Yes, another brake related topic. So I got my rotors turned last Saturday morning, and my buddy and I put on my new pads (Greenies). Everything went smoothly and we did a great job on the brakes (Probably 50 brakes jobs experience between the two of us). Now about six weeks before my brakes were done, I noticed a loud grinding/metal on metal sound when coming to a complete stop. The pads on the driver were worn considerably more and the place that turned my rotors said it could either be the caliper sticking or the pins on the caliper.

Well, my friend and I greased the pins really well, as well as tested the caliper piston to see if it could be sticking, but all seemed to be moving rather freely. We got the brakes finished last weekend, and all was well until the next evening when the grinding/metal rubbing sound came back. Also, it doesn't to it every time I stop. Could this really be a bad caliper? Honestly, what do you think it could be?

 

I noticed the EBC Green pads have a grinding noise to them before they get bedded in. Didn't like that sound at all!

 

#1 EBC pads do not have a great track record with us. I just have not heard good things about them from anyone.


#2 Sometimes you'll get that noise when the brake pad material is inconsistent. You'll get inclusions and hard spots in the material that will make noise. Once the pad wears a little more the noise should go away.

#3 if one side is wearing considerable more than the other, I'd still keep an eye on that side for a sticking caliper. You will notice excessive dusting on this side if the caliper is sticking. Keep an eye on it.

 

Thanks, MrHT.

Here are my responses:

1.) I had never used EBC's before but I had heard good things.....Live and learn I guess.

2.) But I was getting the exact same noise for the last two months leading up to the rotor/pad changes.

3.) I'm thinking the caliper may be the issue. What else would lead to inconsistent pad wear? The pins are in good conditions, and they were cleaned/lubed very well when replaced. I'll keep an eye on the dust, but so far so good.

Thanks, bro. Your feedback is very much appreciated.

 

Where did the grease get applied? Pins?

When I did mine, I looked at the old pads and the wear marks
and applied brake grease to those areas on the caliper itself so it went
direct to the needed areas. Thats on the backing plate of pads to caliper contact points.
Also did the ends where the pads sit in the bracket.

Failure to change/flush the brake fluid every few years or less CAN lead to moisture
in the system and RUST, which then gets into the caliper and makes the piston stick or hang
Just because you can push it in does not mean it is working right.
Also the use of tools other than the kind that pushes EVENLY on the piston to retract it -can push it in crooked.

Looking at the old pads will tell much. Like Marcus said, if there is substantial wear on one side- guess what!

 

And I am a Racing Brake+Hawk HPS pads devotee
No Noise, very low dust, less than the OE pads they replaced
Stops or makes quick whoa-downs effortlessly and immediate

 

I applied grease to the pins, as well as the backing plate on the pads. Before the grease was actually applied all areas were cleaned with a metal brush.

Flushing the system is a POSSIBILITY, so I could try that.

Has anyone actually rebuilt a caliper before? If so, how much trouble is it exactly?

Thanks for the response, bro. I really appreciate it. I'm sure with all the help here, I'll get it figured out.

 

Did you grease at the pads end contact with the caliper bracket, thats where the pads really moves
Still dont understand pins- must be different than my car

Flushing the fluid is next, suck out the fluid with a new turkey baster, not the kitchen one (dont ask the repercussions of ~borrowing~ "tools" from the kitchen
Fill res with nice clean new fluid and watch what comes out the bleeder- use clear 1/4 inch tubing- if it looks really bad- you may have a real problem.

Rebuilding a ~assumed rusty~ caliper- if you have to ask you dont have the tools needed.
Brakes are very important, buy a rebuilt unit from parts store.

Do the green pads have an unconditional warranty?

 

#22 & #23 are the pins I'm referring to.

But if the caliper has been damaged by rust or any other type of debris, then flushing the system really won't do that much good.

I don't necessarily agree with your caliper rebuilding assumption....I mean, there isn't much to a caliper.

I don't think they have a warranty like that....but honestly I don't think the pads have anything to do with this.

 

Flushing the fluid may fix your problem OR reveal the presense of contaminated fluid. Then you know if there is likely a problem inside.

To rebuild a caliper you must have the skills/tools to do a super fine polish on the cylinder walls for the caliper piston- this is assuming some rust has formed.
While its an easy job- it requires skill and care since brakes are the most importantr part of the car

Just did a search of local parts stores and found rebuild kits for $20 and replacement calipers from $45-120

 

As for the pins in the diagram- those are the retaining bolts, on my car they screw in and tighten.
The backing plates and pad ends are the main things to lube

If all else fails- go to PepBoys and buy the Hawk HPS for 100 bucks and be done with it.

 

When it's all said and done, I will be flushing the system. It's never been done, so I'm sure it needs it.

Those are not the retaining bolts. #22 & #23 are the slide pins that fit into the rubber boots on the back of the caliper. The two different retaining bolts you're referring to are #14 & #17 in that diagram. I'm not trying to bash you, but you're just a bit confused on what is what.

I found a rebuilt caliper online for $75, but I'm sure I can find cheaper. As for buying new pads...that's not an option. I just spent $100 for a complete set of EBC's so I'm not paying $100 again...The EBC's are fine. The pad isn't part of the problem in this situation. I would almost guarantee it. Thanks for the help, bro.