Hesitation when putting into Drive

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Old 06-30-2006 | 02:19 PM
  #1  
Sport'nTL's Avatar
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Hesitation when putting into Drive

Hey guys, today when I got into my car and put it into drive it felt like a hesitation for just a second then it felt like the power was there. It’s hard to describe but the car kind of lunged forward just a little bit, then everything was normal. Any ideas? I checked the battery because I jumped my buddy yesterday and its ok, and the air filter is fine. I had an oil change, new spark plugs, cables, brakes, new transmission fluid, and battery all replaced about 3 months ago. I don’t know if this is an engine problem or drive train? Any suggestions please let me know. Thanks guys
Old 06-30-2006 | 02:39 PM
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vinniemak's Avatar
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From: Grafton, MA
Could be the transmission...how many miles??
Old 06-30-2006 | 03:33 PM
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Sport'nTL's Avatar
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it's a 99 TL and it has 56,000 miles
Old 06-30-2006 | 04:01 PM
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vinniemak's Avatar
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From: Grafton, MA
That is low mileage....you should take it to Acura dealership and have them check it out - could be the transmission ; the TL's are plagued by them - check out my posting - still not gettin' anywhere, but my car has over 102K miles....they should not bother you too much.
Old 06-30-2006 | 05:33 PM
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Im on my 3rd tranny i agree take it to acura have them look it over. It is covered till 07 or 100k miles if im not mistaken.
Old 11-28-2006 | 02:58 PM
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CalScubaD's Avatar
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From: Northern California
Post Hesitations: tork/pwr fix, MAP fix, EVAP tbs, IdleAir setting

Yes this seems like a common problem on this engine. You'll probably notice also that your engine has no guts until above 2,000rpm. It's hard to drive gently in traffic when you can't pound the pedal passed 2,000rpm.

I am chassing this problem myself because my dfk. dealer word is: "Just drive your car harder" ... like this is going to fix the problem!


Here is what I found so far: This low rpm problem has to do whith the vacuum level and air/fuel mixture.

1 - My air/gas mixture setting was way off.
FIX: simply adjust the idle air screw to about 1.5 turn out from closed. I found my idle air screw was screwed all the way shut after the Trottle body was replaced under warrenty.

Result: my engine low rpm tork is back the way it used to be when new. So much nicer to drive around.


2- Gas pedal reaction is delayed (EVAP system Pb)
Something wrong witht the EVAP line (no code) that seems to vaccuum the tank when you open the thottle (DELAY acc.) and restore the vacuum when you want to decelarate so the engine does not slow down for 3 or 4s because the MAP sensing this vaccum.

Easy Test: plug the EVAP port on the TB: now you have much sharpper gas pedal reactions with NO delays.
(Do expect the ECU to through a CEL after 3 trips because the engine vacuum line to EVAP is disconected. Not a problem, reset ECU with Fuse 13 or OBDII scanner)


3- MAP sensor lub:
Give your MAP sensor 3 drops of Teflon lubricant (got my can at Lowes). This will make the internal parts move smoother and restore power to the engine.
In theory the MAP is a solid state piezo sensor with no moving parts... believe me I did that on a newer 2006 TL 30kMi. and boy did I noticed the difference at all RPM. The engine runs better with more tork, more power and more gentle to control.

WHY: The MAP is what tells the ECU how much vacuum the engine is pulling. It directly acts on gas volume and timing advance (ie. POWER)
Old 11-29-2006 | 08:31 PM
  #7  
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From: Charlotte(home) /Raleigh (school), NC
I have an 00 and my car also does this. I think it must be a normal thing. Its like you put it in D5 and it starts to move but then it like catches and then you can drive normally. I think we are fine but dont take me word on it for all I know our trannys might die soon but I doubt it.
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