightened or stuck with combustion byproducts from being loose.
Try to find a place that uses "time sert" brand thread inserts. They are the best insert I've ever seen, easy to use correctly, and are recommended by honda/acura in some tsbs I've seen.
Good luck!

 

The tube got melted, that's a sign of the plug being crossed, no proper seal; second, I guess, it turns but can't get it out.

 

Well, it's kind of a moot point anyway, but I'm still guessing combustion crud on the threads. Reasons being: If the plug were truly cross threaded, it would be crooked, and only in about 4 or 5 turns. This would make it difficult to install the coil. Second, the plug would have most likely spit out by now. Third, it's actually pretty hard to cross thread a plug and not know it; they will usually bind up in 1 turn or so. Lastly , I've been repairing cars a long time and I've yet to encounter one. I have seen lots of loose plugs and the ensuing damage as well as other cross threaded fasteners, just never a plug.

 

At this point i might be inclined to bring it to a shop that has a borescope and see if there is any damage to the piston? Helicoils work well and it wont be any weaker than before with one, but with the heads being aluminum is there damage to the head like the plug has?

 

Sure couldn't hurt; borescopes have come down in price enough that it should be easy to find a shop with one. However, on every one I've seen, the cutting torch effect was limited to where the leak started.
Some of the thread insert manufacturers say their repair is stronger than the original threads.

 

Exactly what I was thinking. Even a couple millimeters difference can lead to compression loss.

 

normally there is a matching damage pattern on the head's as on the plug, so the reason for already recommending fixing the "threads"

and as for the "fix", you have to drill out the hole a little, so the thread insert has enough room to fit between the plug and the head (but also has "new" threads on the head to also grab onto itself, then it provides ALL new threads for the plugs themselves to grab onto




as far as repairing the threads in heads, happens all the time especially on ford tritons, when the plug blows out, or gets carbon built up around it inside the chamber, and you can't even get them out
http://www.timesert.com/html/ford_sparkplug_faq.html
edit: and as far as getting all the chips out of the cylinder from drilling and such, a little grease on the tap, gets the majority of those out, then a air blow gun gets the rest of them out of the cylinder for you

 

How do you reach the rear ones on a 2003 Acura 3.2TL? I think I can check the front ones, but can't even see the ones near the firewall. Yes, I'm a girl. CEL, VSA light and
/!\ light all came on at once and engine started rough idling. Not much acceleration, but it chugs along. 136K. Maybe the EGR valves? that looks easier to do then get to the back coils. Greg's Japanese Auto...Acura dealership...Greg's Japanese Auto...Acura dealership... Greg's...etc. HELP!