Overheating...
#1
Overheating...
I have read threads about overheating and I can't seem to find the probem. Had timing belt and water pump replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Coolant new. Radiator cap new.
I have a 2000 TL and I am sure its probably the coolant temp sensor. Some threads say the temp sensor is on the radiator. I can find it to save my life. Can I see the sensor from on top or do I have to look under the car to get a better look? Is the sensor on the passenger or drivers side?
Help me please. Its about to get hot and I want to be prepared for the summer. I am in Georgia and these summers are brutal.
I have a 2000 TL and I am sure its probably the coolant temp sensor. Some threads say the temp sensor is on the radiator. I can find it to save my life. Can I see the sensor from on top or do I have to look under the car to get a better look? Is the sensor on the passenger or drivers side?
Help me please. Its about to get hot and I want to be prepared for the summer. I am in Georgia and these summers are brutal.
#2
describe when it ovrheats- and NEVER let it get to redline
dont drive it if thats the case now
Fan sensor bottem corner of radiator- passenger side, operates driver side cooling fan,
ac controls pass side fan and in extreme temp, iirc the pass fan backs up the primary
Check for an air leak- like a hose clamp not tight has allowed air buble which now is tricking the thermostat
Burp the system exactly per the book - then have it pressure tested
Even new parts fail but operator error has to be checked
dont drive it if thats the case now
Fan sensor bottem corner of radiator- passenger side, operates driver side cooling fan,
ac controls pass side fan and in extreme temp, iirc the pass fan backs up the primary
Check for an air leak- like a hose clamp not tight has allowed air buble which now is tricking the thermostat
Burp the system exactly per the book - then have it pressure tested
Even new parts fail but operator error has to be checked
#3
describe when it ovrheats- and NEVER let it get to redline
dont drive it if thats the case now
Fan sensor bottem corner of radiator- passenger side, operates driver side cooling fan,
ac controls pass side fan and in extreme temp, iirc the pass fan backs up the primary
Check for an air leak- like a hose clamp not tight has allowed air buble which now is tricking the thermostat
Burp the system exactly per the book - then have it pressure tested
Even new parts fail but operator error has to be checked
dont drive it if thats the case now
Fan sensor bottem corner of radiator- passenger side, operates driver side cooling fan,
ac controls pass side fan and in extreme temp, iirc the pass fan backs up the primary
Check for an air leak- like a hose clamp not tight has allowed air buble which now is tricking the thermostat
Burp the system exactly per the book - then have it pressure tested
Even new parts fail but operator error has to be checked
#4
I was a tech for many many years- dealer and private shops, grew up with cars bikes boats and airplanes
For TL specific stuff I have read of most of the g2 threads so I know what to watch for on my own car- and read advice that may help others
oh yea- I read the owner book too!!!
For TL specific stuff I have read of most of the g2 threads so I know what to watch for on my own car- and read advice that may help others
oh yea- I read the owner book too!!!
#5
I was a tech for many many years- dealer and private shops, grew up with cars bikes boats and airplanes
For TL specific stuff I have read of most of the g2 threads so I know what to watch for on my own car- and read advice that may help others
oh yea- I read the owner book too!!!
For TL specific stuff I have read of most of the g2 threads so I know what to watch for on my own car- and read advice that may help others
oh yea- I read the owner book too!!!
#6
The Dumb One
iTrader: (1)
my car overheated ONCE.. lol explain that.
never went over half temp. again.
avoid using too much AC untill you find the problem.. oh i remember the days of turning the heat all the way up when the accord use to boil for no reason
never went over half temp. again.
avoid using too much AC untill you find the problem.. oh i remember the days of turning the heat all the way up when the accord use to boil for no reason
![Huh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/huh.gif)
#7
the `turn heater on trick` is helpful in an emergency- the heater core holds some cold coolant- dumping it into the system and adding the extra `radiator` of the heater core to the total flow will reduce the temp
A one time overheat on a different car:- probably crud in the radiator and you only pushed it exactly right once to get it to overheat- a while later it would blow a head gasket
They dont pay the Mods!- thats why I dont do it- my message box is full enough without that headache
A one time overheat on a different car:- probably crud in the radiator and you only pushed it exactly right once to get it to overheat- a while later it would blow a head gasket
They dont pay the Mods!- thats why I dont do it- my message box is full enough without that headache
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#8
describe when it ovrheats- and NEVER let it get to redline
dont drive it if thats the case now
Fan sensor bottem corner of radiator- passenger side, operates driver side cooling fan,
ac controls pass side fan and in extreme temp, iirc the pass fan backs up the primary
Check for an air leak- like a hose clamp not tight has allowed air buble which now is tricking the thermostat
Burp the system exactly per the book - then have it pressure tested
Even new parts fail but operator error has to be checked
dont drive it if thats the case now
Fan sensor bottem corner of radiator- passenger side, operates driver side cooling fan,
ac controls pass side fan and in extreme temp, iirc the pass fan backs up the primary
Check for an air leak- like a hose clamp not tight has allowed air buble which now is tricking the thermostat
Burp the system exactly per the book - then have it pressure tested
Even new parts fail but operator error has to be checked
Yeah. The driver side doesn't come on at all. Tempature will rise quickly. I did all the necessary checks. I took it back to the Acura shop and they checked everything they did. They even made sure there was no air in the system. So I am thinking its the sensor as well. I even went to the Acura website to find the sensor. They don't even have a diagram. They just have it listed as sensor and thats it.
I will let you know what I do. I may even take pics. Hey 01tl4l, what year is your TL. I take it from your username you have a 2001 TL. Have you changed a sensor in yours?
#9
Instructor
Join Date: Nov 2000
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Its most likely the thermostat in the engine bay. Its a pretty cheap part around 20-40 bucks and pretty easy to replace. Controls the coolant, your old one might be stuck half way closed.
#10
bringin lead
Yeah. The driver side doesn't come on at all. Tempature will rise quickly. I did all the necessary checks. I took it back to the Acura shop and they checked everything they did. They even made sure there was no air in the system. So I am thinking its the sensor as well. I even went to the Acura website to find the sensor. They don't even have a diagram. They just have it listed as sensor and thats it.
I will let you know what I do. I may even take pics. Hey 01tl4l, what year is your TL. I take it from your username you have a 2001 TL. Have you changed a sensor in yours?
I will let you know what I do. I may even take pics. Hey 01tl4l, what year is your TL. I take it from your username you have a 2001 TL. Have you changed a sensor in yours?
https://acurazine.com/forums/groups/atl-17/
#11
Do you have the proper coolant/water ratio ? Also, if the system has been purged of air....it may be that the T-stat is hanging up. Honda uses a specific 2 stage style type of thermostat, so if it's the original....it may be causing problems.
#13
Found this to be helpful. It is #15 on this diagram. On MY 00tl, it is on the thermostat housing, not on the radiator. I sure did look for it for a while though. Hope this helps.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
#16
I hope this thread keeps going til we find all the answers.
1> Radiator fan wasn't working, only an issue on hot days in traffic. Started with replacing coolant temp sensor, seemed popular. BTW, took awhile to find, bcuz mines on the thermo housing, not the radiator. Nothing.
2>Next was the fan itself since it was getting power. Replaced it, fan now works, righteous. That should solve the heat problem, since now both fans work. BUT radiator fan ONLY comes on when the AC fan kicks on. I've been reading the rad fan should also work independently of the AC fan, but no.
3>Next, replaced the rad fan switch, no change.
4> Relay, you say? Swapped out the relay, no change. WTF?!!
I miss my 66 Mustangs, things were so much simpler!! Of course, I didn't have that pesky AC to mess with.
Any MORE thoughts?? Although I'm thrilled both fans work so I shouldn't have a heat problem, I'd prefer it worked the way it's supposed to. Especially on those hot days (we get a few of those in Tampa) where a little of that "key off" fanning might help. That fan also blows air all over the new tranny, which I figure couldn't hurt.
So, guys, gals, and guru's, what's next?
1> Radiator fan wasn't working, only an issue on hot days in traffic. Started with replacing coolant temp sensor, seemed popular. BTW, took awhile to find, bcuz mines on the thermo housing, not the radiator. Nothing.
2>Next was the fan itself since it was getting power. Replaced it, fan now works, righteous. That should solve the heat problem, since now both fans work. BUT radiator fan ONLY comes on when the AC fan kicks on. I've been reading the rad fan should also work independently of the AC fan, but no.
3>Next, replaced the rad fan switch, no change.
4> Relay, you say? Swapped out the relay, no change. WTF?!!
I miss my 66 Mustangs, things were so much simpler!! Of course, I didn't have that pesky AC to mess with.
Any MORE thoughts?? Although I'm thrilled both fans work so I shouldn't have a heat problem, I'd prefer it worked the way it's supposed to. Especially on those hot days (we get a few of those in Tampa) where a little of that "key off" fanning might help. That fan also blows air all over the new tranny, which I figure couldn't hurt.
So, guys, gals, and guru's, what's next?
#18
What is year is your TL?
I hope this thread keeps going til we find all the answers.
1> Radiator fan wasn't working, only an issue on hot days in traffic. Started with replacing coolant temp sensor, seemed popular. BTW, took awhile to find, bcuz mines on the thermo housing, not the radiator. Nothing.
2>Next was the fan itself since it was getting power. Replaced it, fan now works, righteous. That should solve the heat problem, since now both fans work. BUT radiator fan ONLY comes on when the AC fan kicks on. I've been reading the rad fan should also work independently of the AC fan, but no.
3>Next, replaced the rad fan switch, no change.
4> Relay, you say? Swapped out the relay, no change. WTF?!!
I miss my 66 Mustangs, things were so much simpler!! Of course, I didn't have that pesky AC to mess with.
Any MORE thoughts?? Although I'm thrilled both fans work so I shouldn't have a heat problem, I'd prefer it worked the way it's supposed to. Especially on those hot days (we get a few of those in Tampa) where a little of that "key off" fanning might help. That fan also blows air all over the new tranny, which I figure couldn't hurt.
So, guys, gals, and guru's, what's next?
1> Radiator fan wasn't working, only an issue on hot days in traffic. Started with replacing coolant temp sensor, seemed popular. BTW, took awhile to find, bcuz mines on the thermo housing, not the radiator. Nothing.
2>Next was the fan itself since it was getting power. Replaced it, fan now works, righteous. That should solve the heat problem, since now both fans work. BUT radiator fan ONLY comes on when the AC fan kicks on. I've been reading the rad fan should also work independently of the AC fan, but no.
3>Next, replaced the rad fan switch, no change.
4> Relay, you say? Swapped out the relay, no change. WTF?!!
I miss my 66 Mustangs, things were so much simpler!! Of course, I didn't have that pesky AC to mess with.
Any MORE thoughts?? Although I'm thrilled both fans work so I shouldn't have a heat problem, I'd prefer it worked the way it's supposed to. Especially on those hot days (we get a few of those in Tampa) where a little of that "key off" fanning might help. That fan also blows air all over the new tranny, which I figure couldn't hurt.
So, guys, gals, and guru's, what's next?
#19
I have a 2000 TL ya'll. I have been reading that the sensor is on or close to the radiator. I can't find it to say my life. Do you have to pull the radiator out? Can you see it from under the car? I can't find it. Can you help?
the `turn heater on trick` is helpful in an emergency- the heater core holds some cold coolant- dumping it into the system and adding the extra `radiator` of the heater core to the total flow will reduce the temp
A one time overheat on a different car:- probably crud in the radiator and you only pushed it exactly right once to get it to overheat- a while later it would blow a head gasket
They dont pay the Mods!- thats why I dont do it- my message box is full enough without that headache
A one time overheat on a different car:- probably crud in the radiator and you only pushed it exactly right once to get it to overheat- a while later it would blow a head gasket
They dont pay the Mods!- thats why I dont do it- my message box is full enough without that headache
#20
#21
![Cool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon6.gif)
Getting the driver side fan to work seems to have solved my problem. Hopefully, from the earlier posts, you found the sensor and/or the switch. On my 2000TL, they are BOTH near the thermostat, NOT on the radiator. My fans now both work, but ALWAYS together, either when hot or when the AC is on. This is certainly better than overheating until we figure it out.
#22
Hey thanks for answering my post. I noticed on the Acura parts website, the sensors were on the thermostat housing and I was getting confused about the location. I was up and down that radiator trying to find those sensors and I was like, "Dang I can't find them for nothing".
Getting the driver side fan to work seems to have solved my problem. Hopefully, from the earlier posts, you found the sensor and/or the switch. On my 2000TL, they are BOTH near the thermostat, NOT on the radiator. My fans now both work, but ALWAYS together, either when hot or when the AC is on. This is certainly better than overheating until we figure it out.
#23
UB6IB9
Mine was overheating also,changed the thermostat...still overheating,radiator flush (got rid of any air in the system)...still overheating.Could it be my water pump?Because when i accelerate the temp drops.Like i said it dosen't overheat all the time and and when it does just by a little.
#24
UB6IB9
Hey thanks for answering my post. I noticed on the Acura parts website, the sensors were on the thermostat housing and I was getting confused about the location. I was up and down that radiator trying to find those sensors and I was like, "Dang I can't find them for nothing".
#25
Sorry it took so long. I have been very busy and I haven't had time to work on my 2000TL. Thank goodness its been very cool here in Georgia. I haven't had trouble with the overheating but I am sure it will come soon, if I don't address the problem
#26
I think I had the same problem as you, I noticed after I bought the car that my radiator fan would come on and stay on for around 10minutes after the car was shut down... I got it checked and it turned out to be a broken rad cap and a leak from a hose, I had him check the thermostat water pump coolant sensor everything, even made him burp the system and have it pressure tested. Everything was fine, but like a few days after having it repaired, I noticed while I was idle after a long ride my temp gauge started to go up again only when I was on idle or on park... I shut it down maybe 5mins later and the fan came on again for like 10minutes and since (its been a week since it happened) my temp gauge is fine, but i'm still unsure if everything is working properly. I took the car today, and noticed when I was on idle there was white smoke coming from hunder my hood driver side, turned out to be the overflow tank that was «breathing» steaming vapor instead of «rejecting» coolant.
Just adding some additional info so we can solve this shit of a problem once and for all
Just adding some additional info so we can solve this shit of a problem once and for all
#27
Hey guys....well lemme just get straight to the point. My wife owns a 2000 TL but she's in VA right now for school and I'm in Florida. She just started having issues with the car overheating. It doesn't get to red but it jumps half way pretty quickly, probably around a minute or so after she's started driving.
I think in her case spark plugs may also be an issue because last November we changed out the spark plugs and the wires. But I went to visit her for spring break and while I was there the CEL came on and again it was a couple cylinder misfires. This sounds like it may be a little more than just the plugs considering that they were changed only about 6 months ago and she barely drives anywhere. Maybe in her case it's just the spark plugs that need to be changed out by a shop or something rather than by me or her. By what she's been telling me is : it feels like it's struggling to stay on, like it's gonna cut off, engine starts jerking, there's a slow reaction to the gas pedal, and like I said, the overheating issue.
The good thing is she doesn't need to drive it that often but I'm just trying to catch something now before it becomes any worse than it could possibly be. Any help or suggestions from you guys would be greatly appreciated.
I think in her case spark plugs may also be an issue because last November we changed out the spark plugs and the wires. But I went to visit her for spring break and while I was there the CEL came on and again it was a couple cylinder misfires. This sounds like it may be a little more than just the plugs considering that they were changed only about 6 months ago and she barely drives anywhere. Maybe in her case it's just the spark plugs that need to be changed out by a shop or something rather than by me or her. By what she's been telling me is : it feels like it's struggling to stay on, like it's gonna cut off, engine starts jerking, there's a slow reaction to the gas pedal, and like I said, the overheating issue.
The good thing is she doesn't need to drive it that often but I'm just trying to catch something now before it becomes any worse than it could possibly be. Any help or suggestions from you guys would be greatly appreciated.
#29
it seems to be the temp sensor I don't have the link but there's a thread on it. I just ordered mine at the dealer today cost me 61$ tax in, it will arrive tomorrow and i'll install it. Hope it solves my problems, i've changed almost eveyrthing, rad cap, radiator, 4 hoses, thermostat and now this. Check if your fan sensors work, the connectors etc.
#30
Cooling fan
My cooling fan never comes on ,the a/c fan does however the cooling never kicks on yet it doesnt get hot unless i am driving with the a/c on in heavy traffic..any one know if this is the cooling relay fuse or should i be checking the fan clutch...
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
#32
Drifting
See if you measure approx. 12v at the inop. fan... if not backtrack to the relay & check. Don't believe there is a fan clutch since they are electric.
#33
meh it's only been 2 days and it started overheating tonight. Was at a light and gazed at my gauge, and it was 1 tick below half, it's normally at 2 ticks before half so I was like F*ck, then it started to rise but the light turned green so I took off and it went back down. Parked in my driveway to see what would happen and after a while it started by staying at half, my driver side fan finally came on, but that just slowed the process a little it still went to up to 3/4. I checked and only my driver side was on not my A/C. I shut the car off before it went to red, and my driver side fan was still on, I noticed my sunroof was open so I put the key to put it at ON so I can close the sunroof and when I did turn the car to ON, the fan stopped, and as soon as I took the key out it started again. I changed my radiator, 3-4 hoses, t-stat, coolant temp sensor, now what?
#34
meh it's only been 2 days and it started overheating tonight. Was at a light and gazed at my gauge, and it was 1 tick below half, it's normally at 2 ticks before half so I was like F*ck, then it started to rise but the light turned green so I took off and it went back down. Parked in my driveway to see what would happen and after a while it started by staying at half, my driver side fan finally came on, but that just slowed the process a little it still went to up to 3/4. I checked and only my driver side was on not my A/C. I shut the car off before it went to red, and my driver side fan was still on, I noticed my sunroof was open so I put the key to put it at ON so I can close the sunroof and when I did turn the car to ON, the fan stopped, and as soon as I took the key out it started again. I changed my radiator, 3-4 hoses, t-stat, coolant temp sensor, now what?
#35
Once I reconnect the cable back, the fan works now.
#36
that would be its power lead
#37
I thought it is some kind of senor because the fan was coming ON when I stopped the engine. If it is the power lead, doesn't the fan be OFF all the time?
The cable has female end and the other side there are two tiny metal pins.
I certainly had this problem for a while. Does this issue make the engine to burn Oil?
I have observed that time to time I am losing Oil. I don't see any visible leaks as such.
The cable has female end and the other side there are two tiny metal pins.
I certainly had this problem for a while. Does this issue make the engine to burn Oil?
I have observed that time to time I am losing Oil. I don't see any visible leaks as such.
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