Oil light/burning oil
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Oil light/burning oil
Hey guys, today I was driving and my oil light came on, far from when I was due for my scheduled oil change, so I go to get an oil change and the oil light is still on 5 hours later, is there a way to reset this? Or is something wrong, also they advised me to buy an oil stabilizer which would help my car not burn the oil so quickly, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
uhhh oil light or maitenance required light?
red oil light = bad news somewhere,,oil pressure low or hopefully just the sensor failed
yellow Mait Req light is a manual reset, that reminds you its oil change time--
based only on miles since last reset (with trip buttons and key position) but you know that
Please no additives in the oil! messes with vtec pressures etc
if the TL is using oil, there is a reason---find it
DO ck your PCV valve on rear valve cover--clogging will cause internal pressures to exit wherever they can --often pushing oil out at the same time
less than 10 bucks at any parts store--most of us are due for replacement of that part anyway.
ball inside should move easily
Also ck engine rear main seal by removing the inspection plate under eng/trans connection -- a few 10mm bolts
if oil comes out there = rear main seal leak
another option- right before next oil change- run a 1/2 can of seafoam in the oil and drive up to 200 miles that way. Will clean out the piston rings and grooves, restore any loss of sealing there-- for oil problem
change oil and filter with engine warm from 15 minute freeway drive so all the crud is liquified by seafoam and drains out
red oil light = bad news somewhere,,oil pressure low or hopefully just the sensor failed
yellow Mait Req light is a manual reset, that reminds you its oil change time--
based only on miles since last reset (with trip buttons and key position) but you know that
Please no additives in the oil! messes with vtec pressures etc
if the TL is using oil, there is a reason---find it
DO ck your PCV valve on rear valve cover--clogging will cause internal pressures to exit wherever they can --often pushing oil out at the same time
less than 10 bucks at any parts store--most of us are due for replacement of that part anyway.
ball inside should move easily
Also ck engine rear main seal by removing the inspection plate under eng/trans connection -- a few 10mm bolts
if oil comes out there = rear main seal leak
another option- right before next oil change- run a 1/2 can of seafoam in the oil and drive up to 200 miles that way. Will clean out the piston rings and grooves, restore any loss of sealing there-- for oil problem
change oil and filter with engine warm from 15 minute freeway drive so all the crud is liquified by seafoam and drains out
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
uhhh oil light or maitenance required light?
red oil light = bad news somewhere,,oil pressure low or hopefully just the sensor failed
yellow Mait Req light is a manual reset, that reminds you its oil change time--
based only on miles since last reset (with trip buttons and key position) but you know that
Please no additives in the oil! messes with vtec pressures etc
if the TL is using oil, there is a reason---find it
DO ck your PCV valve on rear valve cover--clogging will cause internal pressures to exit wherever they can --often pushing oil out at the same time
less than 10 bucks at any parts store--most of us are due for replacement of that part anyway.
ball inside should move easily
Also ck engine rear main seal by removing the inspection plate under eng/trans connection -- a few 10mm bolts
if oil comes out there = rear main seal leak
another option- right before next oil change- run a 1/2 can of seafoam in the oil and drive up to 200 miles that way. Will clean out the piston rings and grooves, restore any loss of sealing there-- for oil problem
change oil and filter with engine warm from 15 minute freeway drive so all the crud is liquified by seafoam and drains out
red oil light = bad news somewhere,,oil pressure low or hopefully just the sensor failed
yellow Mait Req light is a manual reset, that reminds you its oil change time--
based only on miles since last reset (with trip buttons and key position) but you know that
Please no additives in the oil! messes with vtec pressures etc
if the TL is using oil, there is a reason---find it
DO ck your PCV valve on rear valve cover--clogging will cause internal pressures to exit wherever they can --often pushing oil out at the same time
less than 10 bucks at any parts store--most of us are due for replacement of that part anyway.
ball inside should move easily
Also ck engine rear main seal by removing the inspection plate under eng/trans connection -- a few 10mm bolts
if oil comes out there = rear main seal leak
another option- right before next oil change- run a 1/2 can of seafoam in the oil and drive up to 200 miles that way. Will clean out the piston rings and grooves, restore any loss of sealing there-- for oil problem
change oil and filter with engine warm from 15 minute freeway drive so all the crud is liquified by seafoam and drains out
Thanks for your response, it is or should I say was the red oil light, just drove for a half hour and has not come back on, checked the oil and its fine, question, never changed changed the pcv valve, could never find it, as simple as you can put it, where can I find it?
Thanks,
#4
Senior Moderator
rear valve cover towards the drivers side.
#5
plugs into the rear valve cover- drivers side
and hose goes from it- to the intake snorkel tube (from TB to air filter box)
start at driver end of valve cover and look down its length a few inches
there you go!!!
and hose goes from it- to the intake snorkel tube (from TB to air filter box)
start at driver end of valve cover and look down its length a few inches
there you go!!!
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#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Could you PLEASE take a pic of it for me to take me out of my misery.
Thanks man!
#10
I dont have a 99
look at the diagram on hood of car for emission routing--it will show the PCV
positive crankcase ventilation- device and location
Or go to a parts store and buy one, then ask for help locating on car
they may have a diagram onscreen, or go outside and say- SEE!! that thing with a hose going to each end of it--one end to intake snorkel and other to valve cover
It probably in the middle of a line, not inserted directly to valve cover itself--
that should narrow it down for you
look at the diagram on hood of car for emission routing--it will show the PCV
positive crankcase ventilation- device and location
Or go to a parts store and buy one, then ask for help locating on car
they may have a diagram onscreen, or go outside and say- SEE!! that thing with a hose going to each end of it--one end to intake snorkel and other to valve cover
It probably in the middle of a line, not inserted directly to valve cover itself--
that should narrow it down for you
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
I dont have a 99
look at the diagram on hood of car for emission routing--it will show the PCV
positive crankcase ventilation- device and location
Or go to a parts store and buy one, then ask for help locating on car
they may have a diagram onscreen, or go outside and say- SEE!! that thing with a hose going to each end of it--one end to intake snorkel and other to valve cover
It probably in the middle of a line, not inserted directly to valve cover itself--
that should narrow it down for you
look at the diagram on hood of car for emission routing--it will show the PCV
positive crankcase ventilation- device and location
Or go to a parts store and buy one, then ask for help locating on car
they may have a diagram onscreen, or go outside and say- SEE!! that thing with a hose going to each end of it--one end to intake snorkel and other to valve cover
It probably in the middle of a line, not inserted directly to valve cover itself--
that should narrow it down for you
Can anyone with a 99 take a pic and post it.
Thanks again.
#12
You could try a dealer. I personally don't like aftermarket pcv valves. It's a calibrated vacuum leak, and being off either way can cause oil consumption, oil leaking, and/or running problems. One aftermarket pcv number covers tl, type s, and non type s, various years, vw, lexus, f 250, and a bunch of hondas. Sure, it'll cost you $20 instead of $2, but it will be right, and the parts guy will usually show you how to install it or get a low level tech to show you.
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