SO the same chirping noise that haunts me is back again. this chirping noise is very low and mild when the engine is running, but goes ham when i turn on the windshield defogger/defroster, or when the a/c is turned on, especially when recirculating. Problem is I've already replaced the tensioner pulley twice, the last time with the bearing as well. Still the chirping is coming from that area. Anybody else experience this ratchet noise?

 

Have you tried replacing just the alt/AC belt? OEM goes for about $40. Also, could be a bad bearing in either the A/C compressor or alternator. Try pulling the belt off and spinning each of the pulleys by hand; make sure they free spin and that they're not making any noise.

 

I havent tried that yet ngl :/ what ive noticed is that when i pull the window switch up even though my windows are already shut, my lights dim a little sometimes until i let it go, and the screech gets a little faster or louder at times too. ill have to change my belt then since i havent changed that since i got the car with 142k miles on it. previous owners were dueches

 

ck the alternator bearing with a mechanics stethoscope
and recheck that replaced tensioner for the belt
just because its new doesn't mean its still good!

dim lights at idle indicate weak ground, or poor alt output, or battery issue

 

Well, my battery is relatively new, i do have crud on my terminals though, i think it could be my actual wiring thats bad? in regards to the stethoscope method, ive seen that so many times on here, but im not sure where exactly it is that im supposed to actually place the stethoscope flat on. Kind of a noob in some things. Thats one of them. lol My car when turning on though, it feels and sounds rather sluggish. It actually takes maybe an extra crank when its actually gonna turn on. I feel as if its a rather weak ignition. Would that be something related to these symptoms/minor problems?

 

you may need new batt wires- its definitely old enough
when crud grows on the batt terminals it means the battery is outgassing- the acid vapor is attracted to the terminals

That means its time to remove and clean terminals, then head to a battery or parts store for a system test
May be OVER charging the battery- causing it to bubble and boil and vent gasses!
those gasses equal lost fluid from the battery = not cool

A part can be new or recent and still fail
When a battery fails and the car is driven some distance- it can kill the alternator
or the voltage regulator as alt tries to keep the car running

 

a mechanics stethoscope does not have a flat part.... lol!!!!!!!!!!!
the end is a probe like a meat thermometer
place the pointed tip against the non- moving portion of any part you want to listen to
A rough gravel sound is bad bearing
smooth rhythmic- even train track click can be normal depending on what is being part tested- its all about the smoothness and steadiness of the sounds

Listen to a few parts to compare, ie: touch probe to ac belt tensioner pulley base- listen, then test alt in several places

 

Another thing I've seen is old rubber inside the grooves of the pulley that accumulate with older belts and wont let the new belt seat properly. You can use a flat head to scrape off the excess.
Tip: Make sure you have your splash shield installed.

 

as usual ^^^^ good info!

 

Yikes. My splash shield is in a better place now. I will be doing this belt replacement this week hopefully. I will update on any symptoms or changes. And as far as the alt bearings, ill check those out too

 

sorta relevant...


But on a warm start, I get a mild chirping/whirring noise when ever I press on the gas... After I start picking up speed the noise goes away but comes back after I stop at a light and start going again...


Any ideas on what this probably is??

 

What brand belts do you have ? If its Good Year gator backs replace it with an original style belt, those gator back belts are noisy.

The chirp could the tensioner going bad.

 

I have an OEM belt.. hasn't been changed in a WHILE!!


But I'll be sure to replace the tensioner when I replace my water pump and timing belt...

 

the tbelt tensioner is a totally unrelated and different part than the ac belt tensioner~
DO replace ALL tbelt (and ps) related tensioners and rollers when you do that job

In the mean-time the ac belt tensioner is right on top, and not that bad a diy
access thru passenger side fender liner

 

The chirp on my 2003 was the Belt Tensioner starting to go bad. I put my fingers on the alternator and realized some roughness. I replaced the tensioner and all was quiet again. Also the after replacing the tensioner, I noticed that when the Air Conditioner pump came on there was less JERK on the belts. All was much smoother and quieter.

 

Yes, that belt runs the AC compressor- when its tensioner is going bad- the belts are not held in smooth tension

 

So thw tensioner and the tensioner pulley are different things? Cuz ive replaced yhe pulled with the bearing and it only gets worse. I dont even crank the ac anymore cuz of how ratchet it sounds

 

its possible to buy the parts separate, but its wise to replace the arm which is the tensioner and the roller pulley the belt rides on - it has its own bearing
Usually it comes as one unit- preassembled

a new belt never hurt with tensioner assembly replacement
and ck the main bottom pulley for old belt remains (rubber wear marks) on it

 

have you picked up a mechanics stethoscope yet?
4$ at harbor freight tools, or 10$ at any parts store in town

listen to the parts of the tensioner, listen to the ac compressor
You will know by the sound what's good and what's not
compare to other bearing noises around the engine to learn - if needed

 

i actually havent dude. I just got engaged, and apart from that ive been worried about rubbing and scrape issues with my new fitment and stuff. gotta get that stethoscope asap! so i guess this tool is a self explanatory process once i have it in front of me? and as for the actual tensioner arm, is there a brand i outta get or are they all just as effective?

 

I used the tensioner they sold at local parts store
other ziners shop online to save a few dollars

The stethoscope has a rod with a pointed tip, like a meat thermometer
Place tip against what you want to listen to!
put other part in ears~

 

ill hopefully get to that asap! tell me how my new wheel, TOYO tires are basically garbage cuz they been rubbing on the inner sides of the firewall mesh/wheel well. Im so pissed.

 

sounds like someone ordered the wrong size rim and tire combo- the rim center hub offset being critical
did you look at the diy section - has thread on allowed rim sizes/offset required to clear the fenders

 

well thats been taken care of today i just hear a slight noise here and there when stopping. not sure if cai or if its a slight rubbing, or sliding per say of the wheel against something. anywho, bought me that stethoscope today. feeling like a doctor hearing my car breathing. still not sure where to actually stick the prong while running to hear the tensioner

 

place the tip of probe on the tensioner arm and behind the roller parts bearing. Pick a few spots,,, you will get the hang of it quickly.
compare to other bearings like alternator

bad bearings sound like gravel grinding up, good ones have rhythmic sound

Optional: wearing of long white coat may not speed diagnosis, but will mess with the neighbors head!!

 

so the tensioner arm would be up top above the belt? and i considered that since i already have medical gloves to work on my car in my trunk lol.

 

the tensioner arm is the part moving wildly = trying to keep the roller wheel in contact with the ac belt

Its base is where the bolts hold it all to the engine

 

imma really need to see this in the daytime light -_-