oil in intake manifold
guessing you are removing manifold to clean egr or something
Its perfectly NORMAL for some oil to be in the upper part of the manifold
Just wipe it up -no prob
gasket should be fine
Make sure that top gasket goes back on the same way it came off- can be flipped over and fit--but not work
match all holes to upper cover part with gasket,,not match to engine side
Its perfectly NORMAL for some oil to be in the upper part of the manifold
Just wipe it up -no prob
gasket should be fine
Make sure that top gasket goes back on the same way it came off- can be flipped over and fit--but not work
match all holes to upper cover part with gasket,,not match to engine side
guessing you are removing manifold to clean egr or something
Its perfectly NORMAL for some oil to be in the upper part of the manifold
Just wipe it up -no prob
gasket should be fine
Make sure that top gasket goes back on the same way it came off- can be flipped over and fit--but not work
match all holes to upper cover part with gasket,,not match to engine side
Its perfectly NORMAL for some oil to be in the upper part of the manifold
Just wipe it up -no prob
gasket should be fine
Make sure that top gasket goes back on the same way it came off- can be flipped over and fit--but not work
match all holes to upper cover part with gasket,,not match to engine side
should I replace the pcv valve?
Thanks alot.
so all the exhaust valves were tight?!! that is bad! good thing you fixed them now
and the intakes were all on spec?
dan,, please look under the hood--meaning on the metal parts of the engine compartment frame area and underneath hood--for several stickers with engine info- spark plug spec, another with vac tubing diagram and all the smog parts listed and hose routes shown,,including PCV...one has belt diagram...
I answered more in the thread you started
and the intakes were all on spec?
dan,, please look under the hood--meaning on the metal parts of the engine compartment frame area and underneath hood--for several stickers with engine info- spark plug spec, another with vac tubing diagram and all the smog parts listed and hose routes shown,,including PCV...one has belt diagram...
I answered more in the thread you started
so all the exhaust valves were tight?!! that is bad! good thing you fixed them now
and the intakes were all on spec?
dan,, please look under the hood--meaning on the metal parts of the engine compartment frame area and underneath hood--for several stickers with engine info- spark plug spec, another with vac tubing diagram and all the smog parts listed and hose routes shown,,including PCV...one has belt diagram...
I answered more in the thread you started
and the intakes were all on spec?
dan,, please look under the hood--meaning on the metal parts of the engine compartment frame area and underneath hood--for several stickers with engine info- spark plug spec, another with vac tubing diagram and all the smog parts listed and hose routes shown,,including PCV...one has belt diagram...
I answered more in the thread you started
Trending Topics
A is the PCV

you can also download the service manual:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/2gen-3gen-tl-service-manual-download-816373/

you can also download the service manual:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/2gen-3gen-tl-service-manual-download-816373/
so all the exhaust valves were tight?!! that is bad! good thing you fixed them now
and the intakes were all on spec?
dan,, please look under the hood--meaning on the metal parts of the engine compartment frame area and underneath hood--for several stickers with engine info- spark plug spec, another with vac tubing diagram and all the smog parts listed and hose routes shown,,including PCV...one has belt diagram...
I answered more in the thread you started
and the intakes were all on spec?
dan,, please look under the hood--meaning on the metal parts of the engine compartment frame area and underneath hood--for several stickers with engine info- spark plug spec, another with vac tubing diagram and all the smog parts listed and hose routes shown,,including PCV...one has belt diagram...
I answered more in the thread you started
So confused, I used 0.223mm for intake and 0.305 for exhaust. Hope it will be OK.
One more thing, there is a plastic harness cover on the rear valve cover. I undid the two bolts, but its one end goes into the rear crankshaft cover and the inject system, and the other end goes into a black plastic box tightly. I just couldn't remove it. I hung it on the strut brace and then pulled the valve cover out, pretty tough. Do you know how to properly remove it?
Thanks
The under hood spec says : intake 0.22mm + - 0.02mm, exhaust 0.30mm +-0.02mm; the service manual says: intake 0.20-0.24mm, exhaust 0.28-0.32mm.
So confused, I used 0.223mm for intake and 0.305 for exhaust. Hope it will be OK.
One more thing, there is a plastic harness cover on the rear valve cover. I undid the two bolts, but its one end goes into the rear crankshaft cover and the inject system, and the other end goes into a black plastic box tightly. I just couldn't remove it. I hung it on the strut brace and then pulled the valve cover out, pretty tough. Do you know how to properly remove it?
Thanks
So confused, I used 0.223mm for intake and 0.305 for exhaust. Hope it will be OK.
One more thing, there is a plastic harness cover on the rear valve cover. I undid the two bolts, but its one end goes into the rear crankshaft cover and the inject system, and the other end goes into a black plastic box tightly. I just couldn't remove it. I hung it on the strut brace and then pulled the valve cover out, pretty tough. Do you know how to properly remove it?
Thanks
and those both of those sizes you used, are right in the middle of the specs (minus the hundred thousands, which is so minute, that depending on how snug fitting you made the feeler gauge, it will vary slightly
The under hood spec says : intake 0.22mm + - 0.02mm, exhaust 0.30mm +-0.02mm; the service manual says: intake 0.20-0.24mm, exhaust 0.28-0.32mm.
So confused, I used 0.223mm for intake and 0.305 for exhaust. Hope it will be OK.
One more thing, there is a plastic harness cover on the rear valve cover. I undid the two bolts, but its one end goes into the rear crankshaft cover and the inject system, and the other end goes into a black plastic box tightly. I just couldn't remove it. I hung it on the strut brace and then pulled the valve cover out, pretty tough. Do you know how to properly remove it?
Thanks
So confused, I used 0.223mm for intake and 0.305 for exhaust. Hope it will be OK.
One more thing, there is a plastic harness cover on the rear valve cover. I undid the two bolts, but its one end goes into the rear crankshaft cover and the inject system, and the other end goes into a black plastic box tightly. I just couldn't remove it. I hung it on the strut brace and then pulled the valve cover out, pretty tough. Do you know how to properly remove it?
Thanks
One more thing, there is a plastic harness cover on the rear valve cover. I undid the two bolts, but its one end goes into the rear crankshaft cover and the inject system, and the other end goes into a black plastic box tightly. I just couldn't remove it. I hung it on the strut brace and then pulled the valve cover out, pretty tough. Do you know how to properly remove it?
Thanks
blade guage--and what,,4 lbs pull on it? first time doing valves with feeler guage?
slid blade in--not lifted other parts to access clearance ?
this is why I suggest so strongly that a go/no-go blade is used!!
No way to screw up with it--its on the exact measure or its not
slid blade in--not lifted other parts to access clearance ?
this is why I suggest so strongly that a go/no-go blade is used!!
No way to screw up with it--its on the exact measure or its not
blade guage--and what,,4 lbs pull on it? first time doing valves with feeler guage?
slid blade in--not lifted other parts to access clearance ?
this is why I suggest so strongly that a go/no-go blade is used!!
No way to screw up with it--its on the exact measure or its not
slid blade in--not lifted other parts to access clearance ?
this is why I suggest so strongly that a go/no-go blade is used!!
No way to screw up with it--its on the exact measure or its not
yes, it was my first time doing valves, I used this guy:

9$ from Candian Tire
I would go back with a real go/no-go and recheck them--it slides in and stops when correct
bet you find they are not on spec
how did you figure out the correct amount of drag to be correct--ckd against valves that appeared correct?
or did you adjust until blade wouldnt go in.. or how exactly?? serious question not meant to harass
concerned about every exhaust being off but no intakes,,might be your procedure needs refinement
bet you find they are not on spec
how did you figure out the correct amount of drag to be correct--ckd against valves that appeared correct?
or did you adjust until blade wouldnt go in.. or how exactly?? serious question not meant to harass
concerned about every exhaust being off but no intakes,,might be your procedure needs refinement
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Apr 24, 2011 at 11:08 AM.
I would go back with a real go/no-go and recheck them--it slides in and stops when correct
bet you find they are not on spec
how did you figure out the correct amount of drag to be correct--ckd against valves that appeared correct?
or did you adjust until blade wouldnt go in.. or how exactly?? serious question not meant to harass
concerned about every exhaust being off but no intakes,,might be your procedure needs refinement
bet you find they are not on spec
how did you figure out the correct amount of drag to be correct--ckd against valves that appeared correct?
or did you adjust until blade wouldnt go in.. or how exactly?? serious question not meant to harass
concerned about every exhaust being off but no intakes,,might be your procedure needs refinement
I think I should reck it(it takes hours
), where I can buy the go on go? what is it look like?Thanks
Last edited by mrl_tl; Apr 24, 2011 at 04:55 PM.
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