I parked my car for the last month unexpectedly. I got in the car today and it started right up. I let it warm up and went inside. I came out 3 minutes later and the car was surging at idle. The vehicle rev's up to 2000 rpms and then drops to 1000 at about a one second frequency. In drive it doesn't rev up as high but you can feel it. I need to brake harder and it accererates almost on it's own. Does any body knows what causes this?

 

the throtte cable got stuck?

go check it out soon

 

was the check engine light on or did all the lights on the dash turn on at once

 

idle air control valve.. 100% sure..

 

Possibly a Idle Air Control valve

 

I just got back to school from winter break, and the same thing happened to me last night and today. its exactly on 1000 then goes up to 2000. I thought it was condensation, so I took my car up on the highway, and realized I had more problems.........

I had my front bumper replaced a few months ago (i never go on the highway when i'm at school, so i never noticed this until 2day)....apparently, they never replaced the clips that connect the inner fender to the bumper, so once I got to about 85mph, the black plastic fender in the wheel well tore off my car and covered my tires. I finally got it towed back to the body shop who worked on it, and they wouldnt even pay for the tow! They ended up takin off the fender's so i could drive the car cuz i have classes, and now i have to go back and get it all replaced.

Then after all this.........my check engine light comes on......took it to autozone, found out that it was an idle controller malfunction....heard it was cheap, but i guess the part is $139.95 not including labor.

Someone please tell me that once i start drivin around more, my car will idle fine and i dont have to spend more money...I have 37,800miles on it, and its liek shittin the bed....i had a mazda w/ 105,000 on it and it ran better.

 

Cant blame your bumper on bad quality just the repair shop.
and sometimes little things do go wrong with cars. My TL with 198,500 miles runs better than my friends mazda with 80k

Oh and to answer your question
Well if you replace the IAC (and that is the problem) YES it will run and idle fine

 

Thanks for the responses.

I went to buy the IAC valve from the acura dealership. They were out buy the parts guy said he would call the honda dealership down the street because the honda's use the same part. They had it. At Acura the part was $136 but at the Honda dealership $123.

 

^keep us updated if that fixed your problem kaih

 

I put the IAC valve in yesterday along with the thermoblock spacers that I bought six months ago. Everything seems to be working fine, although I only drove it for 5 minutes. So it looks like problem fixed.

 

good to hear it. reset your ECU by disconnecting battery for 15-20mins and go for a spirited drive and you will notice a nice butt dyno gain from your spacers, also after a long drive 1hr or so, when you park your car, pop the hood and put your hand on your IM and TB and notice they aren't very hot at all.