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Mystery, initially at 40 mph then also at 50 mph, now more
I am not sure how to describe it. I have recently replaced a number of malfunctioning parts and thought I finally reached utopia then I noticed a shifting problem around 40 mph (actually 41 which is really annoying in traffic). Maybe a little delay then it would shift. Also the RPM gauge bounced until it decided to shift up or down. Then around 50 (more like 47 or 48) the car would do the same thing. I reasoned that the computer was not telling the car to shift at the correct speed and hence the issue. I had the nearest Acura dealership put it on a scanner. But the computer was fine, they reasoned t was most likely the transmission slipping. So off I go to a tranny shop (really hard to determine which one has skills), and on that day the car decided to produce a random misfire so they concluded (rather adamantly) it was an engine problem. They noticed an error for the 3rd gear pressure switch (never showed a light on the dash though). I replace the 3rd and 4th switches and the bouncing RPM stopped. It still slips at those city driving speeds and I get an occasional flck at highway speeds.
As the problem continues I think to myself, "it could be ...." Then I say, "can't be that, I replaced it a few months ago."
No error codes on the dash or on my scanner. No noises. Ran a smoke machine around the intake manifold, found and fixed 2 leaks, but problem continues.
I can accelerate at a consistent speed through those numbers and not have a problem, but If I end up behind stop and go traffic, the simple act of hitting the brake and accelerating kicks me into the "slipping" issue.
Maybe a chunk of dirt in a fuel line, or an air bubble, or a new injector is clogged. I'm out of guesses. Do you have any?
From your description the misfires have stopped and no error codes. I don't like to say this but the slipping and delayed shifting is how my transmission behaved on the way out. Usually the 3rd gear is where the problem pops up. When we took mine apart there was a gear that was scored and the first (or last depending on how you look at it) clutch plate was practically brand new and showed no signs of fluid ever reaching that clutch plate in the 3rd pack housing. Do you still have the slipping if you use the manual mode shifting (this causes an increase in fluid pressure) does the slipping still occur? How does the tranny fluid look?
Yep, no error codes. The dealer changed the fluid I asked them about a 3x3 flush that I saw in my search for answers but they said they don't do that. Also, they didn't change the trans oil filter because everything drains out of the plug below. Doesn't seem correct but that was the Acura trained tech. I tried manual mode when the issue started and if I remember correctly it still delayed.
First, when I had the problem I heard whining coming from my torque converter, when I got the transmission removed I was able to see more of the clutch material from the torque converter in the fluid. After debating with myself over either changing the whole transmission and converter for either a BAYA transmission from an 06-07 Accord or rebuilding the old unit. I decided to go with rebuilding the transmission, using a new torque converter, and adding a shift kit that is supposed to fix the fluid flow problem in the original transmission. After taking the transmission apart we found 1 bad gear where the race was damaged and the internal filter had a lot of buildup causing further flow issues. So, I did not run the car much after it started slipping due to hearing the torque converter.
The reason I asked if manual mode was doing the same thing is if it isn't that would point to a higher internal pressure working and although it is not recommended that you play with the solenoid pressures they can be increased.
Your dealer tech should go back to working for QuickLube. There are two transmission filters, one is internal to the transmission and one is external. The external one should be changed and that should be part of any transmission fluid service. As that filter gets plugged up it will decrease the fluid flow through the system and this can cause damage to the transmission. Since you don't appear to do the work yourself, I would take the vehicle to another shop and have them do a full transmission fluid service; which should include the external filter.
There are some online posts that say they were having slipping problems and they went a got a power flush of the system. To me that would be the last resort as I am not sure of the effectiveness of the procedure but if the slipping was getting worse I would probably try that before paying for a rebuilding or replacing
the transmission.
I hope it helps but my experience may not be the same as yours. Use caution when trying to make a direct comparison. There is more information, there are in line strainers in the pressure control transmission solenoids. There is one on the top of the engine and one on the side facing the front. The one facing the front of the car is for 3-4 and 4-5 gear. Once removed there is a hole that the fluid flows through and in that hole is a small pipe with a screen inside. Supposedly several people have had problems solved by removing the solenoid and pipe and cleaning the screen. You can also be having a problem with the pressures switch(s). Others here should be able to chime in on their experiences and thoughts, always remember you are the one that has the car so the best we can offer is what we think. Some of the same symptoms can have different causes. I put some pictures below to show where the parts are, you can also search on the forum, there is a lot of information here, there is a great thread on replacing the transmission with a BAYA unit from an Accord that contains a lot of information. It is pinned as a FAQ.
Shows locations My transmission arrows show the position of solenoid C and pressure switches.
Great pictures. I saw a clip on cleaning the small screens, the solenoid, did not try yet but did the pressure switches.
I just finished doing a repaint so I hadn't run the car in a few days. First thing i noticed was slipping while crawling out of the driveway. Seems a little bogged down as well.
Tried manual mode again, jerked also.
Did a visual inspection on the fill plug and filter. I expected some tool marks or less dirt.
Slipping and bogged down in multiple gears not just 3rd to 4th but in reverse and 1st also, is that correct?
When you are idling do you hear any noises, whining, thudding, vibration, changes in noises between putting it in drive and neutral?
Is the dashboard indicators for Park, Reverse, Drive1, 2 etc. blink at all?
Reverse seems fine. 20mph seemed like a long wind up. In auto and manual the dash reflects the gear.
I just saw an Azine video of cleaning the screens where the guy described difficulty shifting between gears. Only the center screen was dirty in his video. Seems like a reasonable fix to try.
It is always best to start simple. Given that, I never asked if you checked the fluid level after the car was warmed up, in park, turned off, and on a level surface? I had a transmission place once change the fluid in a car I had, picked it up and started driving only to feel something wrong. Turns out they drained the tranny and never refilled. Always check.
The dash lights will blink for some errors.
I just cleaned the screens. Did not see chunks, just caked dirt. The fluid was up, but from within the solenoid the fluid looked less red and more brown. Did a quick spin trying to force a delay and it did not. However, after I drove a bit it seemed to develop the dirty feel again.
I think a full fluid change again would help as well as external filter change.
Sounds like a good plan. The dual solenoid on the top of (the clutch pressure control solenoids A&B) has 3 of those pipe screens underneath, if you didn't clean these you should. In case you don't have the service manual, here is the link to download. It is a large file. The section on the transmission is 14 and other information is scattered throughout. There is good information to read and there are basic tests you can do on the solenoids.
Clean that solenoid this morning. Clearly did not have the gasket I was thinking of. I must have viewed a CL video.
It looked like the screen was integrated and not something I could pull out so i cleaned as is.. Immediately noticed yesterday's improvement vanish.
Labors around 20, then jerks. Next jerk in the upper 40's. It also flicked at 61. I think I even had an event at a higher highway speed heading to work.
The gasket has an embedded screen and not to be separated so you did right in just cleaning the screen but besides that gasket is one pipe, if I remember correctly it also has a screen. See the picture below it is #5.
I believe that the pipe number 5 also has a screen.
You should read the thread https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1...n-swap-905115/
Read through the section of the manual (14) that address testing the different solenoids. There are tests in there that you can perform and some that require special test equipment but you can do some with a ohm meter.
After that I would be try to find a place that can do a power flush before resigning myself to investigating and investing in a new torque converter and transmission replacement. I will try to find my old thread on what I did in rebuilding mine but there are plenty on these forums.
I continue to wish you the best in getting this fixed.
The possibilities are still there so you should eliminate every less costly possibility but given the history of these types of transmission problems with these generation of Acura's you need to be prepared for the worst. Sorry to say that. Everything you have described is what has been seen here over and over again, few get resolved, specially for the long term, without replacing the transmission system in one form or another.
After cleaning the front solenoid I looked at the diagram and realized I cleaned something different, so I corrected my error and it does perform better. I have Acura oil and an external filter on order for hopefully the final step.
The nightmare begins.
An update from my reman install;
Just did 2 nd drain and fill with new filter .
Fluid looked new with very little gunk on plug.
The third trans from Street Smart seems good so far , one year and about 7k miles.
So after cleaning, replacing the external filter, doing a 3x flush, I went to a dealer who did a 4th flush with and additive to treat the gear "pads." They said run it for 600mi then replace if it doesn't improve. "We likely can't find the parts to rebuild."
I've gone well beyond 600 mi and it runs just fine now, except in stop and go around 35 mph. For the dollars and time, I'll live with it for now.
Wish you luck with that but if it comes back you can still get parts for a rebuild, they may not be OEM but they can be rebuilt unless you decide to go with a the Accord AV6 swap.
About two weeks ago on a cold start the engine revved like it was on a jet airplane. I turned it off, waited and tried again. A few days later a slightly different bad cold start occurred ... like the last time I used an aftermarket part. I immediately thought of the TPS swap I did a few months earlier. Once I installed an OEM TPS the transmission became 100% happy again.
09-14-2023, 09:05 PM
