Ok guys so sometime last week I put some gas in my tank, I turned the car on and like usual my ac turned on, as I was leaving the parking lot my ac just completely stopped blowing out of the vents, all of the controls still worked but nothing was coming out, so I turned the ac on and off and it came back on, that was about two weeks ago

so I go to get in my car today and nothing, no ac at all nothing will blow out of the vents, I turn the key to the second notch and it sounds like something is turning on (Im guessing something to do with the ac, not sure what its called but Its normal) and then it will stop, it is like it is trying to turn on but cant

If anyone would have any advice on what is going on and how to replace it I would greatly appreciate it, Thank you

 

Are you getting airflow out any of the vents at any speed, or are you getting good airflow; just not cooled air?

 

Not getting any airflow at all

 

sounds like the cabin fan is messed up- that may be the sound you are hearing
follow the DIY for cabin filter replacement to get to it--behind the glovebox-
not as difficult as it seems

also known prob with the power wire connector for the fan, it can get hot and melt
back of connector- cause wire to be loose,,,start diagonistic there with a quick visual under glovebox

 

do you leave the fan on 5 when you shut off the car?

the ac compressor has a cutoff system during engine start so thats not the prob it was on older cars
but the high fan speed definetly pulls juice/heat thru the wires and if that connector is bad....
Do you switch modes- change where the air goes with fan on max speed?

 

As far the sound goes I think it was just the compressor or w.e it is that runs the ac, I hear that at the begining but it just dies out like its out of battery almost,

I do not leave the ac on full blast EVERY time when I turn the car off but I know I have before, it is rarely off when ever I shut the car off, and it would usually stay on the same mode, I did not change air flows or anything like that very often

 

ever changed the cabin air filter?- you wouldnt believe what gets into there and can also jam the fan
acura says do every year,,,many cars still never done,,, after 10 years!

the ac compressor on the engine- open hood and watch how it engages with ac on

 

the fact you run the fan on high a lot means ck the power wire for it- very common prob
acura sells a kit with longer wires (its a tight fit stock, which may aggravate the situation)
and new connectors for under 20 bucks

 

I have never changed the filter, It sounds like that the compressor is turning on when the car does but shuts off really quick, I really hope its not the compressor

is this what u are talking about http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base

sorry if it is way off but I found that that item fixed a couples peoples ac's in a thread in 09

 

thats what goes out sometime--usually if the power connector got really really bad melted- shorting out,,,it takes the next part of the system with it

remove cabin filter to access the fan assembly and ck everything
resistor is mounted to fan plate back side
buy a cabin filter 20 bucks, comes 2 in the box- they sit side by side in a plastic pullout tray between the fan and the system

 

Hey man I REALLY appreciate you helping me out with this,

Ok so far I snapped some pics of the resitor, It is deff corroded but not shur how bad it is

here are some pics





I have the glovebox off so I am able to take pics of w.e is needed Im just not too sure what I am looking at

 

here are some pics of the cabin air filter

 

use the shop vac to get as much crud out of the system as possible
You didnt believe me until you saw all that eh!

hows the power connector for the fan? thats what melts

 

guru's: is that arcing between the soldered parts on lower left of pic?
indication of blown resistor?

 

I know thanks again man it was so dirty in there, this actually convinced my friend to change his filter also and his is a 99

the power connector I was not able to check yet, I was not for sure where it was but tomorrow I am going to locate it and update with some pics

 

are you talking about the pic of the circuit board or w.e it is called? if you are I did not think it looked normal either

 

Just do the A/C Troubleshooting AUTO Test and Avoid Guessing!




If its Problem "N" You´ll need the Wiring Kit 01tl4tl Mentioned before...

If there are any other DTCs Just come back with the Codes and Ill Post the Pages You need.

 

Wow was not aware of that, thanks man! ill have to out my ac back together tomorrow and do this, thanks bro!

 

No Prob! 01tl4tl was Mentioning the Power Cables to the Fan Blower its a Common problem for our Cars that the Wire Burn and Make False contact making the blower malfunction.

Just put your head where the Feet of the Passengers should be and Youll see a Round Object just below the Glove box. There should be 2, 8AWG Wires coming out of the Round thing! If they looked burned or the Socket is Burned They need to be Replaced!

If they Are not Burned check Continuity on the Blowers Socket to see if its fryied..

 

look on back of the power connector- sometimes the damage hides

the circuit board is what I think looks damaged
anyone with replaced part please confirm?

 

I think he just need to Re-Solder those 3 spots, The thing (Cant Remember the Name) that Protects the Solder seems to have liquified from Heat and Its making a Small Capacitor (If I recall Right my High-School Electronic Classes).

Any RadioShack will sell it (Flux-Something Perhaps?) Mehh just tell You need something to Protect the Solder Point in a form of Liquid.

 

I thought the black marks were bad
and each unit has seperate solder- not a full coverage- just the ends

 

Hey guys sorry for the late update but here it is:

I did the test and this is what I got



So would that be K ?

A problem in the air max control linkage, door, or motor



This is when it gets really weird
Since I had all my parts back together I decided to turn the ac on
and BOOM it turns on, I have not checked it in a couple hours but I think I remember reading that someone just mest with the wires a little bit and theirs started working again

do you guys know what is going on?

 

Skirmich, I have the problem code N also but I have continuous fan (won't shut off). My AC works and the blower wires and socket look fine. Also checked my resistor and it appears fine too (although I do question one of the ohms readings between the 3 solder points.) I'll try to continuity test on the blower socket you mentioned. If this comes back good, do you know of anything else I can troubleshoot for my fan stays on problem? Thanks.

 

For clarification, the brown between the soldered pins on that blower resistor board is normal. Its left over flux from manufacturing and unless the solder joints look "cloudy", and not shiny, they should not need to be reflowed.

 

When the fan doesn't shut off, its the transistor on the resistor board. Does the blower start up as soon as you turn the key even with the climate control turned off? I believe mine went bad after accidentally leaving the climate control on with a burnt blower harness. The transistor is screwed to that heatsink that was pictured above. The heatsink is positioned so that when the blower is on, its blowing air over it to keep it cool. Anyway, don't buy a new resistor board unless you are unable to solder. You won't be able to find the exact replacement to the transistor, but there are plenty with similar specs. Here is the one I used.

 

That code K is for the air mix control linkage. That weird noise you here is the motor trying to turn, but something is blocking it. You can fix it pretty easily, or you can buy a new one for $100.

It's weird that no air is coming out of the vents though. It shouldn't control flow, as it should just control temperature. Check out the motor to confirm.

It's under the passenger side glovebox, toward the center console. You'll see a white tab trying to move when you turn on the car.