so the other day i turned on my headlights.. or should i say headlight and had to shut it off and turn it on about 4 times before the other turned on. could it be a loose connection? or just a bad ballast, also my ballasts and housings are a year old

 

Hey Barry, if ya just replaced stuff last year and you're already having problems again, ya know what the real solution is !!! Replace the old OEM stuff with the newer HID replacement kit....all for less than $100 and some time splicing them in. This will fix things for good.

In the meantime, check the wiring connections and grounds. Could be something loose or corroded ?
Ya could try swapping in known good parts on the side that is giving you issues.

 

what did you use for parts? some ebay used OE stuff or an aftermarket kit?
any moisture in the new housings? is the air vent/moisture drain open- where the wires go in bottom of housing?

your symptoms are that of a dying system, regardless of ballast or ignitor or both, its time for decent parts
many of us use www.hidextra.com it says conversion kit but we have HID so its just cut and splice 2 wires per side, easy
I suggest the `standard size` 35 watt ballast and 5000k color bulbs
look for coupons online and on their website
also have excellent phone help!

 

both headlights were replaced by a body shop with direct OEM parts is it difficult to get to the ballast and check the connection?... 01tl4tl, arent our OEM lights HIDs aswell?

 

Yeah, our 2nd Gen TL's came new from the factory with HID's, for the low beam headlights.

For more info on the HID set-up and replacing, check the "DIY" sticky and previous related threads.

 

wonder if the body shop was allowed to install USED parts- because factory originals would take longer to obtain, and cut into the profit margin
if so all you got was some old garbage~

yes we have hid low beams- as stock
I say buy the aftermarket kit because that's how its marketed, as a kit to change to hid, but we don't need relay or wires or other stuff to install.

35 watt is stock, 4300k was OE bulbs, most go with 5000k or 6000k
I have tried both and prefer 5000 to better see objects on the road

 

the wiring connections should be visible behind housing

could be the igniter is bad if not replaced
when a wet ballast dies guess what it takes with it--

 

so its as simple as swapping the ballasts? and does it require removing the entire front end? im trying to figure out how much time im gonna need to fix this problem because its starting to get worse

 

to install a complete setup- remove nose of car and headlight housings
cut wires at connector and install new connector on wire- attach to new ballast
theres a few diys already- everyone has their own tricks
give yourself 2 hours - 3 hours at a casual pace, and figuring out how to remove the clips you will break~
note: hidden + screw at tire edge to bumper cover/fender attachment point, look up with tire turned in for access to screw