how to bleed brakes from a completly empty system
#1
What to put
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: orlando, florida
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
how to bleed brakes from a completly empty system
Ok so i got my second tl from an auction it had no calipers, pads, rotors when I got it so now a year later and i am waiting on one part to come in should be here today or tomorrow .
Now my question is is there any thing i need to do different from regular when bleeding the brakes as the system has been dry for over a year (as in no fluid in the system).
Thanks
Now my question is is there any thing i need to do different from regular when bleeding the brakes as the system has been dry for over a year (as in no fluid in the system).
Thanks
#2
Drifting
I would be concerned with contaminants in the lines/ABS, dried up seals, etc. if it's been open to the atmosphere all that time.... what does the resv. look like inside? Was all the fluid actually removed from everything, or just "drip dried"?
Last edited by totaledTL; 07-02-2010 at 09:30 AM.
#3
either way there is sure to be air in the ABS controller
Unless you have a pressure bleeder or vac bleeder- let a brake shop do it
You can buy a small vac bleeder system for $25 or less on sale at harbor freight tools
DONT use the manual pump and hold method- that needs fluid in the calipers and lines
prefill your new calipers as much as possible with a squirt can filled with new brake fluid
-that protects the new seal inside
so - buy the right tool for the job,, or let a pro use a reverse flush or pressure fill or vac--whatever they suggest and use
Expect to use a lot of fluid getting rid of contaminent
Reflush the brakes within a month- less if your tech says
after they are filled-flushed-bled of air
then you must do 2 ABS active stops from 45 mph
if the 2nd stop had firmer pedal there was hidden air in the ABS controller- its at a caliper now so just rebleed and all will be well
correct order is LF driver front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR
no other order- due to abs plumbing
Unless you have a pressure bleeder or vac bleeder- let a brake shop do it
You can buy a small vac bleeder system for $25 or less on sale at harbor freight tools
DONT use the manual pump and hold method- that needs fluid in the calipers and lines
prefill your new calipers as much as possible with a squirt can filled with new brake fluid
-that protects the new seal inside
so - buy the right tool for the job,, or let a pro use a reverse flush or pressure fill or vac--whatever they suggest and use
Expect to use a lot of fluid getting rid of contaminent
Reflush the brakes within a month- less if your tech says
after they are filled-flushed-bled of air
then you must do 2 ABS active stops from 45 mph
if the 2nd stop had firmer pedal there was hidden air in the ABS controller- its at a caliper now so just rebleed and all will be well
correct order is LF driver front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR
no other order- due to abs plumbing
#4
Hi Them :
First a disclaimer, I have not had any experience with bleeding ABS brakes but when I had the rear brake lines changed, I watched the tech bleed the lines using the old tried and tested "pump and hold" method.
A couple of additional thoughts. Air in the system rises to the top and will eventually bubble up through the master cylinder reservoir. In fact, you might see a white froth in the reservoir fluid, that's air escaping. So, you might want to bleed the brakes and then let the car sit over night and bleed them again the next day. At least top up the fluid to the full line.
That said, I always found that if the brakes don't bleed after a fairly short period of time (10 pump and holds ?), then there is something wrong with the hydraulics.
In your case, I'd not be surprised if you don't have some dried out seals which I anticipate is going to cause you further problems.
smartypants.
First a disclaimer, I have not had any experience with bleeding ABS brakes but when I had the rear brake lines changed, I watched the tech bleed the lines using the old tried and tested "pump and hold" method.
A couple of additional thoughts. Air in the system rises to the top and will eventually bubble up through the master cylinder reservoir. In fact, you might see a white froth in the reservoir fluid, that's air escaping. So, you might want to bleed the brakes and then let the car sit over night and bleed them again the next day. At least top up the fluid to the full line.
That said, I always found that if the brakes don't bleed after a fairly short period of time (10 pump and holds ?), then there is something wrong with the hydraulics.
In your case, I'd not be surprised if you don't have some dried out seals which I anticipate is going to cause you further problems.
smartypants.
Last edited by smartypants; 07-03-2010 at 10:48 AM.
#5
if you only had 2 lines changed- then you can do a pump and hold method
Im old and my hips hurt! so I like power tools
the best is pressure from the caliper up thru the lines to the master
for this case: with fully drained system from missing parts- power suction or vac
I dont know about your air rises to the top theory smart- maybe thats only in Canada~
Never had brakes do that for me!!
If you bled the system and had more air left- you did not bleed the system
Only bleeding trick with the TL, due to ABS, is the order of LF RF RR LR
and the 2 abs active stops from 45mph to make sure no air was in the abs controller unit- which only comes into play when abs is pumping
Im old and my hips hurt! so I like power tools
the best is pressure from the caliper up thru the lines to the master
for this case: with fully drained system from missing parts- power suction or vac
I dont know about your air rises to the top theory smart- maybe thats only in Canada~
Never had brakes do that for me!!
If you bled the system and had more air left- you did not bleed the system
Only bleeding trick with the TL, due to ABS, is the order of LF RF RR LR
and the 2 abs active stops from 45mph to make sure no air was in the abs controller unit- which only comes into play when abs is pumping
#6
01 :
Clearly you have never worked on British cars ! I've owned 20+ Austin Healys, MG's and Triumphs. They all have Locheed brakes including a hydraulic clutch which fail on a regular basis. I wish I had a dollar for every brake bleed I've done on the side on the highway !
As for the white froth in the master cylinder, I've actually had large air bubbles come up through the reservoir or pumped for hours with the pedal going all the way to the floor every time. Fun times...fun times.
While I do occasionally slam Acura, I would never want to go back to the "good old days" !
smartypants
Clearly you have never worked on British cars ! I've owned 20+ Austin Healys, MG's and Triumphs. They all have Locheed brakes including a hydraulic clutch which fail on a regular basis. I wish I had a dollar for every brake bleed I've done on the side on the highway !
As for the white froth in the master cylinder, I've actually had large air bubbles come up through the reservoir or pumped for hours with the pedal going all the way to the floor every time. Fun times...fun times.
While I do occasionally slam Acura, I would never want to go back to the "good old days" !
smartypants
#7
if you are pumping the brake pedal to the floor- thats a problem
The oring seal on the shaft is not used to going past a certain travel-
in normal use the brake pedal never goes more than 3/4 to the floor
anywhere past that is danger zone of cylinder bore that may not be as smooth as working area--
Prefill calipers or master cyls or slaves with new fluid so there is lube for/on the rubber oring when movement starts in a new unit during flushing/install
I suggest people to put a 2x4 wood block under the pedal to prevent over-extension by noob helper
that has caused the instant, or early failure of many units
only brit car I worked on was an XKE from the 60s, drive it 1 hour--work on it 20 hours.
A good day was driving it back to the shop- not towing it.
truth be known- Im a rotorhead~ give me a mazda engine and I'll drop it in something interesting!
The oring seal on the shaft is not used to going past a certain travel-
in normal use the brake pedal never goes more than 3/4 to the floor
anywhere past that is danger zone of cylinder bore that may not be as smooth as working area--
Prefill calipers or master cyls or slaves with new fluid so there is lube for/on the rubber oring when movement starts in a new unit during flushing/install
I suggest people to put a 2x4 wood block under the pedal to prevent over-extension by noob helper
that has caused the instant, or early failure of many units
only brit car I worked on was an XKE from the 60s, drive it 1 hour--work on it 20 hours.
A good day was driving it back to the shop- not towing it.
truth be known- Im a rotorhead~ give me a mazda engine and I'll drop it in something interesting!
Trending Topics
#8
What to put
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: orlando, florida
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Besides the 2 where the reserve tank is and the ones in the calipers where else are there seals. I just want to be prepared so I know the worst they can tell me if something is wrong and leaking. I have installed new crush washers at the caliper where the lines attaches. I was going to buy a new master cylinder today just so I knew it was new but no Honda or Acura in my area had one in stock and I need to take it to a shop tomorrow or Monday to get the brakes bleed and alignment done so I can be back in a Honda/Acura. I took the reserve tank off and cleaned the inside so all the stuff that was in there was mostly cleaned out I only used water and let it dry over night so it should be good. Any other things I should maybe do before I take it and they try to rape me. I'm not new to changing brakes just never done it on a car with ABS or completely empty system.
#9
you used WATER to clean the master cylinder res!?!
is that what you mean by `reserve tank`?
there are seals inside the abs controller- exactly how many I dont know
thats about 700 bucks when it fails
is that what you mean by `reserve tank`?
there are seals inside the abs controller- exactly how many I dont know
thats about 700 bucks when it fails
#10
What to put
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: orlando, florida
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I didn't want to put any chemicals that may have contaminated the new brake fluid. I did take the reserve tank off before and let it dry out completely before putting it back on the car.
Thanks for all the Help 01tl4tl
Thanks for all the Help 01tl4tl
#11
I meant to add wild disbelief cartoon eyes to my post--
water in the brake system!!--the very thing we work to get out
brake cleaner works
water in the brake system!!--the very thing we work to get out
brake cleaner works
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mada51589
3G TL Problems & Fixes
79
05-03-2022 08:54 PM
cycdaniel
1G TSX Performance Parts & Modifications
8
12-17-2019 10:58 AM