Quick Question on O2 Sensors
#1
Quick Question on O2 Sensors
so i think i've found the culprit of my poor gas mileage.. and i didnt realize this until i did my midmuffler removal that i was losing gas pretty damn fast (13mpg) and roughly 210 miles to a full gallon. basically as i was getting my midmuffler removed, the guy there didnt use a stand to hold my exhaust up as he was cutting it, and when he finished cutting it, my exhaust literally hung down and it ripped my o2 sensor wire out from the pin. yes, they put the pins back in and the CEL light didnt come back on after a ecu reset.. but im sure thats still what is causing my poor gas mileage. and nevermind the fact that the previous owner barely maintained his car.. so im sure im in need of a new o2 sensor anyways..
before you guys post anymore about gas mileage.. i do understand that doing the 105k service will help for better gas mileage since im at 108k (and still waiting to do my service).. and the fact that changing to new spark plugs and seafoaming will help.
but im pretty curious on whether or not my ecu is messed up.. because i remember my friend helping me tighten a bolt on my alternator and he didnt put the clip on first and basically attached nut to nut.. so my alternator has been having shorts and i heard it can basically fry your computer up and you may never be able to have any codes read or CEL come on to indicate a problem.. but if your ecu is fried.. wouldnt the car be unable to start? mine starts fine.. but i am hearing stories that burnt spots on my ecu is an indication that my ecu is partially fried.. please correct me on this..
but my real question here is.. which o2 sensors should i replace? i understand there are two. one in the back and one in front. i think the one that got pulled out was the one in the back with 4 pins i believe. correct me if im wrong!
before you guys post anymore about gas mileage.. i do understand that doing the 105k service will help for better gas mileage since im at 108k (and still waiting to do my service).. and the fact that changing to new spark plugs and seafoaming will help.
but im pretty curious on whether or not my ecu is messed up.. because i remember my friend helping me tighten a bolt on my alternator and he didnt put the clip on first and basically attached nut to nut.. so my alternator has been having shorts and i heard it can basically fry your computer up and you may never be able to have any codes read or CEL come on to indicate a problem.. but if your ecu is fried.. wouldnt the car be unable to start? mine starts fine.. but i am hearing stories that burnt spots on my ecu is an indication that my ecu is partially fried.. please correct me on this..
but my real question here is.. which o2 sensors should i replace? i understand there are two. one in the back and one in front. i think the one that got pulled out was the one in the back with 4 pins i believe. correct me if im wrong!
#2
look at it!!
go back to muffler shop and have them put it in the air
actually they owe you an O2 sensor if they ripped the wires from it
buy DENSO brand- its stock and direct plug and play
in normal `wear out` the front goes first, but in damage I would suspect rear to be easier to hurt
go back to muffler shop and have them put it in the air
actually they owe you an O2 sensor if they ripped the wires from it
buy DENSO brand- its stock and direct plug and play
in normal `wear out` the front goes first, but in damage I would suspect rear to be easier to hurt
#3
stopped by a parts store for code reading yet?
#5
yeah.. im not getting a CEL.. and i think its cause my friend basically shorted my ecu when he bolted nut to nut.. im sure you guys know there's a clip you hook on to a stud on the alternator.. then comes another nut after that .. but my friend forgot to put the clip in first.. he basically left it out.. and i think thats what messed my ecu up.. so if my ecu is partially fried.. then of course i wouldnt get any CEL .. and no CEL = no codes to read.
#6
no codes and no cel are different things- you can have codes without a warning light
Does the cel light self test at start ok?
Does the cel light self test at start ok?
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#8
after it starts it stays on? thats not normal
#10
Racer
iTrader: (3)
That's normal. CEL is suppose to come on and go out. It comes on to show you that the bulb isn't burned out and that it is testing your system for any faults. If there are no faults, it goes off. If something is wrong, it will stay on. If you put your key in and directly start your car (instead of going to acc first), it will also come on and disappear if nothing is wrong with your car (as far as what the system can detect).
If you mostly drive in the city and drive fairly hard, 13 mpg is normal. You should try changing your spark plugs since you never changed them and since that is a cheap service when compared to the tb/wp service. I would seafoam before changing plugs also. Some say that it doesn't damage your plugs but I think it does. My plugs were fairly clean, but after I seafoamed, they were all black.
If you mostly drive in the city and drive fairly hard, 13 mpg is normal. You should try changing your spark plugs since you never changed them and since that is a cheap service when compared to the tb/wp service. I would seafoam before changing plugs also. Some say that it doesn't damage your plugs but I think it does. My plugs were fairly clean, but after I seafoamed, they were all black.
#11
residue after seafoam generally comes from poor after drive to blow out the crud
or poor procedure
It wont damage new plugs, or plugs with less than,, lets say 90kmiles
At that point the spark is weaker and combined with poor procedure will result in loading up the plugs
on new plugs it should all burn right off and pass thru the exhaust
Heat is seafoams friend for best results
for those who dont want to do via vac port
simply add 1 can to half tank of gas
repeat on another half tank,,that gets more than what the vac port does
and should be used on at least 1 half tank for max results of cleaning everything from fuel lines to intake valves and pistons by everyone doing vac port method
or poor procedure
It wont damage new plugs, or plugs with less than,, lets say 90kmiles
At that point the spark is weaker and combined with poor procedure will result in loading up the plugs
on new plugs it should all burn right off and pass thru the exhaust
Heat is seafoams friend for best results
for those who dont want to do via vac port
simply add 1 can to half tank of gas
repeat on another half tank,,that gets more than what the vac port does
and should be used on at least 1 half tank for max results of cleaning everything from fuel lines to intake valves and pistons by everyone doing vac port method
#13
my spark plugs are fairly new i would think.. ive had them for about 19k miles now. so with about that much miles on there, should i attempt seafoam? im kinda on a budget right now so im trying not to spend on plugs.
Last edited by xtremex626; 12-22-2010 at 12:37 PM.
#15
i believe i do but theyre all scattered everywhere.. and the old set were shit.. literally shit. bought it off the dealer when they were shit.. heck i had a CEL the next day after i got the car. so is it a go or no go with 19k miles on my current plugs?
#17
seafoam is FINE on plugs with ONLY 20kmiles on them!!
Its ONLY a problem with 100kmile plugs and a poor afterdrive- so they get loaded up with carbon
your plugs are plenty hot firing, and as long as you come close to following the instructions--all will be well
Throw a can in half a tank of gas
do half can Deep creep spray version seafoam thru TB throat to clean air plate and pivot hinge, and some thru the master vac port at TB
Lube the throttle return springs with deep creep while you are there
Enjoy the results
Its ONLY a problem with 100kmile plugs and a poor afterdrive- so they get loaded up with carbon
your plugs are plenty hot firing, and as long as you come close to following the instructions--all will be well
Throw a can in half a tank of gas
do half can Deep creep spray version seafoam thru TB throat to clean air plate and pivot hinge, and some thru the master vac port at TB
Lube the throttle return springs with deep creep while you are there
Enjoy the results
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