My wife 2001 tl low beam head burned out.In the owners book it says to have them changed at the dealer. I will try it my self if I new how. Has anyone changed these out themselves, also the low beams are HID correct? thanks ahead of time

 

welcome to the forum
you will find several DIYs on the headlights,,and many threads if you scroll thru the main area and probs and fixes sections

but first we need to know:
was there a pink or purple tint to the bulb recently at startup? thats age death
and new bulbs should fix the prob = always replace them in pairs
but
if you have moisture getting inside the lens of the light housing, thats going to need a ballast system replacement as water has damaged the circuitry
many of us go aftermarket and save $$$ !
www.hidextra.com is one supplier,,only $59 for all you need
while dealer gets 125 per bulb! just for A bulb!!

Yes these are HID and require special bulbs
depending on car year, the base of the bulb and a shield are different

 

I'm in the middle of changing out a dead low beam bulb.

As I discovered, this is way more complex and expensive than you might expect. The dealership will inform you that all the HID components need to be replaced at a cost of $1K each side or will want $300 for just the bulb replacement.

I've investigated all the options and it all comes down to one test. Take the bulb from the "bad" side and put it into the "good side". If it does NOT work, it probably means that the bulb is bad and you need to replace it. To confirm this, put the good bulb into the bad side (in other words swap the bulbs) and see if the problems follows the bulb. If yes, then simply change out the bulb.

Now one would think swapping the bulbs is a simple excercise....nope, not with Acura. The bulb covers need to be rotated in order to take them off and they are held in place with torx security screws (star head with a post in the middle) which require a special driver to remove. In my case, the "special driver" was a pair of vice grips.

On the drivers side you will encounter "the snorkel", which is a plastic piece strategically placed between the air filter box and the headlight enclosure, making it impossible to remove the bulb cover. I was not aware how it came out but it simply pulls out and in my case, I had to use a claw hammer leverage against the battery to free it up and out. Once this is removed, the cover comes off easily.

I investigated all the bulb suppliers and I found Amazon to be the cheapest that provides "real" Philip's HID bulbs. These came in full color printed retail boxes with the Philip's name all over it as opposed to a plain white box with a "Philip's" sticker on one side. Apparently, Ebay has many many fakes who claim to provide Philip's products but are in fact knock-offs.

If the problem does NOT follow the bulb, then you might want to consider changing out the entire system out for an after-market set-up. They provide the complete package for a reasonable cost, when compared to the dealer costs.

Anyway, these are my experiences and findings.

smarty.

 

for the hassle of swapping the bulbs to test, already knowing how many of us experienced moisture issues in the electronics of the HID-
its way easier to get a kit and be done with it
Even if its just 1 bulb- you should not replace alone- the color and intensity will be different than the other,,which will fail soon.. as they get the same use

I prefer the `remove nose of car` method for dealing with the lights, especially to install the kit,,pop off the nose, remove entire headlight housing and place on workbench
There is a pita 1 armed retainer spring for the bulb which must not be damaged,
and must be put exactly in place or there will be problems

 

Thanks for the imput,the passenger side is the one that is out on the housing it says to unlock with a arrow underneither the screw that you have to remove and what is the gray plug next to the housing? thanks

 

My passenger side is out as well. Just remove the screw and (I know this sounds odd) move the connector out of the way enough so the cover will move past. You need to turn it about a quarter turn and it will pop off.

Many have reported difficulty with removing the wire retainer clip holding the HID bulb in place. I was able to get my head down close enough to see how it comes off and back on without issue. The base of the bulb is also "keyed" so you will need to rotate it around a bit to get to to slide back in. I has no issue with this step on both sides.

Good luck.

smarty.

 

make sure not to damage the external wire on the new bulbs while installing
You really need to do both sides,,shine at the garage door and the differance will be obvious

reminder: the bulb glass is hyper-sensative to the oils in your fingers
wear rubber/latex gloves

its a #20 torx SECURITY bit to remove the screw on round cover.
can use a dremel to make it a flatblade screwdriver fit--if needed

the plug next to the cover is the high beam power lead

 

Forgive my late entry but I am new to this forum and am amazed at all the great stuff here.
I am stuck on replacing the d2r bulb on the passenger side, I opened the cover and can just about get my hands on the igniter, but if I remove it as suggested, I would have to work blind to get the bulb out and given what I read about the brcket,etc, I would appreciate some help to do it.
The car is a 99 tl, and you need tiny hands as you all know.
Thanks

 

You have to work blind. There isnt much space. If you have a girlfriend or are married, ask for a small makeup mirror and use that to help guide you

 

THanks for responding but no mirror will get it done.

I was thinking maybe there is a trick to releasing the bulb from the housing, blind.

 

Just a heads up- harbor freight sells security torx bits. That may be helpful to some. The set of security bits (not just torx, all kinds) was 12 bucks.

 

Besides the "security" torx screw, there'a a wire retaining clip that can be bothersome.
PS: after removing the original screw, toss it and get a regular one. Nobody will steal !

 

remove the cars nose piece--simple diy
now the headlight housings are sitting there, held by a few more bolts
then you can directly work on the bulbs retainer clip!!

getting the bulb in right is critical
wear rubber/latex gloves so finger oils dont get on bulbs

always replace in pairs, one headlight went= the other isnt far behind

water issues inside lens call for a new ballast and ignitor plus bulbs
www.hidextra.com has a kit with all we need for only 59 bucks!

 

parts stores sell a #20 torx SECURITY bit screwdriver for 2-3 dollars
or a dremel with cutting blade will convert the torx to flatblade screw!

 

Oh man, this is gonna be a fun little project. Anybody in the SW Ohio area? Cincy/Dayton/Columbus? I am new to this and could use some help on my 01 CL-S. I have moisture in my driver side headlight.

 

ck Regions link for members near you

 

Hello folks. Just bought my 01TL yesterday. Found the pass low beam out, learned quick lesson about buying a new bulb at Autozone (freaking $100 each). Ok buy the bulb or get a ticket for having one out.... Buy the bulb.

Found this forum and the great advice. I am looking at hidextra.com and the only kit they list is a conversion kit for the high beam, nothing for the low beam. I am guessing you guys just buy the high beam kit and use it on the low side?

Thanks in advance for the info. I am looking forward to playing on this forum.

 

No, you dont need a kit. Just look for D2s/r bulbs. ALWAYS replace replace bulbs in PAIRS.

 

Fair enough, I was asking about the kit because after I replaced the one bulb, it worked for a bit then went out. My first thought was "oh crud". I turned the lights off and back on and the dead bulb lit up. It is significantly brighter than the one not replaced. After searching on here a bit it seems to be a common issue most easily solve with a kit and right now HIDextra.com is having a 1/2 price sale. $30 for the bright kit. I am thinking get the kit and save myself a lot of hassle later on.

Is this the kit I need to do my low beams? http://www.hidextra.com/9005/5000k/ or is ther a different one?

 

More searching and found references to the D2R 5000k kit. You guys have a lot of info on this site. Thanks for posting.

 

get the one thats normal price 59$ 5000k color bulbs,,
thats the one you want--the full `kit` dont worry about what they call it
has 2 ballast- 2 bulbs and 2 ignitors/connector from ballast to bulb
no extra parts needed from them,,just a pack of connectors at parts store

Im surprised you found a bulb at zone! most stores dont carry them
hidextra has good stuff call them on the 800,,mention acurazine

 

Yup it was D2R 5000K kit. 2 Ballast, 2 Bulbs, all the wireing. They were having a Black Friday sale 1/2 off :-) Normaly $59 on sale for $29. I opted for the slim balast for +$5. For some reason it looked more rugged and water tight from the pics.

Heh the parts guy at Zone had to go looking for them. I think he had like 2 on the shelf.

I really appreaciate this forum, there is a ton of info here, a lot like the Jeep forum I regular.
Thanks!

 

Called HIDextra.com and they are nice folks. They confirmed the D2R kit is the one for the low beams on the 99-03 Acura TL. SWEET I can't wait to get matching working headlights!

 

the stock ballast for the car is the size of a brick
hidextras regular size is smaller than a deck of cards!
its sealed inside with epoxy looking stuff
and all the connectors are waterproof= oring seal

let us know size of the mini ballast- thinking of one for my bike

 

Hey 4tl you around tonight? I am looking at the kit now and it looks like I have to splice 4 wires per side. 2 to the incoming power connector to the balast and 2 to the connector that holds the bulb as their bulb connecor does not fit our headlights. Is this right or am I missing something?

 

You have the hidextra kit? Take a glance at this thread. It should fit -- may need some wiggling, but you definitely want to keep the "bulb connector" as that is the igniter for our kits.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=diy

 

Oh that would have saved some frustration last night. I looked up and down the sticky DIY for that very thread. Can we talk a mod into adding it please? That is if it is not already there and I am just blind and did not see it.

I did finally figure it out and got one side done but not before I caught a case of stupid and cut one of the bulb connectors. Let’s just say it had been a loooonnngg day.

Thanks for the link.

01tl4tl

I’ll grab a pic of the mini-ballast tonight and post it for you. It is right about the same as a deck of cards and maybe 2/3-3/4 as thick. Ooh and shiny chrome.

 

the new power lead to the bulb from ballast has waterproof connectors that click together
find the ones that match,, and have at it!! feeding wire thru and connect as needed

some use a file to enlarge the plastic hole where you feed the 2 small wires thru the housing-- but others manage to slip them in as stock

I zip tied the ballast to outer side of frame rail and double secured with gorilla tape.
loop the extra long new power wire to bulb underneath the light housing- as you slide it back into its place
zip tie extra wire so it doesnt dangle

the only wires you cut to reconnect are power to ballast..some other cut to remove

-the ones you should buy= a matching connector for the car side--new ballast comes with connector on its wires - but no mates--at least when I got mine

soldering wires is best for least resistance -if you know how
and
based on the above persons guesstimated skill level,,lets go with `crimp on` spade connections with cover or shrink wrap or electrical tape over it~
ask parts store--take new ballast with you

 

Yup, figured that out after a bit. What confused me (first time working with HID) was the spring clip in the headlight assembly hooks onto the bulb, not the connector. So I sat there for 20 minutes looking like a Down's Syndrom kid (no offense intended) trying to figure out how to attach the connector to the headlight housing before I put the bulb in it.

Yeah, not too much problem here. The splitting of the gromit in the last link is a good idea (note to self: go back and use the gromit.)

I am a fan of solder and heat shrink. I just cut the connecor of the old balast and attached it in place of the two spade connectors. Works like a charm and this kit puts out some great light.

Thank you all for the help, I really appreciate it.

 

you aint seen nothin with them yet!

these bulbs- as do any hid bulbs- require ~50 hours use to get `burned in` to their full color= Kelvin and brightness=Lumens output
Run them every time you drive to get those hours in!

at least its easier than bedding new brakes,,just turn the headlights on and drive

 

this is a good time to ck headlight aim,,by the book to get them close,,,
then the dark road for final adjusting to personal preferance

note: thats driver side in toward the lane center slightly, and down slightly,
so you dont blind oncoming traffic
When that driver stares like a deer into your lights- they also move the steering wheel towards the light,, = CRASH right into you!

passenger side headlight aim ahead and up a tick- to see the painted white lane edge markings, pedestrians, bicycles, animals etc

anyone lowered needs a light adjustment..most others running 100,000 mile shocks and springs may have altered the oe ride angle...heavy amps in trunk etc
doesnt take much angle change to affect that oncoming traffic

with old faded lights that wasnt so bad,,,now with badazz bright new lights and a modern power source for them...

 

Good call. Is there a proceedure here on the forums? to get them close? Only other lights I have had to aim were for my CJ and well.... that is mostly just bending metal ;-)

 

its easy-
a v channel on the rear of light housing- slide a + screwdriver down that and it contacts the upper gear of adjuster mechanism
turn handle to rotate adjuster!

refer to our diy section,,,3rd item down on main gen2 TL list= NEW OFFICAL DIY,,,

start with a few measurements against the wall/garage door, then a nice backroad

Note: if we tell you to perform a certain adjustment or job,,99 percent chance its in the diy list,,or found using search featurel

 

Just wanted to come back and update the thread and thank you for your help. The new kit is in and works great.

The folks at hidextra.com were wonderful to work with. When I got a pretty strong case of "stupid" and cut the bulb connector wires, I emailed them and asked what would it cost for a new one. They sent me 2 out of the kindness of thier hearts and didn't even charge me. Now that is amazing customer service! So if anyone out there screws up like I did and needs another bulb connecor, I have a spare I would be happy to pass on.

01tl4tl I owe you an appology, I took pictures of the mini balast for you and when I went to pull them off my phone, they were gone. I must have accidently deleted them. The mini b is right about the same as a deck of cards, maybe a couple mm bigger on each side and about 3/4 as thick as the deck. The beams adjusted just as you said they would and you are correct sir when you say they are bright and get brighter, holy cow.

Thanks again for the help. I check back in every so often, this is a nice forum to have in the favorites :-)

 

Thanks for checking back !
It's always good to get some positive feedback and your results greatly help others in the same predicament. It's great to know what really works and what can be done to make things even better, through "Ziner's sharing experience with TL's.

 

I was on a business trip out of town last week. I happened to pass by another TL on the freeway - same year 2000 and color with the drivers light out. I thought, poor guy, that's going to cost... The very next night, my drivers went out while I was still out of town. But it was weird, if you shut the lights off and turn them back on, they both light up, but the left goes out after 90 sec down to 20 sec when warmed up.

I read the forums and since I've been too busy working late and don't have time to tinker with it myself, I decided to take it to the Acura dealer. They diagnosed the problem as the bulb, not the ignitor or inverter. They gave me a brand new Acura ILX loaner car, fixed my headlight and even washed and cleaned out my car - all in 3 hours for $300.

Now the new bulb is brighter and also more blue than the old bulb (more yellow). It's been a day now, and it is less blue, but the color still doesn't match. I think I need to get some hours on them, and hopefully it will match back up. Dealer didn't recommend changing the other bulb, said one at a time was ok. Do they tend to go out in pairs, or just one at a time? I've had them working perfectly for 12 years now, so I guess they've been a pretty good value.

 

NEVER replace ANY headlight bulb just one at a time, doesnt matter if its halogen or HID. ALWAYS replace in Pairs.
As for do they go out in pairs, no. They are just like any other bulb. No real rime or reason to them failing under normal use.

Also, it will never match the color and output of the old and vice versa.

 

So which bulb do I need to replace my oem low beams for the 02 TL-S> With no fitment issues. I read to get the dr2, the 9006. How many watts?

hidextra.com

 

This is in answer to a PM I got from StevenTrannn.

Hey Steven I tried to PM you back but your MB is full.

Hey Steven

I used the D2R kit in the 5000 color range with the stealth series balast. It works great and I couldn" be happier. The HIDextra folks were great to work with.

 

I have changed by high beam bulbs a couple of times now, both sides and just run on high beams, I know that's lazy.... right?
Problem I have is the sticker right on the back of the housing and the manual for my 2000 rl says there is a chance of electrical shock and therefore they recommend the dealer? Is this for real... should I disconnect the battery to the car first?

I have a drivers side low beam lamp out, not sure if there is any moister issue. By now I would be willing to change the whole with a kit on both the drivers and passenger side if it can be done safely. I have seem some great diy advise here but after buying the kits and the special tools required, I don't want to still deal with getting shocked?