Misfire with no CEL or DTCs?
Misfire with no CEL or DTCs?
Hey guys I think I am having a small misfire on my 01 TL-P. There's no check engine light, and I've run a scanner on it with no codes and no misfire data. I changed my spark plugs with NGK plugs back in January 2011.
Is there anyway possible that one of the coils could be bad/weak and not setting a DTC?
Symptoms:
- At idle the car seems to idle a tad bit on the rough side and every once in a while you'll feel like the engine misfires on 1 cylinder quickly.
-MPG are sub par at 19-20mpg.
-Car has 169k and the valves were never adjusted. Do you think adjusting the valves would help?
Is there anyway possible that one of the coils could be bad/weak and not setting a DTC?
Symptoms:
- At idle the car seems to idle a tad bit on the rough side and every once in a while you'll feel like the engine misfires on 1 cylinder quickly.
-MPG are sub par at 19-20mpg.
-Car has 169k and the valves were never adjusted. Do you think adjusting the valves would help?
done the egr port system cleaning yet?- needed every 75kmiles -those clog with exhaust carbon and causes symptoms you describe
Simple under 2 hour `at casual pace` DIY
and YES!!!!!!!!!!! adjust the valves,,a few to several are tight and a few are loose by now
use a GO-NO GO feeler guage for accurate results first time
used correct ngk for your engine?--type S different heat range
and they were the 8 buck each platinum or iridium/iridium ix??
Simple under 2 hour `at casual pace` DIY
and YES!!!!!!!!!!! adjust the valves,,a few to several are tight and a few are loose by now
use a GO-NO GO feeler guage for accurate results first time
used correct ngk for your engine?--type S different heat range
and they were the 8 buck each platinum or iridium/iridium ix??
make a day of DIY with valves, egr in intake manifold, service the TB- IACV idle control on bottem of it
that takes advantage of overlapping labor on parts removal to access other part
also lube the throttle cables entirely, and the TB throttle return spring assembly
have you seafoamed the gas tank and vac port--that fixes many things related to carbon buildup
that takes advantage of overlapping labor on parts removal to access other part
also lube the throttle cables entirely, and the TB throttle return spring assembly
have you seafoamed the gas tank and vac port--that fixes many things related to carbon buildup
note: I would seafoam the oil and change oil and filter before valve adjust-
you want the rear sealing edges clean so accurate setting is obtained
169 and never done internal cleaning?--install new oil filter- add 1/2 can seafoam and drive 100-200 miles
change oil and filter with oil warm
you want the rear sealing edges clean so accurate setting is obtained
169 and never done internal cleaning?--install new oil filter- add 1/2 can seafoam and drive 100-200 miles
change oil and filter with oil warm
the coils are easily damaged during plug change- do you remember setting one down hard on the workbench? that will do it a few months later
A weak/damaged coil may not throw a code yet- but these other items need to be addressed in diagnosis,,are they done or still needed
A weak/damaged coil may not throw a code yet- but these other items need to be addressed in diagnosis,,are they done or still needed
done the egr port system cleaning yet?- needed every 75kmiles -those clog with exhaust carbon and causes symptoms you describe
Simple under 2 hour `at casual pace` DIY
and YES!!!!!!!!!!! adjust the valves,,a few to several are tight and a few are loose by now
use a GO-NO GO feeler guage for accurate results first time
used correct ngk for your engine?--type S different heat range
and they were the 8 buck each platinum or iridium/iridium ix??
Simple under 2 hour `at casual pace` DIY
and YES!!!!!!!!!!! adjust the valves,,a few to several are tight and a few are loose by now
use a GO-NO GO feeler guage for accurate results first time
used correct ngk for your engine?--type S different heat range
and they were the 8 buck each platinum or iridium/iridium ix??
And as for the NGK plugs, I used the ones that were like $3. Not the platinums. And yes they were for an 01 Tl-P.
I'll try and do my valve adjustment this summer when I have free time at work.
note: I would seafoam the oil and change oil and filter before valve adjust-
you want the rear sealing edges clean so accurate setting is obtained
169 and never done internal cleaning?--install new oil filter- add 1/2 can seafoam and drive 100-200 miles
change oil and filter with oil warm
you want the rear sealing edges clean so accurate setting is obtained
169 and never done internal cleaning?--install new oil filter- add 1/2 can seafoam and drive 100-200 miles
change oil and filter with oil warm
the coils are easily damaged during plug change- do you remember setting one down hard on the workbench? that will do it a few months later
A weak/damaged coil may not throw a code yet- but these other items need to be addressed in diagnosis,,are they done or still needed
A weak/damaged coil may not throw a code yet- but these other items need to be addressed in diagnosis,,are they done or still needed
no reason to spend 300 on coils you dont need!!
WHEN you are ready to do valve adjust, seafoam the oil- it will clean the areas you will be working,, so no sludge residue to mess up the measurement
the 3 buck plugs MAY FIT but ARE NOT the approved and correct plug for our system!
you really need NGK Iridium, Iridium IX or the stock Platinum which I think cost more than Irids now!
But get those plugs out today and the correct parts in- it will return to smooth running
You may feel slight changes as seafoam does its thing thru gas
WHEN you are ready to do valve adjust, seafoam the oil- it will clean the areas you will be working,, so no sludge residue to mess up the measurement
the 3 buck plugs MAY FIT but ARE NOT the approved and correct plug for our system!
you really need NGK Iridium, Iridium IX or the stock Platinum which I think cost more than Irids now!
But get those plugs out today and the correct parts in- it will return to smooth running
You may feel slight changes as seafoam does its thing thru gas
Trending Topics
Hmmm ok thanks!
I just did my Thermoblock spacer and cleaned the IM and EGR out today. I was speechless when i saw the amount of crud that was in the intake manifold.... It looked like no one had touched it since 2001 when the car was new..... =( But I got it all cleaned up and it runs like a champ!! But I still need to change out the plugs to the NGK Iridium plugs next sometime.
Thanks for the advice!
I just did my Thermoblock spacer and cleaned the IM and EGR out today. I was speechless when i saw the amount of crud that was in the intake manifold.... It looked like no one had touched it since 2001 when the car was new..... =( But I got it all cleaned up and it runs like a champ!! But I still need to change out the plugs to the NGK Iridium plugs next sometime.
Thanks for the advice!
Well changed the plugs to Irridium IXs yesterday and the car runs smoother, but I still have a slight shaking at idle. You can barely feel it, but it's there. My 02 Accord 4 cyl had this same exact problem, and I could never figure it out. Maybe I need to adjust my valves...
I think one of my mounts is worn because when I turn off the car, I feel a vibration. When I pull out my transmission this summer to rebuild it, I will inspect all the mounts.
front mount tends to go early as 60kmiles! get under the car and look for oil trail from mount,,strange small drip on driveway under radiator?
front and rear are vac boosted and oil fluid filled!!,,a bad one causes mystery vac leak and engine miss
iacv- on bottem of TB, you removed the cover and the actual rod that rotates- cleaned the `air slit` in the rod and cleaned the chamber it rides in?
front and rear are vac boosted and oil fluid filled!!,,a bad one causes mystery vac leak and engine miss
iacv- on bottem of TB, you removed the cover and the actual rod that rotates- cleaned the `air slit` in the rod and cleaned the chamber it rides in?
front mount tends to go early as 60kmiles! get under the car and look for oil trail from mount,,strange small drip on driveway under radiator?
front and rear are vac boosted and oil fluid filled!!,,a bad one causes mystery vac leak and engine miss
iacv- on bottem of TB, you removed the cover and the actual rod that rotates- cleaned the `air slit` in the rod and cleaned the chamber it rides in?
front and rear are vac boosted and oil fluid filled!!,,a bad one causes mystery vac leak and engine miss
iacv- on bottem of TB, you removed the cover and the actual rod that rotates- cleaned the `air slit` in the rod and cleaned the chamber it rides in?
Everything is dry under the car. So either all the oil has leaked over previously before I owned the car, or they are just worn... I'm gonna go ahead and replace the mounts though in the summer.
Ive done all modifications on my 99 tl. When my car is warmed up I turn it off and then turn it back on. It idles below 1k. Almost turnig off and sometimes it does turn off. Then after a few seconds to a minute it goes back to normal. I've done erg Port cleaning thermoblock spacers, replace all coils and spark plugs with Ngk platinum back in summer 2010. Also Replace front and left side mount. I HAvent done a valve adjustment yet and my car has 101k mil.
on the egr port cleaning- you removed the intake manifold from the engine and worked on it on the bench.. to poke a wire rod thru the manifold length ?
and the TB/throttle body- flipped it over and cleaned IACV/idle air control valve--its a tube with slit for air to go thru--gets clogged bad = bad idle air control~
seafoam gas tank: 1 can to half tank every year
do that twice, or do gas plus vac port (or thru TB) once a year
100kmiles and 11+ years,,I would get the tools out for a valve adjustment!!
You may even find the intake manifold bolts loose after the thermoblock install-
they do loosen slightly-enough to make it run funny
and the TB/throttle body- flipped it over and cleaned IACV/idle air control valve--its a tube with slit for air to go thru--gets clogged bad = bad idle air control~
seafoam gas tank: 1 can to half tank every year
do that twice, or do gas plus vac port (or thru TB) once a year
100kmiles and 11+ years,,I would get the tools out for a valve adjustment!!
You may even find the intake manifold bolts loose after the thermoblock install-
they do loosen slightly-enough to make it run funny
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jamus22
2G TL Problems & Fixes
24
Jun 11, 2023 10:08 AM




