I have a 2002 Acura TL with 204,500 miles on it. It runs just like new. Except for when I get into my car drive for a bit, turn it off for 10-30 mins, come back and it won't start. Everything will start turning but it will not catch or start up until the temperature gauge is back around cold (along with me pressing on the gas pedal). Now the car does not overheat, and depending on how far I've driven can take an hour or more to cool down and then the car will start right up with no problems. PLEASE HELP!!!! for I don't know what else to do.

 

is any of the lights on (lower left area of guages)?

is the car showing any codes?

I am not a expert but have you cleaned your egr ports? Good luck!

 

Could be one of the relays in the starting circuit is on the edge ?

(starter-cut relay or pgm-fi main relay)

 

have battery/charging system tested at parts store
they can ck for any hidden fault/trouble codes too
no dash warning/ ck engine lights?

spark plug age? correct ngk plugs if changed?
cleaned egr system inside manifold?
done the timing belt for a 2nd time yet?
run seafoam or bg thru gas tank yet?
always run 91 octane or higher?

does temp come up in a few minutes to just below half and stay there while driving/engine running?,,should not go above that!

 

@tlmane03: I do have a code for my o2 sensor but this problem has been happening before that code came up. EGR ports; what are those?

 

Yeah the temp gauge rises about two or three lines below half way and never goes any higher. Like I said car doesn't overheat. I had a tune up about a year ago spark plugs are good for another 100,000 miles. One shop is telling me a fuel filter and possibly a fuel pump but I see that these two components come as one part.

 

Have the shop check the fuel pressure along with the relays.

 

@3.2TLc: Ok will do. Thanks. Now I can start in some direction because I am clueless to car maintenance. Except for the normal basic stuff.

 

Well everything seems to be working properly. But One mechanic thinks it could be a coolant temperature sensor that could be causing the problem.....

 

I had a tune up and all of that was done about a year ago.

 

Everything seems to working properly; one mechanic thinks it could be a coolant temperature sensor.

 

Spark plugs are brand new (1 year old) and good for 100,000 miles (double laser platinum) I don't know about the egr system, timing belt is fine, always used 93 octane fuel and did seafoam once.

 

Probably not; i had a code for an o2 sensor; but I'm going to get that re-checked to make sure. EGR ports (I'm clueless to what or where those are)

 

Check the "DIY" sticky for EGR passageways cleaning. There have been many previous threads available by searching on the EGR system....which is a common and easy DIY fix.

 

I'm thinking it could be something like that. As I stated before my car will not hot restart; not literally "hot" but normal operating temperature restart for about an hour or so.

 

Ya know that electronics can get finicky as they age and are exposed to the extremes of the elements which they are exposed to. Could be a relay getting worn out. Poor contact or weak soldering ? Sometimes the gremlins play hide and seek !

 

Lol. Yeah and I feel its something simple as well. I just didn't want to give Acura $120 to diagnose it for me

 

Okay, I went to AAMCO yesterday and got a scan and it said that my catalytic converter was acting up. As the mechanic explained how that part works with my car that sounds likely to be the culprit.

 

Now, my question is how much is 'too much' to pay to get this converter replaced??

 

Whoa! How do you know the cat converter is toast? A scan code won't tell you that. Codes only suggest a location where there is a "diagnostic" failure. That code could arise from another condition.

 

The mechanic at AAMCO said that it was reading some code for the converter. So I have to take it back to him to see if its really that.

 

OMG...I wouldn't go to AAMCO even if the labor was free. You are just asking for a world of trouble. Find yourself a good mechanic in your area who specializes in Hondas. There should be several.

 

OK! But aren't they going to do the same scan??

 

More like scam! Research them. A scan is not a technical diagnosis of the problem. A baby can push a button to do a scan. Personally, I would take it to a shop experienced with Hondas. It's your call.

 

Okay. I found another place that was recommended by a mechanic that's been working on my car. In Baltimore every one has an Acura (LOL) and I'm taking it to them next week to further diagnose.

 

Hey Drlcs2b, gotta say I fully agree with Victus1 on AAMCO !

If a code is coming up for an O2 sensor, it may possibly be something other than the cat that's causing the sensor to read an overly rich or lean condition.

But there are several other things at 200K that may need some basic attention. These TL's tend to get gunked up with their intakes, TB, EGR passageways, fuel injectors...... and etc.

Basic PM servicing and cleaning will help eliminate many common issues before dropping big bucks into a new convertor.

 

I'm starting to think that I did not have a code for an O2 sensor. I think that mechanic had a lot of cars to try to remember about. But I'm getting it fully looked into on Friday.

 

Is your CEL light presently on ?.....if so, take it to a local auto parts store for a code check which they normally will provide as a free service. If there is a code, tell us and we may be able to better help you.

It appears as though you're in need of a reputable local mechanic instead of places like AAMCO. A shop that specializes with Hondas or imports will find the problem. Too bad that you or a friend were more mechanically inclined, as it would save labor expenses. Good luck !

 

I'll try that route

 

Ok, so I have another question. I got 272 miles on one tank of gas with a mixture of city and highway driving. Is that about average or normal for the TL.

 

Last time I checked my 01 tl fuel mileage I was getting about 25 mpg. Best way to know for sure is reset your trip meter at fillup then next time you fill up divide your miles driven by gallons you filled up on that will tell you the mpg, for that tank anyway.

 

I got it confirmed that the converter is the culprit. The mechanics tapped on the converter and first said that it did not sound clogged but after pressing on the gas and them standing behind my car and feeling the decreased exhaust output they concluded it was the converter.

 

I got it confirmed that the converter is the culprit. The mechanics tapped on the converter and first said that it did not sound clogged but after pressing on the gas and them standing behind my car and feeling the decreased exhaust output they concluded it was the converter.

 

got it confirmed that the converter is the culprit. The mechanics tapped on the converter and first said that it did not sound clogged but after pressing on the gas and them standing behind my car and feeling the decreased exhaust output they concluded it was the converter.

 

^^Sounds real scientific. If your converter is restricted you'd be more likely to notice it at wide open throttle acceleration, under load at high rpm. More likely still, you wouldn't even be able to get to high rpms. I think you said you had a converter code at some point. Restricted converters usually don't set a code, and conversely, converters that do set a code typically aren't at all restricted. How hot is it where you live? It sounds to me like you might have the hot soak fuel boiling problem. If the guy(s) who thought it might be a temp sensor is also the one diagnosing the converter, keep looking for a better mechanic.

 

Hey Drlcs, was the last mechanics who confirmed the problem as being a bad cat......
the "Baltimore mechanics where everybody who drives an Acura goes to" ?????
Was the exhaust pipe system disconnected and the cat physically inspected ? Did they test drive the car ?

I agree with Tler trash that your car would be running poorly under load and feel sluggish at higher rpm's versus what you originally described the car as "running like new".

 

Nope I went to a totally different mechanic, one who specializes in muffler and exhaust systems.

 

I have noticed a decrease in acceleration; and its not my transmission that is working fine.

 

So its not my converter because I drove it for miles and miles the other day, and since it was dark out I turned my car off, climbed underneath and the it was red or even a hint of reading (as it would show being clogged). But now I've gotten it to the point where if I start it right after and press the accelerator to the floor the engine will catch and not die out. So what does this sound like????

 

*Wasn't red