misfire codes

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-02-2008, 01:41 PM
  #81  
DO WORK!
Thread Starter
 
09_Type-S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Age: 37
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
yea stupid parts source kids, they didnt have them on the shelf so he brought them from the back. ill go back and get the right plugs. im gettin my new rims today, wont get to drive it if i get a loaner hah.
Old 06-02-2008, 02:40 PM
  #82  
Team Owner
 
01tl4tl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 64
Posts: 33,535
Received 1,137 Likes on 1,067 Posts
which is better- to look good sitting on the side of the road and then the back of a tow truck, (take a car waxing kit, to pass the time waiting for the tow)
or drive a loaner while yours is in the shop
Old 06-02-2008, 03:14 PM
  #83  
DO WORK!
Thread Starter
 
09_Type-S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Age: 37
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
yea looks like thats what i gotta do thakns guys ill let you know what happends
Old 06-13-2008, 12:33 PM
  #84  
DO WORK!
Thread Starter
 
09_Type-S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Age: 37
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
just following up with the situation. so i went back to the autoparts store and exchanged the spark plugs for the correct ones. ZFR6FIX-11 are the correct ones for the Type-S, i had the ZFR5FIX-11 in my car. So i changed these and reset the lights, so far its been good no lights. I changed the plugs about 4 days ago. I hope this solves it.
Old 06-15-2008, 02:14 PM
  #85  
Something is missing...my
 
bibledriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Mexico
Age: 47
Posts: 1,081
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by 09_Type-S
just following up with the situation. so i went back to the autoparts store and exchanged the spark plugs for the correct ones. ZFR6FIX-11 are the correct ones for the Type-S, i had the ZFR5FIX-11 in my car. So i changed these and reset the lights, so far its been good no lights. I changed the plugs about 4 days ago. I hope this solves it.
Old 06-17-2008, 12:34 AM
  #86  
DO WORK!
Thread Starter
 
09_Type-S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Age: 37
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
haha spoke too soon, same codes as the first time! 300,301,304, 1399
Old 06-17-2008, 07:52 AM
  #87  
Something is missing...my
 
bibledriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Mexico
Age: 47
Posts: 1,081
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
well, maybe crank sensor. Maybe dealership. Wow, dont' remember if you've cleaned EGR ports.
Old 06-17-2008, 12:19 PM
  #88  
Team Owner
 
I hate cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 20,172
Received 1,812 Likes on 1,283 Posts
I know you're getting all of these misfire codes but how does the car drive? A misfire is most noticable on the freeway in the highest gear with the torque convertor locked on an auto or 6th gear on a manual and accelerating in top gear from say 50mph. If it's misfiring you will notice a shudder most likely.

How does your short and long term fuel trim look? A misfire will make the A/F go super rich when it happens. Over time your fuel trim may be pulling fuel to compensate.

Try closing the gap to about .020 as a test to see if you truly do have a weak coil somewhere.

You could've gotten water in the gas from a bad batch. It's very hard to get out even after many fill ups.

Does it happen mostly when you drive it hard, easy, cornering, etc?

Last, what does your compression look like? Losing any coolant?
Old 06-17-2008, 07:54 PM
  #89  
Something is missing...my
 
bibledriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Mexico
Age: 47
Posts: 1,081
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
my friend, I have to disagree with the gap thing. Iridium plugs are not to be gapped, end of discussion. They come at the proper gap and are fragile enough to be cracked if attempting doing so, then possibly sending a metal shard through the engine. Not good practice.

Bad gas I tend to agree with, which I think I posted a page ago, as a possiblity. Get a little diesel in the mix and watch out.

Other questions you mentioned I think are good too.
Old 06-17-2008, 08:03 PM
  #90  
Team Owner
 
I hate cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 20,172
Received 1,812 Likes on 1,283 Posts
Originally Posted by bibledriver
my friend, I have to disagree with the gap thing. Iridium plugs are not to be gapped, end of discussion. They come at the proper gap and are fragile enough to be cracked if attempting doing so, then possibly sending a metal shard through the engine. Not good practice.

Bad gas I tend to agree with, which I think I posted a page ago, as a possiblity. Get a little diesel in the mix and watch out.

Other questions you mentioned I think are good too.
My last set of iridiums were gapped all over the place. Pre gapped doesn't mean they're gapped right. I wouldn't even think of installing a set of plugs without checking the gap. If you have the proper tool, there's not a problem with gapping them.
Old 06-17-2008, 08:17 PM
  #91  
AZ Community Team
 
Legend2TL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 18,084
Received 4,230 Likes on 2,612 Posts
Do not regap the plugs, stick to the 1.1-1.2mm gap.

Also I would not replace the fuel injectors (auto parts roulette is not the ideal unless you are a dealership with test parts) , stick to the diagnostics of the problem first.

How do the new correct heat range plugs look?
Is it possible to post a picture of the plug?
Old 06-17-2008, 08:26 PM
  #92  
AZ Community Team
 
Legend2TL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 18,084
Received 4,230 Likes on 2,612 Posts
Originally Posted by bibledriver
Maybe not 100% accurate, otherwise Seafoam would likely not exist at this point. Yes, it all goes through. It is not oil that you are putting through that would end up hotspotting your cylinder. I looked at my plugs after doing Seafoam treatment. Contamination was hardly noticeable, if at all. IMO it is more of a guarantee for them. If you do both, you are sure to feel the difference, making their "tuneup" more successfully perceived by the user.

It is much more difficult to ruin a cat than you are letting on. I have seen oilburning cars with plenty of coating ability driving with no cat problems whatsoever, and that is constant "coating." Cats get so hot that if your engine is running right (not habitually misfiring) then it will last SUPER long time. My old honda had 312k miles on the original cat, and original injectors that barely passed Hydrocarbon testing if i ran the engine at high revs first (ie. fuel constantly going through the cat). No cat problems. If your engine runs wrong for a long period, then I agree it is bad for your cat. If you are misfiring, yes, lower temp. and chemical reactions may eventually render your cat "inoperable." However, there are thousands upon thousands of people that have seafoamed and I have yet to see an investigative report on "CAT KILLING TUNEUPS: TONIGHT @ 10." I know there are mixed emotions on chemicals though the intake, but this is just my

I used to get a lot of misfire codes on my 04 at high revs, when addressed, they reprogrammed the cpu to be less sensitive, as a directive from acura.
Consider yourself luckly. Most of the modern cars I've seen with oil burning into the exhaust typically get cat and O2 sensor failures eventually. Two Audi 1G S4 owners I know with turbo oil seal failures will atest to that. It's mostly a issue of how much oil is needed to overcome the cat.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm
"CAUSES OF CATALYST FOULING
To clean the exhaust, the catalyst inside the converter must be exposed to the hot exhaust gases. Lead, phosphorous and silicone can contaminate the catalyst and prevent it from working its magic. Lead used to be the most common contaminant, but is no more since it was eliminated from gasoline. Phosphorus is still a threat, and comes from motor oil. So if an engine is burning oil because of worn valve guides or rings, phosphorus will shorten the life of the converter. Blue smoke in the exhaust and an emissions failure are pretty good clues that the converter has been fouled with phosphorus.


The new "SJ" rated motor oils contain less phosphorus than earlier SH rated oils. The difference isn't much (about 20% less compared to SH oils), but over time the lower level of phosphorus reduces contamination to extend the life of the converter.

Silicone can find its way into the exhaust if the engine develops an internal coolant leak through a crack in a combustion chamber or a head gasket. Silicone will ruin the oxygen sensor as well as the catalytic converter, so chances are if the converter has been fouled the O2 sensor will also need to be replaced. White smoke in the exhaust is a clue that there's an internal coolant leak."


Old 06-17-2008, 11:58 PM
  #93  
Something is missing...my
 
bibledriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Mexico
Age: 47
Posts: 1,081
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by I hate cars
My last set of iridiums were gapped all over the place. Pre gapped doesn't mean they're gapped right. I wouldn't even think of installing a set of plugs without checking the gap. If you have the proper tool, there's not a problem with gapping them.
I check em before install too. They've all been fine for me. If you have to cut your gap in half to get a spark, you got some issues with coils. Sounds good for a jetski or somethin, but not on a direct ignition module setup.
Old 06-18-2008, 12:05 AM
  #94  
Something is missing...my
 
bibledriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Mexico
Age: 47
Posts: 1,081
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by Legend2TL
Consider yourself luckly. Most of the modern cars I've seen with oil burning into the exhaust typically get cat and O2 sensor failures eventually. Two Audi 1G S4 owners I know with turbo oil seal failures will atest to that. It's mostly a issue of how much oil is needed to overcome the cat.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm
"CAUSES OF CATALYST FOULING
To clean the exhaust, the catalyst inside the converter must be exposed to the hot exhaust gases. Lead, phosphorous and silicone can contaminate the catalyst and prevent it from working its magic. Lead used to be the most common contaminant, but is no more since it was eliminated from gasoline. Phosphorus is still a threat, and comes from motor oil. So if an engine is burning oil because of worn valve guides or rings, phosphorus will shorten the life of the converter. Blue smoke in the exhaust and an emissions failure are pretty good clues that the converter has been fouled with phosphorus.


The new "SJ" rated motor oils contain less phosphorus than earlier SH rated oils. The difference isn't much (about 20% less compared to SH oils), but over time the lower level of phosphorus reduces contamination to extend the life of the converter.

Silicone can find its way into the exhaust if the engine develops an internal coolant leak through a crack in a combustion chamber or a head gasket. Silicone will ruin the oxygen sensor as well as the catalytic converter, so chances are if the converter has been fouled the O2 sensor will also need to be replaced. White smoke in the exhaust is a clue that there's an internal coolant leak."


That's cool, man. Like I said, I am not going to argue with anybody (too much) about chemicals through intake. As for the random treatment, this is dumping MUCH less than a bad turbo shaft seal. Those things are pigs. Antifreeze, sure. Don't think that I will get too worried about the seafoam. Shoot, I have done 2 treatments. How about you Tommy boy? I am a lightweight in comparison to some. Any bad cats? I think that the money you would save on gas would buy you a new cat anyhow! Well, here I go arguing.
Old 06-18-2008, 12:32 AM
  #95  
Team Owner
 
I hate cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 20,172
Received 1,812 Likes on 1,283 Posts
Re-read my post, I said to close down the gap as a test, not as a cure.
Old 06-18-2008, 07:53 AM
  #96  
Something is missing...my
 
bibledriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Mexico
Age: 47
Posts: 1,081
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Sorry man.
Old 07-06-2010, 02:30 PM
  #97  
7th Gear
 
jwest2002's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Age: 63
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I believe I have the same problem, I change the plugs(NGK Iridium), Coils all six, EGR valve, Map sensor, Knock sensor, Oxygen sensor (upper stream)front and back
the codes still coming back after I reset the computer, the car idle is perfect even the engine run's great I cant understand way the codes keep coming back after I reset the computer......................
Old 08-17-2010, 01:18 PM
  #98  
Cruisin'
 
ysr84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Toronto, Canada
Age: 40
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
cyl1

[QUOTE=09_Type-S;9186020]got the VSA and CEL lights on my 03TLS a few time and i got the codes read.

P0301 cyl 1 misfire
QUOTE]


HOW do you know which one is Cyl 1???
I have a 2002 TL Type S
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jamus22
2G TL Problems & Fixes
24
06-11-2023 10:08 AM
MilanoRedDashR
3G TL Problems & Fixes
2
10-02-2015 10:49 AM
thegipper
3G TL (2004-2008)
5
09-28-2015 01:01 PM
shawnafoxx
1G RL (1996-2004)
2
09-28-2015 12:33 PM
mars
1G TSX (2004-2008)
1
09-28-2015 11:03 AM



Quick Reply: misfire codes



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:05 PM.