oil in intake manifold

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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 10:05 PM
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oil in intake manifold

1/6 quart of oil in the intake manifold, not fun, any idea? No leakage from outside.

Is that OK to reused the old gasket?



Thanks
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 01:34 AM
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guessing you are removing manifold to clean egr or something

Its perfectly NORMAL for some oil to be in the upper part of the manifold
Just wipe it up -no prob

gasket should be fine
Make sure that top gasket goes back on the same way it came off- can be flipped over and fit--but not work
match all holes to upper cover part with gasket,,not match to engine side
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
guessing you are removing manifold to clean egr or something

Its perfectly NORMAL for some oil to be in the upper part of the manifold
Just wipe it up -no prob

gasket should be fine
Make sure that top gasket goes back on the same way it came off- can be flipped over and fit--but not work
match all holes to upper cover part with gasket,,not match to engine side
Yes, I did clean egr and adjust valve, I found all the exhaust valve gap were same as the intake valev, odd, I adjusted to 0.3mm(exhaust), no need for all the intake valve. I tigthened the bolts in 2 steps by torque bar to specified torque. hope it will be OK.
should I replace the pcv valve?

Thanks alot.
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 08:04 AM
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^^^---where is the PCV located on a 99 TL ??
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 09:44 AM
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so all the exhaust valves were tight?!! that is bad! good thing you fixed them now

and the intakes were all on spec?

dan,, please look under the hood--meaning on the metal parts of the engine compartment frame area and underneath hood--for several stickers with engine info- spark plug spec, another with vac tubing diagram and all the smog parts listed and hose routes shown,,including PCV...one has belt diagram...
I answered more in the thread you started
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
so all the exhaust valves were tight?!! that is bad! good thing you fixed them now

and the intakes were all on spec?

dan,, please look under the hood--meaning on the metal parts of the engine compartment frame area and underneath hood--for several stickers with engine info- spark plug spec, another with vac tubing diagram and all the smog parts listed and hose routes shown,,including PCV...one has belt diagram...
I answered more in the thread you started
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 01:43 PM
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The oil up there is normal.
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dan lazer
^^^---where is the PCV located on a 99 TL ??
A is the PCV



you can also download the service manual:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/2gen-3gen-tl-service-manual-download-816373/
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 06:26 PM
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good diagram- thanks
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
so all the exhaust valves were tight?!! that is bad! good thing you fixed them now

and the intakes were all on spec?

dan,, please look under the hood--meaning on the metal parts of the engine compartment frame area and underneath hood--for several stickers with engine info- spark plug spec, another with vac tubing diagram and all the smog parts listed and hose routes shown,,including PCV...one has belt diagram...
I answered more in the thread you started
The under hood spec says : intake 0.22mm + - 0.02mm, exhaust 0.30mm +-0.02mm; the service manual says: intake 0.20-0.24mm, exhaust 0.28-0.32mm.
So confused, I used 0.223mm for intake and 0.305 for exhaust. Hope it will be OK.
One more thing, there is a plastic harness cover on the rear valve cover. I undid the two bolts, but its one end goes into the rear crankshaft cover and the inject system, and the other end goes into a black plastic box tightly. I just couldn't remove it. I hung it on the strut brace and then pulled the valve cover out, pretty tough. Do you know how to properly remove it?

Thanks
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mrl_tl
The under hood spec says : intake 0.22mm + - 0.02mm, exhaust 0.30mm +-0.02mm; the service manual says: intake 0.20-0.24mm, exhaust 0.28-0.32mm.
So confused, I used 0.223mm for intake and 0.305 for exhaust. Hope it will be OK.
One more thing, there is a plastic harness cover on the rear valve cover. I undid the two bolts, but its one end goes into the rear crankshaft cover and the inject system, and the other end goes into a black plastic box tightly. I just couldn't remove it. I hung it on the strut brace and then pulled the valve cover out, pretty tough. Do you know how to properly remove it?

Thanks
under hood gives a spec with PLUS or MINUS a certain amout while the service manual gives a range, either way IT's the same fucking spec/range

and those both of those sizes you used, are right in the middle of the specs (minus the hundred thousands, which is so minute, that depending on how snug fitting you made the feeler gauge, it will vary slightly
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 08:53 PM
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thats the next question--plain feeler guage or go/no-go type guage
if you want them exact- the go no-go is the way... to go~

why are you confused about the numbers?
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mrl_tl
The under hood spec says : intake 0.22mm + - 0.02mm, exhaust 0.30mm +-0.02mm; the service manual says: intake 0.20-0.24mm, exhaust 0.28-0.32mm.
So confused, I used 0.223mm for intake and 0.305 for exhaust. Hope it will be OK.
One more thing, there is a plastic harness cover on the rear valve cover. I undid the two bolts, but its one end goes into the rear crankshaft cover and the inject system, and the other end goes into a black plastic box tightly. I just couldn't remove it. I hung it on the strut brace and then pulled the valve cover out, pretty tough. Do you know how to properly remove it?

Thanks
Add and subtract .02 to the .22 it becomes the .20 and .24. DO the same for .30 exhaust and it becomes .28 to .32
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
thats the next question--plain feeler guage or go/no-go type guage
if you want them exact- the go no-go is the way... to go~

why are you confused about the numbers?
I used blade gauge 0.223mm for intake and 0.305 for exhaust.


One more thing, there is a plastic harness cover on the rear valve cover. I undid the two bolts, but its one end goes into the rear crankshaft cover and the inject system, and the other end goes into a black plastic box tightly. I just couldn't remove it. I hung it on the strut brace and then pulled the valve cover out, pretty tough. Do you know how to properly remove it?

Thanks
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 03:36 AM
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blade guage--and what,,4 lbs pull on it? first time doing valves with feeler guage?
slid blade in--not lifted other parts to access clearance ?

this is why I suggest so strongly that a go/no-go blade is used!!
No way to screw up with it--its on the exact measure or its not
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Add and subtract .02 to the .22 it becomes the .20 and .24. DO the same for .30 exhaust and it becomes .28 to .32
you are right, my match is bad.
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
blade guage--and what,,4 lbs pull on it? first time doing valves with feeler guage?
slid blade in--not lifted other parts to access clearance ?

this is why I suggest so strongly that a go/no-go blade is used!!
No way to screw up with it--its on the exact measure or its not

yes, it was my first time doing valves, I used this guy:
9$ from Candian Tire
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mrl_tl
yes, it was my first time doing valves, I used this guy:
9$ from Candian Tire

yeah it kinda takes time/practice to get a feel for using them
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 11:05 AM
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I would go back with a real go/no-go and recheck them--it slides in and stops when correct
bet you find they are not on spec

how did you figure out the correct amount of drag to be correct--ckd against valves that appeared correct?
or did you adjust until blade wouldnt go in.. or how exactly?? serious question not meant to harass

concerned about every exhaust being off but no intakes,,might be your procedure needs refinement

Last edited by 01tl4tl; Apr 24, 2011 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
I would go back with a real go/no-go and recheck them--it slides in and stops when correct
bet you find they are not on spec

how did you figure out the correct amount of drag to be correct--ckd against valves that appeared correct?
or did you adjust until blade wouldnt go in.. or how exactly?? serious question not meant to harass

concerned about every exhaust being off but no intakes,,might be your procedure needs refinement
I used 0.305mm blade gauge, inserted it between adjusting screw and valve stem and slided it back and forth with a slight amount of drag. Before I adjusted it, the 0.305mm gauge couldn't even insert into all the valve except the 1st one, but the 0.223 gauge did.
I think I should reck it(it takes hours ), where I can buy the go on go? what is it look like?

Thanks

Last edited by mrl_tl; Apr 24, 2011 at 04:55 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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we have discussed and pic'd this many times
try looking on the internet for more info
maybe the valve adjust threads?
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