I had a 2002 TL, had tranny replaced at 45K, now it has 98K on. Just had ATF filter and fluid replaced. it ran into a problem, at 1st gear, every thing is fine; whenever go above 2nd gear, the tranny will pull the engine to run at high rpm(or same rpm at the time i stop the gas) after stop the gas (just like I am driving a manual car). up gear is smooth.

any idea? it's time for a new tranny?
what i should do? take it to the dealer(they will rid me off!!)?
any suggestion?

Thanks

 

do you mean it revs beyond what you ask and doesnt move forward?
please explain better

was it doing this BEFORE the fluid and filter change?
possible they didnt get the fluid level correct or other problem

should be 3 dots on the dipstick- lowest is for basic cold level, upper 2 are used to ck correctly after 15 minute freeway drive then stop and ck--not at either but between the upper 2 dots is good warm

got anything showing on the stick cold?
look over/under car for signs of fluid loss from filter area,, bad seal could pump out fluid fast
Have the place that did the service ck it before the dealer
most likely something they did

 

Just ck the fluid, it's between the upper 2 dots, no leak nothing.
Normally, when I stop the gas, rpm will drop to idle. Now, the problem is rpm won't drop when I stop the gas (like a manual tranny pulls the engine when stop the gas), but when i hit the gas it runs smoothly. it's happened for a few days, whenever it goes above 2nd gear it happens regardless of the speed.

I want to replace the spark plugs for my tl. Is NGK platinum OK ?

Thanks

 

By "stop the gas" do you mean let off and coast? Because I think that's normal.

Transmission "drives" the engine and no gas is injected, saves fuel. I think it doesn't do that in the lower gears because it's going too slow.

 

car came with ngk platinum,
you can upgrade to ngk iridium IX,,often for less $ than the platinums!,,about 8-9 dollars each at parts stores

make sure you tell them if type S--different heat range plug

 

is the throttle return linkage sticky? remove top plastic engine cover and ck

if trans shop is nearby- ask them to test drive it and ck for any codes

how many kms on the plugs right now? heard of Seafoam- avail Canadian tire stores
good to run before plug change 1 can to half tank gas

 

were you able to ck the fluid level after 15 minutes freeway cruise
or was it cold?
is there a lower mark or just the 2 dots?

too much fluid can be as bad as too little

 

Yes, "stop the gas" means let off and coast, now my tl's tranny "dirves" the engine at 2nd gear and above. Before, when let off and coast the engine drops to idle. I have no idea what's happening on my tl.

 

There is a Mister Transmission near by my place, ever heard of it? is it good?
I cked the ATF after 15 minutes freeway cruise and kept the engine on. The dipstick has 3 dots, the middle dot is very close to the lower one and very far from the upper one, the ATF is in the middle of the middle dot and the upper dot.

Just replaced plugs to ngk iridium IX. Can't notice the difference between the old and new plugs, only start is quicker. ngk iridium IX is not pre-gapped (for CA), default gap is 0.6mm so that I had to spend 4$ for the gapping tool
one of the old plug smell burned(very strong) and it was very hard to be unscrewed. Is something wrong on this? please advise, Thanks.

 

first go back and ck atf--ENGINE OFF after the 15 minute freeway drive
fluid level BETWEEN the 2 upper dot

cant tell anything with engine running--TL is different than other cars in many areas- this included

who said ngk not Ca gapped- what were they set at and what did you adjust to?

was the burnt smelling plug black-oily on the metal arm part?
some can be hard to remove after 80k+miles,,
a shot of pentrating lube the night before helps-- for others reading this

trans shop- if they do free trans diagnostic, let them

 

you got the ~8 dollar each ngks right?
not the 2 buck each ngk that are not for us, but some books show as `fits`

after cking actual fluid level- call the repairing shop if its low and decribe the problem

 

I will ck the ATF again tomorrow.
I adjusted the gap to 1.1mm. it was < 1mm. 19.99 for 2 in CA.
yes, the burnt smelling plug was black-oily on the metal arm part. something wrong ?

Thanks

 

I'm very sure that's normal. My car does the exact same thing. Don't know why your car would drop to idle before. Did it do that even at highway speeds?

 

Ok, I understand your situation (I think). When your going 60mph and you release the throttle, the engine RPM should drop. The engine will shut off the fuel injectors, and the engine will be powered by the wheels. In your case, the RPM stays high.

Maybe torque converter problem?

Please make a video or describe the situation a little more clearly.

 

If the rpm is staying constant that would mean the engine is still running, or you have an army of little hamsters spinning your transmission

 

could be torque convertor- since it was recently rebuilt trans job~

oily or wet plug may indicate bad coil,,or something worse
ck the compression on it, and another cyl away from the funky one

with the $$ exchange rate, you pay the same for the good plugs as we do
thankfully they last a really long time!!

 

Cked ATF again, cool : between lower 2 dots

after 15 mins freeway drive and engine off : a bit above the middlle dot

it means ATF level is low, how much ATF should I add into? it's hard to get it out if overfilled.
Thanks

 

Your ATF level is fine.

 

mrl_tl Can you do the above in bold?


What do you mean the trans is pulling the engine?

 

if the trans gets overfilled- there is a simple drain plug on bottem of it--same one we use to change the fluid~

fluid is a tick on the low side but in range--add maybe 4-6 ounces of fluid--= not much

Doh! on me- Ca is Canada to you- had never heard of California spark plug gap!

 

For example, when the car is at 50 mph and the engine is at 2500rpm, then let off the gas and coast, normally, the engine will drop to around 800rpm which my tl doesn't drop now.

Another problem, before the engine warms up, it jerks when up gear. Occasionally, it jerks when down gear, after the engine warms up.
I think I need a new tranny soon

wondering is there any reasonable shop in Toronto I can trust and have the tranny rebuilt or swapped. I can't afford taking it to the dealer.

 

lol, I am the minority.
Just got 1q ATF for 10$, Handa changed the name to ATF-DISP.
Will fill it tomorrow. Don't think it helps,

Thanks

 

with the description of your shifts,,,maybe a fluid change to a type F will prolong its life
just a tick low on fluid but in range isnt going to cause that

 

what do you mean "change to a type F" ?

Thanks

 

After I replaced the plugs, mileage dropped 40%, any idea?


Thanks

 

Its been a long time since i have had a Auto in my car but i dont remember the RPM dropping when you let off the gas. The TL Held the torque converter in lock for the grade logic

The jerks may be the trans or it may be your mounts. How does your fluid look?

 

What plugs did you use? Did you check the gap? How did you calculate your 40% drop?

 

if not running NGK 8 dollar each spark plugs- they sold you the wrong plug for the car!! and it will run poorly very soon after

type f fluid--ATF originally used by Ford (hence type F) for its cars for decades- now being used in failing gen2 TL trans to extend trans life a bit longer,,may get month or may get years!! as found on a 99 tested by `I hate cars` (of gen3) he knows about fluids

Others are going high dollar- on trans that run good now- Redline lightweight racing atf
Both have fewer friction modifiers- so they allow better grip on weak clutches
and seem to help shifting smoothness

note: the new honda atf-approved for us, has less of those modifiers too~

 

watched the tach as I lifted for a red light-
rpm drops to 1100 and holds a few seconds-
Im guessing the `decel air control valves` are doing their thing to reduce the spike in emissions as ECU goes from full lean running to idle richening,, during those seconds
then it drops to 800 and stays as its stop and wait

 

Yea the RPM should definitely drop some, and it seems to me that the problem is your torque converter.

When your driving and you let off the throttle, do you feel the car "drag"? For example, if your at 50mph in second gear and you let off the accelerator, you will feel a significant resistance from the engine. Does this happen to you regardless of your gear?

 

mr tl- when the fluid and filter were done:
exactly what fluid did they use? that can be the source of your problem

was a manual `gravity drain` and refill of 3 qts done, more than one time?
or was it hooked to a machine and dextron 3 pumped thru it?

it does sound like clogging torque convertor but I didnt want to be the bearer----

 

Before we SPECULATE any more, Get us a Video of it.

 

I just has 3x3 ATF(acura aft z1) and filter replaced 3 weeks age. I added 200ml into it 2 days ago.

I used ngk iridium IX plugs, 1.1mm gap.

I drive 105km/day to work, before was 5.5 days a gas tank, now is around 4 days a gas tank.

 

Thanks for the "type f fluid" info.
Do you mean the new honda atf is the best, cus it has less modifiers?

 

yes, it's exactly what i am talking about.
How much is the cost to have my torque converter fixed?
If i don't have it fixed, will it introduce another problem?

Thanks

 

You should make a video of your tachometer before having to deal with costly repairs. If what I described is the problem, then it's a more serious problem than a DIY.

Don't quote me on it, but it should be between $500 and $2000? That's just a rough estimate from knowing the cost of completely replacing your tranny.