yea i just threw in the new coils. I talked with a mechanic at the dealership and he told me that bad coils are most likely the problem because he took it for a drive and said its just probably misfiring here and there. So i put those in and pulled the fuse and havent had any lights yet.

 

damm lights on again...will check for codes again

 

same codes again:

300
301
304
1399

what else could it be?

 

Where did you throw in the coils? You may not have replaced the correct one.

 

these are the ones i changed, and this is how the cylinders go facing the firewall:

Rear of car

123
456

Front Bumper

right..... so i changed 1 and 4. since i got code 301, 304.

 

Fuel injectors is the next option, then.

 

Shoot, take em out and get your money back.

Fuel injectors is the next option, then. Run it down till you have the fuel light and then throw in seafoam, say a half can, drive for thirty miles on the hwy, then Fill up.

How many tanks of gas have you had the misfire problems? just wondering if you may have gotten some bad gas that wreaked havoc. Hell, about 30% of the gas stations in Albuquerque got bad gas (deisel mixed in) about 2 mos. ago and sent thousands of cars to the shop at the price of over $1000 a piece at the expense of Western Refinery. If you remember where you got gas when it happened, and if it happened soon after filling at some point, it is possible to get that problem. Might Call that station and ask some ?s

 

Dont understand you numbers- i think your peoblem is in the numbering
Try This
Standing in front of car with your right hip against bumper so you are facing the same way as the engine sits with front to passenger side
Left side of engine- front of car- is cyls 1 3 5, 5 being towards the radiator overflow bottle
rear set is 2(passenger side) 4 6 towards the brake master cylinder
does that make sense?
try the new coils on the correct cyls and reset the ecu then drive
may help!!!
front of engine-
front of car 1------- 2 firewall side of car
front 3--------4 firewall
front 5--------6 firewall

 

heh, good times. but even wrong, he would have gotten one right. his 4 is your 1

 

back to the ol standby- remove one coil and install new coil- test
not it- remove and try next plug with good coil

thats my best guess-

 

if not coils, it is on to injectors. Try them in the right cyl, and get us back. What a pain. Wish it was something like, "I fell on my knee, now it hurts. What's wrong?" heh.

 

sooo 246 and the rear pistons if im facing the car and 135 are the front pistons?

 

And also our cars are NOTORIOUS for throwing random misfire codes on cyls that arent bad. Thats why we usually say to start out with one and do the trial and error method of replacing 1 at a time and working our way around the motor. 99.9 percent of the time its just 1 bad coil

Oh and this is the way the cyls are counted on the tl

firewall
123
456
grille/radiator

firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6

 

so i have changed the correct ones according to fsttyms1.

123
456

 

YES BUT it may not be those that are bad. Like i stated before our cars like to show random misfires but often its not the cyl that the codes are showing. Thats why we like to buy 1 and work our way around with that. Its 99.9% of the time just 1.

 

DOH!!! I'm sure I saw on azine that the numbering was like a V8 with left bank being number 1???

well dont I look stupid now-- ok some of you think I always look stupid~

 

ok i will use the good one to rotate around and see if i can get rid of this problem

 

Remember to reset the ecu after every time to make sure its not the same code coming back.

 

ok swapped the coils around the whole engine, still throwin the 301 and 304 codes. next step is injectors?? what do i do. ive installed spaers b4 so im guessin i just pull the injectors out and replace with new ones?

 

would running a few bottles of injector cleaner help or is that a waste of money?

 

Do not pull the injectors!!!!! Guaranteed to cause a problem somehow
Fuel cleaner works best when used at max dose- like seafoam is 2 oz to 1 gallon of gas in tank, or 1, 16oz can to 1/2 tank of gas is cleaning dose

Have you pulled the plugs on the alleged cylinders to see if they look black or somehow improperly gapped? They are supposed to be set at factory- but can be dropped and thats the end of that!!

At this point- it is worth it to have the dealer check the codes with their equipment- its different scanner than whats available to the public or the ones used to check codes at auto parts stores for you.
The dealer may come up with something entirely different that you are getting, or interpret the codes different.
Codes are NOT diagnosis- they are merely CLUES as to whats happening---could be anything at this point since you have tried every method of coil swapping.
It will be 100 bucks well spent on professional evaluation and advice
Make a list of everything you have done- seafoam- plugs coils etc at what miles- on a note for the tech- left inside the car. Inlclude where the new coils are installed just so they know!
The service writer cannot relay all the details you can write down instead

I dont remember- how are you gettting these codes read anyway?

 

Actually, I don't have the first clue as to what you look like.

 

Plugs is a quick easy check. Thought they were new, but won't hurt to check 'em out. Remember not to yank em out if your engine is not cold (only pull them cold not if warm or hot).

 

he gave the numbers in that metric stuff~
110kms now, foamed 5kms ago, new ngk Irid at 70km
so thats about 70,000 miles now
did the plugs at 50 and foam 2-3000 ago
So it would be due for the 2nd foaming of the vac line and gas tank- your right on that matt
It was getting bad gas mileage before foam, slightly better after
now the vsa and something else light with multi misfire codes

 

gas mileage is pretty good i have about 1/4 tank left and ive drove 370km all city. already and ive been going pretty agressive on the throttle. so take it to the dealership is what you guys recomend. i think i might just do that, im sick of tinkering around with it.

 

so i pulled out my spark plugs today, i have a type-s motor and the plug i have is the NGK iridium ZFR5FIX-11, i looked on the NGK website looks like the type-s needs a ZFR6FIX-11....they both have a 0.044 gap. i believe the 5 and 6 mean heat range. could this be a possible problem?

 

Yeah, I suppose that there are more factors. Sensors and stuff all play in, so maybe they can get a better/quicker read. Would hate if you tore in to injectors and that wasn't the problem. Not to mention, I don't think that injector problems are as common on these cars. I am sure that fsstyms1 will vouch, but is probably on his originals and well over 200k mi (300k km).

 

I am not sure that it would. People use diff range plugs often. Maybe if you went hotter with the plug, but probably not if you went with a colder plug, IMO. How many km did you say you had on those plugs?

 

these plugs are brand new. about 1K on them.

 

just read the codes again, now getting misfires on 301,302,303,304,305

 

yeah, that is odd, did you reset the ecu every time you moved the coil?
If so, it sounds like it may be a crank sensor starting to fail possibly.

If not, then you need to reset it every time as mentioned above.

 

Sure answers the injector question as a negative.

Did you answer my gas question ever, or did I mis that?

 

yea have been resetting everytime, and always running shell 91 octane, i did install a UR lightweight pulley about 6K ago, woudl that effect that crank sensor?? also she is due for timing belt

 

Did you ever phone the station you use to ask?

Worth a shot. Can you relate its symptoms closely to a fill up?

 

i never have phoned a station, i dont belive i can relate the symptoms close to a fill up. but this could be a possibiliy... also is it safe to be driving my car right now im heading back to work which is about a 200k journey and then back here after a few days 400k total

 

well, being that the codes are increasing, I would hate for it to become a failure and leave you on the side of the road. If it were me, I would take a different car, if possible.

 

aaah Dont you love it when the final clue is given!!!

There has been issue with the UR pulley on certain gen3s- contact Excelerate and ask Josh about that- or di a search here- I dont recell the fix- maybe a reprogramming of something?
iirc
You have the wrong HEAT range spark plugs for the type S motor with its higher compression engine. They specify a different heat range for a reason- not just to sell plugs~

If the plugs are sitting there in your hand- take them back to the store and ask why they gave you the wrong parts. Then install the right plugs

 

Don't think that you would have jacked the crank sensor if you didn't have the whole timing cover off. Shouldn't affect it. Don't think your T belt would cause that either.

 

looooooaner cars for trips are awesome!~
Call acura cananda and ask if any recalls or bulletins on this problem- you cant be alone
Matt may have it right- crank trigger + ur pulley

When you did the pulley install, did you reset the ECU then?

 

cool, hadn't heard about that UR thing. Cool, and maybe applicable.

Agree about the plugs. Since it is wrong, might as well try that since they are so new.