Quick Question on O2 Sensors

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Old 12-20-2010, 06:27 AM
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Quick Question on O2 Sensors

so i think i've found the culprit of my poor gas mileage.. and i didnt realize this until i did my midmuffler removal that i was losing gas pretty damn fast (13mpg) and roughly 210 miles to a full gallon. basically as i was getting my midmuffler removed, the guy there didnt use a stand to hold my exhaust up as he was cutting it, and when he finished cutting it, my exhaust literally hung down and it ripped my o2 sensor wire out from the pin. yes, they put the pins back in and the CEL light didnt come back on after a ecu reset.. but im sure thats still what is causing my poor gas mileage. and nevermind the fact that the previous owner barely maintained his car.. so im sure im in need of a new o2 sensor anyways..

before you guys post anymore about gas mileage.. i do understand that doing the 105k service will help for better gas mileage since im at 108k (and still waiting to do my service).. and the fact that changing to new spark plugs and seafoaming will help.

but im pretty curious on whether or not my ecu is messed up.. because i remember my friend helping me tighten a bolt on my alternator and he didnt put the clip on first and basically attached nut to nut.. so my alternator has been having shorts and i heard it can basically fry your computer up and you may never be able to have any codes read or CEL come on to indicate a problem.. but if your ecu is fried.. wouldnt the car be unable to start? mine starts fine.. but i am hearing stories that burnt spots on my ecu is an indication that my ecu is partially fried.. please correct me on this..

but my real question here is.. which o2 sensors should i replace? i understand there are two. one in the back and one in front. i think the one that got pulled out was the one in the back with 4 pins i believe. correct me if im wrong!
Old 12-20-2010, 12:02 PM
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look at it!!
go back to muffler shop and have them put it in the air
actually they owe you an O2 sensor if they ripped the wires from it
buy DENSO brand- its stock and direct plug and play

in normal `wear out` the front goes first, but in damage I would suspect rear to be easier to hurt
Old 12-20-2010, 12:03 PM
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stopped by a parts store for code reading yet?
Old 12-20-2010, 04:34 PM
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I am surprised you are not getting a code if you are loosing that much gas per mile; even if it was resetted, the code should come back again.
Old 12-20-2010, 04:58 PM
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yeah.. im not getting a CEL.. and i think its cause my friend basically shorted my ecu when he bolted nut to nut.. im sure you guys know there's a clip you hook on to a stud on the alternator.. then comes another nut after that .. but my friend forgot to put the clip in first.. he basically left it out.. and i think thats what messed my ecu up.. so if my ecu is partially fried.. then of course i wouldnt get any CEL .. and no CEL = no codes to read.
Old 12-20-2010, 05:20 PM
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no codes and no cel are different things- you can have codes without a warning light
Does the cel light self test at start ok?
Old 12-20-2010, 07:08 PM
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^ yeah i believe so. when i put the key to on.. the cel stays on then dissapears after 10 seconds or so. is this considered normal?
Old 12-20-2010, 07:12 PM
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after it starts it stays on? thats not normal
Old 12-20-2010, 07:16 PM
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when i put the key to on, cel stays on for about 10 seconds then disspears.. after i start the car, cel doesnt pop up. this should indicate my car is fine.. but i dont think so =/ and i did have my car read and no codes came up.. weird
Old 12-21-2010, 12:54 AM
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That's normal. CEL is suppose to come on and go out. It comes on to show you that the bulb isn't burned out and that it is testing your system for any faults. If there are no faults, it goes off. If something is wrong, it will stay on. If you put your key in and directly start your car (instead of going to acc first), it will also come on and disappear if nothing is wrong with your car (as far as what the system can detect).

If you mostly drive in the city and drive fairly hard, 13 mpg is normal. You should try changing your spark plugs since you never changed them and since that is a cheap service when compared to the tb/wp service. I would seafoam before changing plugs also. Some say that it doesn't damage your plugs but I think it does. My plugs were fairly clean, but after I seafoamed, they were all black.
Old 12-21-2010, 11:56 AM
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residue after seafoam generally comes from poor after drive to blow out the crud
or poor procedure

It wont damage new plugs, or plugs with less than,, lets say 90kmiles
At that point the spark is weaker and combined with poor procedure will result in loading up the plugs

on new plugs it should all burn right off and pass thru the exhaust
Heat is seafoams friend for best results

for those who dont want to do via vac port
simply add 1 can to half tank of gas
repeat on another half tank,,that gets more than what the vac port does
and should be used on at least 1 half tank for max results of cleaning everything from fuel lines to intake valves and pistons by everyone doing vac port method
Old 12-21-2010, 01:39 PM
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^what he said
Old 12-22-2010, 12:34 PM
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my spark plugs are fairly new i would think.. ive had them for about 19k miles now. so with about that much miles on there, should i attempt seafoam? im kinda on a budget right now so im trying not to spend on plugs.

Last edited by xtremex626; 12-22-2010 at 12:37 PM.
Old 12-22-2010, 01:31 PM
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do you have an old set?
Old 12-23-2010, 09:28 AM
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i believe i do but theyre all scattered everywhere.. and the old set were shit.. literally shit. bought it off the dealer when they were shit.. heck i had a CEL the next day after i got the car. so is it a go or no go with 19k miles on my current plugs?
Old 12-23-2010, 10:10 AM
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Worse case your spending another $40 on plugs.
Old 12-23-2010, 12:58 PM
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seafoam is FINE on plugs with ONLY 20kmiles on them!!
Its ONLY a problem with 100kmile plugs and a poor afterdrive- so they get loaded up with carbon

your plugs are plenty hot firing, and as long as you come close to following the instructions--all will be well
Throw a can in half a tank of gas
do half can Deep creep spray version seafoam thru TB throat to clean air plate and pivot hinge, and some thru the master vac port at TB

Lube the throttle return springs with deep creep while you are there

Enjoy the results
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