Odd Creaking/Grinding Noise

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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Odd Creaking/Grinding Noise

5AT, '02 TL-S, ~112,000 miles. Timing Belt, Water Pump done @66,000 miles a little over 4-years ago. Basically stock - no suspension or engine mods.


A kind of grinding noise that comes and goes; it also squeaks/creaks. Seems most prevalent at lower speeds in a straight line. Seems to be more prevalent after the car warms up a little.

No unusual noise when car is stationary - only when driving.

Not the PS pump, o-ring, etc. No air in the reservoir and no noise turning the wheel when stationary.

Seems to come from the right front suspension area - but it's hard to tell for sure. Occurs with or without foot on the gas.



Any guesses? What should I look at?

Last edited by Bearcat94; Sep 23, 2012 at 03:12 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 03:51 PM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
I'm now guessing Wheel Bearing.


Sound reasonable? How to confirm?
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 05:48 PM
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I assume that you've already checked the drive belt pulleys, as they are also located in that general area. Usually a worn bearing will mellow out once it's "warmed up".

With the car's front end safely supported and the tire off the ground, grab the tire from the top and bottom....then alternately push in & out, if there's play....then the wheel bearing is bad.

If that proves ok, have someone start the car while it's front end is still safely supported off the ground, then have the helper carefully put it into drive while you carefully observe and listen for anything abnormal.

If everything still appears normal, go check out the rear.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Originally Posted by 3.2TLc
I assume that you've already checked the drive belt pulleys, as they are also located in that general area. Usually a worn bearing will mellow out once it's "warmed up".

With the car's front end safely supported and the tire off the ground, grab the tire from the top and bottom....then alternately push in & out, if there's play....then the wheel bearing is bad.

If that proves ok, have someone start the car while it's front end is still safely supported off the ground, then have the helper carefully put it into drive while you carefully observe and listen for anything abnormal.

If everything still appears normal, go check out the rear.

Pretty sure it's not the drive belt or associated pulleys since the noise only happens when the car is in motion. No indication of a problem at idle/rest.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 06:29 PM
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Take the old girl out on a quiet night, go up a city steet with low traffic preferably with tall buildings on both sides.....if you notice this noise primarily at lower speeds, while driving straight......then attempt to steer to the right and then left to see if the noise goes away.

Just don't be under the influence of anything, other than attempting to isolate the gremlin.
A worn wheel bearing can be elusive, it's not always where you sense it should be !
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 09:04 AM
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Its most likely not a wheel bearing. Those typically make a humming/vibration noise that gets louder with speed and you can usually pinpoint the side and if it is by swerving the car left and right. When turning with load on it it will get louder and turning away from with load off it it will get quieter.

I would jack up the front, wash the suspension pieces, then get some WD40 or similar and spray the bushings. See if that quiets it down some or eliminates it, most all are rubber and with age they dry out and wear out. Another thing that could cause it is a worn out/dried out CV joint.
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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Hey Bear, I just remembered a few years back....yeah, it's getting harder for me to recall past yesterday sometimes, but long story short:

I had a similiar creak/squeak in the passenger side front, then checked bushings, struts, brakes,etc. It finally turned out being the upper ball joint. Something to look at !
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 11:53 PM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
OK, figuring it was a wheel bearing or ball joint or some other part I couldn't change in the garage, I took it to the local Firestone. $20 later they say, "You've got the wrong brake pads; they're too big."

The idea was there was excess pad material outside the diameter of the rotor - a lip - that was rubbing on the outside/top edge of the rotor. Quoted some outrageous price for rotors and pads. I said, no thanks.

BUT, even though I didn't see how what they say could happen (wrong size pads), I thought I'd change 'em out anyhow and see. So I got a set of new OE front pads and installed 'em. The aftermarket pads did have a 'lip' .... .

Took it for a test drive. Quiet .... Quiet .... Quiet .... Quiet .... Squeak/Grind .... Squeak/Grind .... Squeak/Grind .... Squeak/Grind .... .


But I learned a few things:

- Noise is intermittent when driving - it comes and goes, but it's never gone long;
- Noise is only noticeable at slower speeds, 45 and below; cannot be heard at highway speeds;
- Most noticeable at slower speeds and it changes/slows down at very slow speed - like something rubbing at a regular interval;
- Less noticeable under acceleration; most noticeable right after letting go of the gas pedal;
- Cannot be heard when brakes are fully engaged;
- Can be heard in a straight line and when turning either left or right;
- Definitely on the passenger side (it took it into a parking garage to hear better);
- Under hard(er) braking there is a bit of a shimmy; feels like the right side is worse.

With the wheels off, turning the hub there is no 'can of marbles' sound and no 'jiggling' to indicate a wheel bearing; also the noise does not increase with speed. No noticeable suspension failures.

I think something is rubbing. Maybe the dust shield or the rotor rubbing the pad (or something). Although I didn't hear it/see it when changing the pads and turning the hub.





(BTW - rotors are Racing Brake Slotted and pads are Racing Brake ET500; and the pads are a very, very little bit taller than the rotor.)
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 12:51 AM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
If I think it's the rotor, can I change the left and right and see if the noise moves?
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 02:21 AM
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those are directional rotors so you cant swap them
but I have never heard of this et500 pad fitment issue and ziners have been on them a few years
I think they wanted to sell you brakes!!

Did you ck the pad face for flatness?
cleaned rotors with brake cleaner, maybe some 120 grit to remove old pad material and do a full bedding of the pads?

the cooling vanes on sides of rotor do clog with brake dust,,
brake cleaner takes it off pretty easily
Never know where a noise starts!

call RB and ask about the pad fitment
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 08:40 AM
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^ Tom, For the sake of testing he could swap them and drive it and see if the noise follows. If it does that is your issue. If not its something else. Double check the dust shield when swapping sides.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 01:40 PM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
I'll get all the parts cleaned up real good.

I'm (now) convinced it's something in the caliper/rotor/dust sheild area (later I'll be convinced of something else .... ). You can hear/feel the noise stop once the brake is fully engaged, even if you're still moving.

I won't get to fool with it until Friday. I'm hoping I won't need new rotors.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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Hey Bear, I'm unsure if you live in the "rust belt", but if you do the dust shield clearance is not very much, and it's possible that something such as a small stone or even rust is within that area. I had trouble with one of my rear brake dust shields corroding near the center. It may be worth trying a quick spin of the rear wheel jacked up !
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 05:18 PM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Originally Posted by 3.2TLc
Hey Bear, I'm unsure if you live in the "rust belt", but if you do the dust shield clearance is not very much, and it's possible that something such as a small stone or even rust is within that area. I had trouble with one of my rear brake dust shields corroding near the center. It may be worth trying a quick spin of the rear wheel jacked up !

Nope .... Carolina. 1 snow every 5-years, like clockwork.

I will check the rear as well.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 03:43 PM
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I have seen the caliper sitting on the dust shield during brake work = bent shield
Have seen the giant spring clip center used inside Legend calipers and not needed, can make noises

What about the backing plates of the pads? RB does NOT use any!
as their tech guy said "If we wanted you to use them, we would have included them in the package"

OE pads will use them

call RB about the pad issue,,will removing some of its edge solve the noise?
I dont think OE pads and RB rotors will get along at all
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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 05:56 PM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"



I can't find anything in the brakes or the suspension and I don't have time to keep looking for I don't know what.

Taking it to Acura and let them tell me what's wrong. Then I'll decide if I'll fix it or if I'll have someone else fix it.

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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 05:57 PM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Did successfully change the hood props though. That was easy.
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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 08:45 PM
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Squeak....squeak..shsssk....!

Originally Posted by Bearcat94
If I think it's the rotor, can I change the left and right and see if the noise moves?

So, did you try swapping the front rotors ?

With the way you've been describing this noise and it going away when applying the brake, really seems to point towards something concerning the rotor disc or hardware.

Did you check out the rear also ? Have you tried simulating the action by rotating the wheel/tire assembly while supported off the ground ? How are the new "OEM" pads wearing ?
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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 11:42 PM
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I have to say, you are describing an exact issue I had a few months ago. I experienced the same sounds under the very same conditions your describing. I racked my brain looking for the source.

I changed by Sway Bar Bushings for under 10 bucks.

It's worth a shot for that price, and such an easy install.
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Bearcat94



I can't find anything in the brakes or the suspension and I don't have time to keep looking for I don't know what.

Taking it to Acura and let them tell me what's wrong. Then I'll decide if I'll fix it or if I'll have someone else fix it.


Hey Bear, any luck with the dealership finding the problem ? Just curious !
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 3.2TLc
Hey Bear, any luck with the dealership finding the problem ? Just curious !
^ This. Having the same exact symptoms on my RSX. Doesn't make a sound when I inspect it in the air but starts grinding when I drive at low speeds. Wut do?!
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 01:13 PM
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I'm an idiot. Turns out my lugs were loose. (¬_¬)
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 04:55 PM
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Whoah man......ya got lucky, that could've been devastating !!!!!
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 12:30 PM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Originally Posted by 3.2TLc
Hey Bear, any luck with the dealership finding the problem ? Just curious !
Originally Posted by Floy_Dizzle
^ This. Having the same exact symptoms on my RSX. Doesn't make a sound when I inspect it in the air but starts grinding when I drive at low speeds. Wut do?!

So we just 'lived with it' for the past 6 - 9 months .... until yesterday. It started making a god-awful racket, like something was broken and clanging/banging against the wheel or something else .... think playing card in bicycle spokes, but metal-on-metal.

Limped to the local, new, Firestone. They say 'wheel bearing'.



THAT'S what I said months ago: https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...45&postcount=2

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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 02:41 PM
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Hey Bear, while it may have been the wheel bearing all along.....ya gotta ask yourself: "Do I really trust these Firestone guys" ???? As of now, the drive axle cv joints and the lower ball joint also should be closely inspected for wear. The reason being that while you're pulling things apart in the general area, it's not that much extra labor to replace those parts at this time, if bad.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 04:59 PM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Yes, good point and I agree.

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