ttvegas2002

Hello everyone

Recently I did AV6 swap on my 02 tl's and now I experience with hesitation on second gear when accelerating on cold start ( when vehicle been sat for an hour or more ). Now didn't notices any hesitation if I start the car and let it idle for a few minutes or revving the gas couple times, can any one help me out?

01tl4tl

that's actually a HOT start, cold is over 6 hours- engine cool to the touch
After an hour the heat has been able to soak into fuel lines and the intake manifold

There is a known hot start problem FIX, ck thread titles or diy list
Might be the relay for fuel pump or the solder on back or board where relays plug in
Even the main relay has been known to cause problems

you can swap the FPR under driver side dash to test

Did you do the Idle Relearn procedure- assuming battery was disconnected for some time and would clear ECU- some years need special procedure done
Yes I am totally guessing as I don't have the 6 speed

have you had the car on a dyno?
Is there some remapping needed due to the swap?
Have you ck'd fsttyms1 thread at top of thread list on the swap? he is The Master~

01tl4tl

I realize the things I mention are not a direct answer to the OP question,
but you have to think outside the box sometimes

needs to idle 1-2 minutes or revved, well that sounds like a sensor issue- but which?

ttvegas2002

No dyno was done after the swapped but I did relearned the ecm, turn on the ignition for 2 second then turn on the car, idle at 3000 rpm until its reach 194 degree f. Once it reach the coolant temp at 194 degree and idle at close throttle for 5 minutes, after that I turn off the engine and wait for couple second and started again. Hoped that's the right procedure.

So hot start huh? Check the fuel pump relay? I'll try it out today. My tl seem like not enough fuel going to the system when first started. Thanks for the advice

01tl4tl

I don't know the procedure you listed, where did that come from? owner book or acurazine? free owner book download from acura here Acura Owners Site | Exclusive Knowledge, Service, & Benefits

The procedure I speak of is called Idle Relearn and applies to 02 -03 iirc, it should be in our DIY section

my 01 does not require it so I don't know the details

for others- to clear the ECU of codes and force a full system self test = remove the CLOCK fuse from passenger end of dash, later years may be in side panel by pass feet

Pull CLOCK fuse for 1 minute then insert fully, replace cover
Its the secret backup power to the ECU, works same as battery neg disconnect BUT you wont have to enter to radio security code this way!!
easy and safer than playing with battery cables,
unless you plan on cleaning the cables while in there = then make sure to know the radio code!!

when you register as owner on the acura site, you can look up details and recalls for your car. OPEN means NEEDS FIX,,
FIXED means completed, not necessarily fixed
trans warranty is long since expired- don't get excited if it says OPEN, only means the car was eligible

Also reg with acura care- they send out recall notices! usa cars call 1 800 382 2238 x5 gets a human, need cars VIN for both places
they can look up recalls for you and many other things

With the recent addition of some half million or maybe 5 million more Honda products in the takata airbag recall, you want acura knowing how to contact you!

Even if the recall section of online site doesn't show any current recalls- it takes time to update all that- the 800 has the newest info

Dealer can run your VIN for recall status- for free- too
recalls are free to you to have done, and doesn't matter if 1st or 10th owner- recalls are about the VIN
Even salvage title cars MAY be eligible for SOME recalls, no guarantee, YOU ask Corp!

ttvegas2002

Thank you 01tl04cl, i justed redo my ecm relearn and as well as low ckp and high ckp procedures on acurazine? Hope its work.
Funny things that I have to say is the 2nd hesiration has gone now, today I parked my car at work for 8 hours and car start and drive without any hesiration or sputtering. Stopped at the goceries store for about half an hour and cane back out to start the car, I did noticed it take a little longer than normal to started. Do you think maybe because its too hot that the fuel inside the fuel rail could vaporized? Maybe that's why I got that hesitation when accelerating right after started the car? IDK

01tl4tl

have the battery ckd, tested at parts store for free, low volts can cause massive problems
Clean the battery connections including the small braided wires for extra grounds

Did you read the thread on heat soak, not likely vaporizing your fuel
More likely relay issue or air inlet temp sensor

01tl4tl

do you use only 91 octane or higher fuel? 87 will get you!
Do you use seafoam or bg44 or similar to clean the system?
ethanol in gas is bogus for us- leftover crud must be removed frequently- ongoing treatment and tier1 quality fuel are your friends

ttvegas2002

Air intake sensor read about 153 degree at idle when ambient temp was 97. Haven't check out the battery but I thinked the battery is about 3 year olds, as for the fuel I used 91 octane and also added the fuel injection/conditioning stuff in the gas as well. Using seafoam huh? Never use one before, how do you use it?

This has never happened before, 111k mileson vehicle and I will be doing timing belt & belts, spark plugs and also cleaning out the egr valve and port soon. Too much cash to do all at one if you know what I mean, just replaced the tranny so now I have to wait for a month or so to do the rest.

01tl4tl

get the battery ckd first!!! 3 -4 years is a good battery life these days
any issues with it will screw with the entire cars sensors!

The egr cleaning will run you 20 bucks with carb cleaner, TB and iacv gaskets
All other gaskets are reused!

Seafoam is a fuel and/or oil/multi use cleaner-
add 1 can to just under half tank of gas, drive as you desire, after next full tank and down to half tank again, add a 2nd can of seafoam, Drive
DONE!

That's cleaned important combustion and intake valve parts, as well as the complete fuel system and thru the cat convertor!!
Homepage - Sea Foam Sales Company for tech info

maintenance: midyear 1 can to just under full tank, and once a year the 2 cans method

Chojun

FWIW I just seafoamed my car after about 156K miles just as 01tl4tl described. Drop the can in the tank when the fuel gauge drops below the half mark. You'll notice a slight drop in MPG and performance whilst the stuff is circulating through your system.

I'd say the result is slight improvement in performance and mpg (1-2). So seafoaming is probably worthwhile to do 1x a year or so.

01tl4tl

first time seafoam thru gas do the 2 cans method for full cleaning
midyear at oil change throw half a can in oil before change and the rest in gas tank at low fuel levels- 1/4 tank
Seafoam ratio:
less than 3/4 oz per gal fuel does not work effectively
more than 2 oz per gal does NOT do extra cleaning, make you fly higher or faster~

01tl4tl

to be technical - don't drop THE CAN in the gas tank- open can and add contents to fuel thru filler neck

Chojun

^ LOL I offer $5 to the next person who fits a can of seafoam into their gas tank.

Hope it helps pay for a new gas tank

Ncjohnnyg

I'm new to acurazine, so I will ask for your tolerance with any punctuation, grammer or ignorance that my posts display.

I just want to say ME TOO in regard to this post. I have a 2004 2.3L Acura TL with 183k miles. Recently I began experiencing the hesitation / sputter (proper terminology needed) in 1st, 2nd and eve 3rd gear. I found that if I ran high revolution, meaning 5k I. Those gears, the hesitation was much less noticeable. Anyway, I wasn't sure what the problem was so I changed the Air Filter. That didn't work. So then I added Sea Foam to a full tank of gas, and that also didn't work. I currently have a 2nd can of seafood that I'm about to put in to see if that helps. I blame my O2 sensors right now. In fact I will admit that each February, when inspection comes up for the vehicle I will invariably get the Check Engine light, and it's always an issue with the O2 sensor. I thint bother of them actually. I haven't chaneed them and I always just unplug the Battery so the light goes out and I get to pass inspection. NOW HOLD UP!!! I know I'm going to catch some grief for what I just admitted to, but The Truth is more important than raking my actions over a bed of hot coals. What I want to say is I appreciate all the feedback provideo on the acurazine site. I can at least go try that 2nd can of Sea Foam, and if that doesn't work, I can try the ignition reset process.
I will admit to a bit more also. When my O2 sensor went out the first time I asked why, I was told it was because I was using only premium gas, which I had always done. So I switched to regular...always assuming that at some point the dirty regular gas would mess my internals up, but also assuming that a mechanic would know better than me, the layman. So for 3 years, it's been regular gas only. Now I'm back on Premium.
ANYWAY... if I ever remember to come back to this page, I'd like to let you know how it goes and what the solution is for my situation. After all, we are here to contribute real advice for laymen and mechanic alike... right?