rjheiss

I replaced the coolant yesterday and noticed the rubber seal on the radiator cap appears to be slightly deformed and is allowing a very small amount of coolant to form a deposit on the upper part of the radiator neck. I was looking at a replacement from Stant and the spec says it is inended to produce 16 psi of pressure. The oem cap is marked 1.1 (I believe) which is probably "bar" or "atmospheres". Is this the same? Does 16 psi sound right?

01tl4tl

thats correct
you pretty much see .9 or 1.1 anymore
Make sure the heater is on full hot so its contents get circulated and air burped out from there- a favorite hiding place

Skirmich

Go to your Nearest Honda Dealer it will cost less than 10 bucks.
Dunno price of Acura but its always Absurdly more expensive....

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Idk man, my local dealer always offers me the cheapest price I can find. Maybe it's because they run AcuraOEMParts.com, but it's nice not having to worry.

I actually used to go next door to Honda to compare the exact part prices, and they were always within ~2 dollars.

Either way, here's a vid for OP. Just to help you better familiarize the coolant bleed process:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU

Skirmich

Well Im runnning out of Options with Acura in San Diego I keep ordering stuff from the Ebay Store from another Acura Dealer to get Cheaper small parts... Soo Im trying Honda since its like 3 blocks or so from the Acura Dealer seems to have the small stuff cheaper hehe.

My 3x3 DW1 is Coming Next, Im running a Test to see which sells them Cheaper.

01tl4tl

k7 was that vid for a TL or general info (didnt watch)

the TL has its own special multi-tasking 20 minute burping procedure
a series of 2000 rpm till fan cycles and idle till fan cycles twice etc
cap off,,, cap partially on...

Always: the heater must be on full hot so that area is part of the burping-
the heater is a mini radiator!!

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

It was a Honda. The mech was from an Acura dealership. He talks about turning the heater on and all that.

He also used pliers to keep the throttle open, revving the engine to what sounded like 2k rpm. He also waited for the fan to cycle, but I don't think he did anything about the cap being partially on or off.

01tl4tl

my 01 owner book procedure says cap is involved--but as long as all the air gets out--(recheck res and rad levels after engine cooled overnight)
the task at hand is complete--thats all I care-
we dont want to mislead noobs on a DIY- and they leave with a problem waiting to happen....

Skirmich

lol
Dont remind me the Stupid Engine Coolant drain Bolt that was a PITA to unscrew.
My hand got elastic after trying to maneuver behind the Drive Shaft freaking 30 minutes...