misfire codes
#81
DO WORK!
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Age: 37
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yea stupid parts source kids, they didnt have them on the shelf so he brought them from the back. ill go back and get the right plugs. im gettin my new rims today,
wont get to drive it if i get a loaner hah.
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#82
which is better- to look good sitting on the side of the road and then the back of a tow truck, (take a car waxing kit, to pass the time waiting for the tow)
or drive a loaner while yours is in the shop
or drive a loaner while yours is in the shop
#84
DO WORK!
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just following up with the situation. so i went back to the autoparts store and exchanged the spark plugs for the correct ones. ZFR6FIX-11 are the correct ones for the Type-S, i had the ZFR5FIX-11 in my car. So i changed these and reset the lights, so far its been good no lights. I changed the plugs about 4 days ago. I hope this solves it.
#85
Something is missing...my
Originally Posted by 09_Type-S
just following up with the situation. so i went back to the autoparts store and exchanged the spark plugs for the correct ones. ZFR6FIX-11 are the correct ones for the Type-S, i had the ZFR5FIX-11 in my car. So i changed these and reset the lights, so far its been good no lights. I changed the plugs about 4 days ago. I hope this solves it.
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#88
Team Owner
I know you're getting all of these misfire codes but how does the car drive? A misfire is most noticable on the freeway in the highest gear with the torque convertor locked on an auto or 6th gear on a manual and accelerating in top gear from say 50mph. If it's misfiring you will notice a shudder most likely.
How does your short and long term fuel trim look? A misfire will make the A/F go super rich when it happens. Over time your fuel trim may be pulling fuel to compensate.
Try closing the gap to about .020 as a test to see if you truly do have a weak coil somewhere.
You could've gotten water in the gas from a bad batch. It's very hard to get out even after many fill ups.
Does it happen mostly when you drive it hard, easy, cornering, etc?
Last, what does your compression look like? Losing any coolant?
How does your short and long term fuel trim look? A misfire will make the A/F go super rich when it happens. Over time your fuel trim may be pulling fuel to compensate.
Try closing the gap to about .020 as a test to see if you truly do have a weak coil somewhere.
You could've gotten water in the gas from a bad batch. It's very hard to get out even after many fill ups.
Does it happen mostly when you drive it hard, easy, cornering, etc?
Last, what does your compression look like? Losing any coolant?
#89
Something is missing...my
my friend, I have to disagree with the gap thing. Iridium plugs are not to be gapped, end of discussion. They come at the proper gap and are fragile enough to be cracked if attempting doing so, then possibly sending a metal shard through the engine. Not good practice.
Bad gas I tend to agree with, which I think I posted a page ago, as a possiblity. Get a little diesel in the mix and watch out.
Other questions you mentioned I think are good too.
Bad gas I tend to agree with, which I think I posted a page ago, as a possiblity. Get a little diesel in the mix and watch out.
Other questions you mentioned I think are good too.
#90
Team Owner
Originally Posted by bibledriver
my friend, I have to disagree with the gap thing. Iridium plugs are not to be gapped, end of discussion. They come at the proper gap and are fragile enough to be cracked if attempting doing so, then possibly sending a metal shard through the engine. Not good practice.
Bad gas I tend to agree with, which I think I posted a page ago, as a possiblity. Get a little diesel in the mix and watch out.
Other questions you mentioned I think are good too.
Bad gas I tend to agree with, which I think I posted a page ago, as a possiblity. Get a little diesel in the mix and watch out.
Other questions you mentioned I think are good too.
#91
AZ Community Team
Do not regap the plugs, stick to the 1.1-1.2mm gap.
Also I would not replace the fuel injectors (auto parts roulette is not the ideal unless you are a dealership with test parts) , stick to the diagnostics of the problem first.
How do the new correct heat range plugs look?
Is it possible to post a picture of the plug?
Also I would not replace the fuel injectors (auto parts roulette is not the ideal unless you are a dealership with test parts) , stick to the diagnostics of the problem first.
How do the new correct heat range plugs look?
Is it possible to post a picture of the plug?
#92
AZ Community Team
Originally Posted by bibledriver
Maybe not 100% accurate, otherwise Seafoam would likely not exist at this point. Yes, it all goes through. It is not oil that you are putting through that would end up hotspotting your cylinder. I looked at my plugs after doing Seafoam treatment. Contamination was hardly noticeable, if at all. IMO it is more of a guarantee for them. If you do both, you are sure to feel the difference, making their "tuneup" more successfully perceived by the user.
It is much more difficult to ruin a cat than you are letting on. I have seen oilburning cars with plenty of coating ability driving with no cat problems whatsoever, and that is constant "coating." Cats get so hot that if your engine is running right (not habitually misfiring) then it will last SUPER long time. My old honda had 312k miles on the original cat, and original injectors that barely passed Hydrocarbon testing if i ran the engine at high revs first (ie. fuel constantly going through the cat). No cat problems. If your engine runs wrong for a long period, then I agree it is bad for your cat. If you are misfiring, yes, lower temp. and chemical reactions may eventually render your cat "inoperable." However, there are thousands upon thousands of people that have seafoamed and I have yet to see an investigative report on "CAT KILLING TUNEUPS: TONIGHT @ 10." I know there are mixed emotions on chemicals though the intake, but this is just my
I used to get a lot of misfire codes on my 04 at high revs, when addressed, they reprogrammed the cpu to be less sensitive, as a directive from acura.
It is much more difficult to ruin a cat than you are letting on. I have seen oilburning cars with plenty of coating ability driving with no cat problems whatsoever, and that is constant "coating." Cats get so hot that if your engine is running right (not habitually misfiring) then it will last SUPER long time. My old honda had 312k miles on the original cat, and original injectors that barely passed Hydrocarbon testing if i ran the engine at high revs first (ie. fuel constantly going through the cat). No cat problems. If your engine runs wrong for a long period, then I agree it is bad for your cat. If you are misfiring, yes, lower temp. and chemical reactions may eventually render your cat "inoperable." However, there are thousands upon thousands of people that have seafoamed and I have yet to see an investigative report on "CAT KILLING TUNEUPS: TONIGHT @ 10." I know there are mixed emotions on chemicals though the intake, but this is just my
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I used to get a lot of misfire codes on my 04 at high revs, when addressed, they reprogrammed the cpu to be less sensitive, as a directive from acura.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm
"CAUSES OF CATALYST FOULING
To clean the exhaust, the catalyst inside the converter must be exposed to the hot exhaust gases. Lead, phosphorous and silicone can contaminate the catalyst and prevent it from working its magic. Lead used to be the most common contaminant, but is no more since it was eliminated from gasoline. Phosphorus is still a threat, and comes from motor oil. So if an engine is burning oil because of worn valve guides or rings, phosphorus will shorten the life of the converter. Blue smoke in the exhaust and an emissions failure are pretty good clues that the converter has been fouled with phosphorus.
The new "SJ" rated motor oils contain less phosphorus than earlier SH rated oils. The difference isn't much (about 20% less compared to SH oils), but over time the lower level of phosphorus reduces contamination to extend the life of the converter.
Silicone can find its way into the exhaust if the engine develops an internal coolant leak through a crack in a combustion chamber or a head gasket. Silicone will ruin the oxygen sensor as well as the catalytic converter, so chances are if the converter has been fouled the O2 sensor will also need to be replaced. White smoke in the exhaust is a clue that there's an internal coolant leak."
#93
Something is missing...my
Originally Posted by I hate cars
My last set of iridiums were gapped all over the place. Pre gapped doesn't mean they're gapped right. I wouldn't even think of installing a set of plugs without checking the gap. If you have the proper tool, there's not a problem with gapping them.
#94
Something is missing...my
Originally Posted by Legend2TL
Consider yourself luckly. Most of the modern cars I've seen with oil burning into the exhaust typically get cat and O2 sensor failures eventually. Two Audi 1G S4 owners I know with turbo oil seal failures will atest to that. It's mostly a issue of how much oil is needed to overcome the cat.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm
"CAUSES OF CATALYST FOULING
To clean the exhaust, the catalyst inside the converter must be exposed to the hot exhaust gases. Lead, phosphorous and silicone can contaminate the catalyst and prevent it from working its magic. Lead used to be the most common contaminant, but is no more since it was eliminated from gasoline. Phosphorus is still a threat, and comes from motor oil. So if an engine is burning oil because of worn valve guides or rings, phosphorus will shorten the life of the converter. Blue smoke in the exhaust and an emissions failure are pretty good clues that the converter has been fouled with phosphorus.
The new "SJ" rated motor oils contain less phosphorus than earlier SH rated oils. The difference isn't much (about 20% less compared to SH oils), but over time the lower level of phosphorus reduces contamination to extend the life of the converter.
Silicone can find its way into the exhaust if the engine develops an internal coolant leak through a crack in a combustion chamber or a head gasket. Silicone will ruin the oxygen sensor as well as the catalytic converter, so chances are if the converter has been fouled the O2 sensor will also need to be replaced. White smoke in the exhaust is a clue that there's an internal coolant leak."
http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm
"CAUSES OF CATALYST FOULING
To clean the exhaust, the catalyst inside the converter must be exposed to the hot exhaust gases. Lead, phosphorous and silicone can contaminate the catalyst and prevent it from working its magic. Lead used to be the most common contaminant, but is no more since it was eliminated from gasoline. Phosphorus is still a threat, and comes from motor oil. So if an engine is burning oil because of worn valve guides or rings, phosphorus will shorten the life of the converter. Blue smoke in the exhaust and an emissions failure are pretty good clues that the converter has been fouled with phosphorus.
The new "SJ" rated motor oils contain less phosphorus than earlier SH rated oils. The difference isn't much (about 20% less compared to SH oils), but over time the lower level of phosphorus reduces contamination to extend the life of the converter.
Silicone can find its way into the exhaust if the engine develops an internal coolant leak through a crack in a combustion chamber or a head gasket. Silicone will ruin the oxygen sensor as well as the catalytic converter, so chances are if the converter has been fouled the O2 sensor will also need to be replaced. White smoke in the exhaust is a clue that there's an internal coolant leak."
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#95
Team Owner
Re-read my post, I said to close down the gap as a test, not as a cure.
#97
I believe I have the same problem, I change the plugs(NGK Iridium), Coils all six, EGR valve, Map sensor, Knock sensor, Oxygen sensor (upper stream)front and back
the codes still coming back after I reset the computer, the car idle is perfect even the engine run's great I cant understand way the codes keep coming back after I reset the computer......................
the codes still coming back after I reset the computer, the car idle is perfect even the engine run's great I cant understand way the codes keep coming back after I reset the computer......................
#98
Cruisin'
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cyl1
[QUOTE=09_Type-S;9186020]got the VSA and CEL lights on my 03TLS a few time and i got the codes read.
P0301 cyl 1 misfire
QUOTE]
HOW do you know which one is Cyl 1???
I have a 2002 TL Type S
P0301 cyl 1 misfire
QUOTE]
HOW do you know which one is Cyl 1???
I have a 2002 TL Type S
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