Greetings all, I am new here, and have found the forums to be very informative. Thank you!




I have been doing some research in regards to the transmission problems so many of us have been experiencing. I came across someone who was told by their dealer that it wasn't just a transmission problem that it was actually a bad computer problem and their dealer replaced the computer and the transmission; apparently they have not experienced any more problems.

When I approached our dealer about this possibility I was told instantly it was not a computer problem. However we are currently in the process of getting our third transmission replacement (we already had the oil jet kit put in and began having more problems ten months later). My faith in our Acura has definitely been shaken and I am concerned for future problems not only with the transmission but with other parts of the engine due to wear and tear as a result of these problems. Given the circumstances pertaining to our experience, I am not willing to believe that this third transmission will be any different from the first two. When we inquired about what exactly is wrong with the transmission we get the run around.


Personally, I am going to document a request that my dealer inspect my Acura's computer for any defects or problems that can result in possible transmission failures or complications. We are at 75,000 miles and we have had nothing but problems related to the transmission since we bought the car so it can't hurt to have this checked out. It doesn't seem like what is being done is working considering so many are on their third and fourth transmissions. An extended warranty is great but it does not appear to be fixing the problem which will still be OUR problem in the long run!

I am having my computer in my TL checked out by the dealer as well as by an outside specialist in relation to my transmission problems based on research I have done as well as considering the following information pertaining to the functionality of Automatic transmissions. This is just what I'm doing and thought maybe it could help others out who are seeking permanent resolution of their transmission woes. Best wishes!
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Is there a chance that it's not the transmission at all?

*note: The more recent transmissions are totally under computer control. Partial or complete failure of the computer is rather uncommon, but computer problems can manifest themselves as transmission problems.

I found that in other instances where people experienced transmission problems with other cars their dealers ran extensive diagnostics and pronounced the transmission just fine: the problem was in the little electronic brain. I was skeptical, after researching this they appear to be right. Their computers were sent out for regrooving and repair; apparently everything returned to normal. I can't help but wonder if our "transmission problems" with our cars are actually computer problems. I am now wondering if a "rebuild" is really what I needed this third time around! I encourage others to investigate this possibility as well, that way we can possibly take collective action!
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Diagnosing Transmission Problems MUST READ!!

A Short Course on
Automatic Transmissions
by Charles Ofria

Computer Controls:


Solenoid Pack




The computer uses sensors on the engine and transmission to detect such things as throttle position, vehicle speed, engine speed, engine load, brake pedal position, etc. to control exact shift points as well as how soft or firm the shift should be. Once the computer receives this information, it then sends signals to a solenoid pack inside the transmission. The solenoid pack contains several electrically controlled solenoids that redirect the fluid to the appropriate clutch pack or servo in order to control shifting. Computerized transmissions even learn your driving style and constantly adapt to it so that every shift is timed precisely when you would need it.

Because of computer controls, sports models are coming out with the ability to take manual control of the transmission as though it were a stick shift, allowing the driver to select gears manually. This is accomplished on some cars by passing the shift lever through a special gate, then tapping it in one direction or the other in order to up-shift or down-shift at will. The computer monitors this activity to make sure that the driver does not select a gear that could over speed the engine and damage it.

Another advantage to these "smart" transmissions is that they have a self diagnostic mode which can detect a problem early on and warn you with an indicator light on the dash. A technician can then plug test equipment in and retrieve a list of trouble codes that will help pinpoint where the problem is.

Transmission repairs:

* Adjustments and In-Car Repairs
There are several problems that can be resolved with an adjustment (A simple adjustment is one that can be made without removing the transmission from the vehicle.) or minor repair.

If a late model transmission (computer-controlled transmissions started becoming popular in the early '90s) is not shifting properly, it is often the result of a computer sending incorrect signals due to a faulty sensor, or the transmission is not reacting to the computer command because of a bad connection or defective solenoid pack. These problems can be corrected while the transmission is in the car for considerably less money then a complete overhaul.

If a non computer-controlled transmission is shifting too early or too late, it may require an adjustment to the throttle cable. Since throttle cables rarely go out of adjustment on their own or due to wear and tear, these mis-adjustments are usually due to other repair work or damage from an accident. If the vehicle has a vacuum modulator instead of a throttle cable, there is an adjustment that can be made using an adjustment screw in some modulator designs. In vehicles with modulators, however, it is very important that there are no vacuum leaks and the engine is running at peak efficiency. Engine vacuum is very sensitive to how well the engine is running. In fact, many technicians use a vacuum gauge to diagnose performance problems and state-of-tune. Many problems that seem to be transmission problems disappear after a tune-up or engine performance related repair was completed.

In some older transmissions, bands can be adjusted to resolve "slipping" conditions. Slipping is when an engine races briefly when the transmission shifts from one gear to the next. There are no adjustments for clutch packs however.
* Reseal job
A transmission is resealed in order to repair external transmission fluid leaks. If you see spots of red oil on the ground under the car, your transmission may be a candidate for a reseal job. In order to check a transmission for leaks, a technician will put the car on a lift and examine the unit for signs of oil leaks. If a leak is spotted at any of the external seals or gaskets and the transmission otherwise performs well, the technician will most likely recommend that the transmission be resealed.
Most of the external seals can be replaced while the transmission is still in the car but, if the front seal must be replaced, the transmission must first be removed from the vehicle in order to gain access to it, making it a much costlier job.
* Replace accessible parts
There are a number of parts that are accessible without requiring the removal of the complete transmission. many of the control parts including most of the electrical parts are serviceable by simply removing the oil pan. The parts that are accessible, however, vary from transmission to transmission and most transmission repair facilities would hesitate to provide meaningful warrantees on external repairs for the simple reason that they cannot see if there are any additional internal problems in the components that are only accessible by transmission removal.
* Complete Overhaul
In a complete overhaul (also known as rebuilding a transmission), the transmission is removed from the vehicle and completely disassembled with the parts laid out on a workbench. Each part is inspected for wear and damage and then either cleaned in a special cleaning solution, or replaced with another part depending on its condition. Parts that have friction surfaces, such as bands and clutches are replaced as are all seals and gaskets. The torque converter is also replaced, usually with a remanufactured one. Technical service bulletins are checked to see if the auto manufacturer recommends any modifications to correct design defects that were discovered after the transmission was built. Automobile manufacturers often make upgrade kits available to transmission shops to resolve these design defects.
* Replacement unit vs. overhaul existing unit
When a transmission requires an overhaul, there are generally two options that you may have. The first is to remove your existing transmission and overhaul it, then put the same, newly rebuilt unit back in your car. The second option is to replace your existing unit with another unit that has already been rebuilt or remanufactured.
The second option will get you out of the shop and on your way much faster but may cause you problems down the road. The reason for this is that, in some but not all cases, a particular transmission model can have dozens of variations depending on which model car, which engine, which axle ratio, even which tire size. The problems you could experience could be as simple as a speedometer that reads too high or too low (the speedometer is usually connected by cable to a gear in the transmission output shaft.) You may also experience incorrect shift points or even complete transmission failure because your engine may be more powerful then the one the replacement unit was originally designed for. This is not the case with all transmission models so voice your concerns with your technician. Most shops will rebuild your existing unit if you request it as long as they can afford to have a lift tied up with your car while the transmission is being rebuilt. Of course this is only important if you are sure that the transmission you have is the original one and has never previously been replaced.


Copyright © 2000-2004, SmartTrac Computer Systems, Inc.
All Rights Reserved.

Read Full Article Here




Solenoid Information!


This article is about the coil of wire. For the mathematical topological group, see Solenoid (mathematics).

Various solenoids
Enlarge
Various solenoids

A solenoid is a loop of wire, often wrapped around a metallic core, which produces a magnetic field when an electrical current is passed through it. Solenoids are important because they can create controlled magnetic fields and can be used as electromagnets.

In physics, the term solenoid refers specifically to a magnet designed to produce a uniform magnetic field in a volume of space (where some experiment might be carried out).

In engineering, the term solenoid may also refer to a variety of transducer devices that convert energy into linear motion. The term is also often used to refer to a solenoid valve, which is an integrated device containing an electromechanical solenoid which actuates either a pneumatic or hydraulic valve, or a solenoid switch, which is a specific type of relay that internally uses an electromechanical solenoid to operate an electrical switch; for example, an automobile starter solenoid, or a linear solenoid, which is an electromechanical solenoid.

Electromechanical solenoids

Electromechanical solenoids consist of an electromagnetically inductive coil wound around a movable steel or iron slug (termed the armature). The coil is shaped such that the armature can be moved in and out of the center, altering the coil's inductance and thereby becoming an electromagnet. The armature is used to provide a mechanical force to some mechanism (such as controlling a pneumatic valve). Although typically weak over anything but very short distances, solenoids may be controlled directly by a controller circuit, and thus have very low reaction times.

The force applied to the armature is proportional to the change in inductance of the coil with respect to the change in position of the armature, and the current flowing through the coil. The force applied to the armature will always move the armature in a direction that increases the coil's inductance.

The magnetic field inside a solenoid is given by:

B = μ0NI,

where μ0 = 4π×10 - 7 henries per metre, N is the number of turns per metre, and I is the current in amperes. See Electromagnet.

Electromechanical solenoids are commonly seen in electronic paintball markers, and dot matrix printers.

Rotary Voice Coil

This is a rotational version of a solenoid. Typically the fixed magnet is on the outside, and the coil part moves in an arc controlled by the current flow through the coils. Rotary voice coils are widely employed in devices such as disk drives.

Pneumatic solenoid valves

A pneumatic solenoid valve is a switch for routing air to any pneumatic device, usually an actuator of some kind. A solenoid consists of a balanced or easily moveable core, which channels the gas to the appropriate port, coupled to a small linear solenoid. The valve allows a small current applied to the solenoid to switch a large amount of high pressure gas, typically at around 100 psi (7 bar, 0.7 MPa, 0.7 MN/m²).

Pneumatic solenoids may have one, two, or three output ports, and the requisite number of vents. The valves are commonly used to control a piston or other linear actuator.

The pneumatic solenoid is a kind to a transistor, allowing a relatively small signal to control a large device. It is also the interface between electronic controllers and pneumatic systems.

Hydraulic solenoid valves

Hydraulic solenoid valves are in general similar to pneumatic solenoid valves except that they control the flow of hydraulic fluid (oil), often at around 3000 psi (210 bar, 21 MPa, 21 MN/m²). Hydraulic machinery uses solenoids to control the flow of oil to rams or actuators to (for instance) bend sheets of titanium in aerospace manufacturing.

The basics of solenoid valves

Solenoid valves are the most frequently used control elements in fluidics. Their tasks are to shut off, release, dose, distribute or mix fluids. They are found in many application areas, for example: Fast and safe switching, high reliability, long service life, good medium compatibility of the materials used, low control power and compact design.

Besides the plunger-type actuator which is used most frequently, pivoted-armature actuators and rocker actuators are also used.

Solenoids in fiction

* The use of the word solenoid (particularly in science fiction) could be grouped in with other terms such as conduit, socket, firewall, capacitor, wormhole and laser to lend some kind of scientific/engineering credibility from a lay person's perspective.

* In the anime and manga series Neon Genesis Evangelion, one plot device was a "Super Solenoid Engine" (or S²), a limitless power source.

* In Steven Spielberg's 2005 War of the Worlds movie, the alien tripods disable all flow of electric current in a wide area, thus rendering vehicles useless; the problem is fixed by replacing the solenoid, a weak deus ex machina.

* In Gene Roddenberry's Andromeda TV-Series, an AP (for Anti-Proton) Solenoid Valve is used to control the flow of the anti-protons which are used to power the ship and propel it through space. In the Episode "The Vault of The Heavens" (3.18), Engineer Harper orders Trance to shut it, filling the AP tanks to capacity, then expelling it quickly, thereby accelerating the ship much more than normal.

External links

* Solenoid Basics for Robotics
* Discussion of Solenoids at Hyperphysics
* Basics of Rotary Voice Coils

This entry is from Wikipedia, the leading user-contributed encyclopedia. It may not have been reviewed by professional editors (see full disclaimer).

For complete Solenoid Article click here

AMTRANS: Automatic Symptoms CLICK HERE

I found this site to be interesting....
The "A" Team

 

I think you need to read more of the info on this forum. Also you would find that the oil jet was not intended to solve this issue, and the fact that you had problems 10 monts later had nothing to do with it

A. the new redesign so far has shown to have solved the problem.
B. its not a computer problem.
C. its not a solenoid problem.

Dealers usually have no clue as to whats going on, especially service dept advisors. The dealers dont repair these trans them selves and have little clue as to whats going on with them. Its a clutch pack problem. The clutch packs are wearing out too fast, due to their size and not enough cooling.

 

Thank you for your reply. I am simply providing information based on my experience and based on what a service manager at an Acura dealer told someone who had the same problem. I have made a decision to give what the Acura representative said some possible credibility. I guess according to what you are saying is that he is incorrect.

Questions:
A. The new redesign that you said has been put nto use with no problems has been since when and for how long has the transmission been successful in the vehicles that have had replacement? Can you please provide some info about the new design and what has been changed and what its' success has been in terms of duration without problems?

B. How do you know it is not a computer problem specifically. How has it been ruled out specifically. I would just like to reference this as true.

I am not so much concerned with the debate in the forums as I am with finding some specific documentation about what you have communicated to me.

It's great to know that the people at the dealership have as you stated "no clue what's going on", which further makes me question what they are telling me.

Regardless of what THE PROBLEM IS... it is a HUGE inconvenience to the consumer. As far as the oil jet kit is concerned, I'm sure you got the letter about it and regardless the TRANSMISSION IS STILL BAD I don't care what the reason is it is ridiculous that coming home from vacation my car started jerking and giving me trouble with my kids in a car that was bought new for 40,000 dollars, was recently serviced for transmission problems, and had been taken in seven times before that and is NOW being repaired for the same problem again. I shouldn't have to do any research about alternative possibilities but due to the continuous problems I am still going to seek documentation that it is NOT a computer problem from my Acura dealer as well as an outside specialist. I will also inquire about the clutch pack as you have mentioned. Thank you kindly for your time.

 

The redesign came out in feb of 05. Those with it haven't had any problems yet. What exactly went into it? I do know there was a redesign in the plates and a shaft to allow for more cooling.

How do i know its not the ecu, ive seen the parts and talked to trans shops. Its a design problem. Honda themselves have admitted to it. (including the 5 failures i had with and with out the ecu upgrade. None of the other clutch packs are wearing at the rate the 3rd gear is.

The oil jet Does fix a problem and its alot more major than the little failure you get with teh 3rd gear packs wearing out. Its for the 2nd gear shaft that could over heat and sap. If that happens the front wheels lock up and you lose all control over the car. To my knowledge No one here has had that problem.

If you read more of the recent threads you will read all the info on it. (what info we have)

and like i said, the dealer and service dept only speculate and say stuff to make it sound like they know what the problem is, which in reality they dont. They DO NOT repair these trans, they dont even get to open them up. All they do is replace them.

 

Thanks so much for posting this junk 3 times.

 

I apologize for being an inconvenience. It's great to see that there are such nice people around here. I didn't say anyone had to read what I posted. I simply was seeking answers to questions the dealers and customer service can't answer. Maybe if this wasn't such a continuing problem consumers like myself (who spend forty thousand dollars on a car that has never worked right), wouldn't have to waste their time researching and posting such nonsense. Oh, and believe it or not I met with my dealer this week and there seems to be some validy to what I posted, though it may not apply to everyone's situation. GOOD DAY!

 

Bonafide_TL, please remember that Acura dealership service managers also work for Acura, and they have company policies to abide to. So what they told you may not be the whole story. They don't want you to spread news around to ruin the brand's reputation. In addition, I doubt that anyone, even dealership mechanics and managers, knows the true problem with our trannies except for those Honda engineers working on the problem back in Japan and US headquarters. The reason is that dealerships are not allowed to open up failed trannies which have to be shipped back to the head office in one piece to get warranty reimbursements.

 

it's already widely known that it's a faulty clutch pack in our tranny that's the source of the problem.

 

This is more than just a faulty clutch pack. If it is this simple, first iteration of the factory rebuilt trannies, with new clutch packs, would have solved the problem years ago, and we won't see repeated failures and further factory fixes over the years.

Throughout the many iterations of factory rebuilt trannies, fixes such as new clutch packs, improved oil filtration, widened oil passages, new PCM programs, etc. (not including those not known by the outsiders) have been added in stages, all because it's more than just a faulty clutch pack.

However, Honda would like the general public to perceive that this is just a clutch pack issue, and not a design engineering issue.

 

Sorta. Yes its a design problem, but its a design problem of the clutch pack and its cooling. The clutch packs that came out of one of my trannies were mic'ed and they weren't that far worn from factory spec new, 3rd on the other had were gone and the plates were cooked.(blue from heat) Also i think if they were to enlarge 3rd like the other gears there wouldn't be a problem (or as bad)

 

correct me if I am wrong, but aren't all clutch's the same size and Raybestos is the only true manufacturer of clutch packs in the world. wouldn't you need to add more clutch's in our trannies to provide longer service life?

 

No they arent all the same size

 

well thickness wise they are, diameter can be larger slightly.

 

I don't know if they are thickness off had with out looking at the manual, but i know dia wise they arent. And dia wise is what would allow more heat dissipation (just like BBKs do)

 

I'm new to this site and I need a little help. I purchased a '03 3.2 TL with 57k miles on it in August of this year. After having this car for 4 months I started to experience transmission problems yesterday. The engine malfunction light came on and it slipping. I took it to a local repair shop here in Atlanta the specifically works on Acuras. I had a diagnostic done on it and it came back with 3 different codes. P0740-Torque converter P0730- Incorrect gear ratio and P0780-Shift Malfunction and was told I needed a new transmission and it was gonna be $1800. WOW!! I then found out from a friend that there was a recall on this particular model. I called the 800 number for Acura client services and was informed that the recall ended in July of this yr. and that I was pretty much out of luck. I called back and spoke to two other people and the last one told me that it had been repaired but he doesn't have the info on when it was done. I called the dealer that I bought the car from and he told me that Acura has to repair it again. I asked this guy, "Did you know about the recall?" his response was, "Knowing about it isn't the point, Acura has to repair it anyway. There's a 100k mile warranty on them." I really don't know what to believe or do at this point. I just don't understand how the transmission is giving me problems after having it for four months. Any suggestions?

 

Ok, I've been sitting by and now I have a question related to all this. My '99 has a slight "hesitation" in the shift between 2nd and 3rd gear, especially when cold. It's almost like a slip. The car has 145,000 miles. What options do I have about a remedy for this situation? Thanks!

 

It's the beginning of the end. My car had the same symptoms and they gradually got worse. Take it to your dealer and have them take a look and confirm that it's bad. They might be able to help you out with getting it replaced. Just be polite and speak specifically with the Service Manager. There are some instances that they will cover the transmission replacement fully or at least partially. Hopefully you get covered.

 

a 99 with 145k miles!! thats outta warranty~
You can ask for help from the dealer- they have been know to go halves or better with many customers- retail price is 4 grand installed

Your other chouce is the AA---trans shop for a rebuild at about 2500$

read the Tranny Failure Thread here for great advice on dealing with the dealer

 

Thanks guys, I've read the threads about all of that stuff. So how long do you think I can hold out on a replacement if I take it easy on her? And I know there's no "quick fix" for burnt clutches, but is there anything I can do to help it along until the inevitable? Thanks!

 

my 99tl with 145,000 had slow upshifts back in january of 07' and i instantly knew i was in deep crap b/c the warranty wouldnt cover it. didnt have the money so i just kept driving it. around april of 07' the slow upshifts were still there but it also would slam into 3rd very hard. after that the first day it went below zero in the winter, it slammed into every gear on the downshift. it wouldnt get out of ist gear the next day! i left the car at home and went away to college. now that im back i sent her to a trans shop and they siad i had a busted power converter. idk how trannies work but is that the same as the clutch pack?

 

my 99tl with 145,000 had slow upshifts back in january of 07' and i instantly knew i was in deep crap b/c the warranty wouldnt cover it. didnt have the money so i just kept driving it. around april of 07' the slow upshifts were still there but it also would slam into 3rd very hard. after that the first day it went below zero in the winter, it slammed into every gear on the downshift. it wouldnt get out of 1st gear the next day! i left the car at home and went away to college. now that im back i sent her to a trans shop and they siad i had a busted power converter. idk how trannies work but is that the same as the clutch pack?

 

my 99tl with 145,000 had slow upshifts back in january of 07' and i instantly knew i was in deep crap b/c the warranty wouldnt cover it. didnt have the money so i just kept driving it. around april of 07' the slow upshifts were still there but it also would slam into 3rd very hard. after that the first day it went below zero in the winter, it slammed into every gear on the downshift. it wouldnt get out of 1st gear the next day! i left the car at home and went away to college. now that im back i sent her to a trans shop and they siad i had a busted power converter. idk how trannies work but is that the same as the clutch pack?

 

If all that's bad is your torque converter then you got lucky!

 

No not really. All the stuff thats in the tq converter just went into the trans. Usually when the tq codes come up the trans should be riped apart and redone.

 

Wouldn't the internal screen trap that stuff though? But I guess even if it did, the transmission would have to be taken apart anyways to clear all of the debris.