Help with P1705 and P0710 - 2003 Type S
Help with P1705 and P0710 - 2003 Type S
Hi - My CEL came on today - strangely after I left the radio installer today (installed HD module on my Kenwood radio)
I read the codes and it says P1705 and P0710
P1705 - Automatic Transaxle
P0710 - Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit malfunction
I only have 35K miles on the car so I really dont think the transmission is bad and I made sure when I bought the car based on VIN that it was not affected by the tranny problems/recalls the earlier models were impacted by.
So my question, what do you think? and do you think it had anything to do with the radio installer? I did a search on 1705 and another forum thread suggests it might be an ignition switch ?
I read the codes and it says P1705 and P0710
P1705 - Automatic Transaxle
P0710 - Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit malfunction
I only have 35K miles on the car so I really dont think the transmission is bad and I made sure when I bought the car based on VIN that it was not affected by the tranny problems/recalls the earlier models were impacted by.
So my question, what do you think? and do you think it had anything to do with the radio installer? I did a search on 1705 and another forum thread suggests it might be an ignition switch ?
Ok for starters welcome to the forum.
Now, as for the trans, ALL models 99-03 WERE affected. What you read was that your specific vin range was not covered by the extended warranty.
Its VERY unlikely that it has anything to do with the radio. GO to the passenger side dash fuse panel and pull the clock backup fuse and keep it out for a few min. Put it back in and see if the lights come back on. If it does take it to the dealer and see what they have to say.
Now, as for the trans, ALL models 99-03 WERE affected. What you read was that your specific vin range was not covered by the extended warranty.
Its VERY unlikely that it has anything to do with the radio. GO to the passenger side dash fuse panel and pull the clock backup fuse and keep it out for a few min. Put it back in and see if the lights come back on. If it does take it to the dealer and see what they have to say.
So update - The first time around a year ago, they couldn't find anything wrong so they just reset the transmission relay switch and been driving fine up til now.
But now about a week ago - I could feel my tranny has started to slip and CEL came on again. It's taking about 3-4 secs to get to reverse and there are high revs in between 2nd and 3rd gears before it would get into gear and the D5 light started blinking once.
I went to the dealership to get the airbag recall issue addressed and told them to check the check engine light again hoping maybe the transmission switch was bad but they are saying its a P1750 Code and the tranny needs to be replaced. They are quoting $3500 which is insane. My car only had 39K miles (yes only 39k miles!) - so this is disappointing to me but I've read up a little on the boards so I know its a common problem with these year cars.
Need some advice here - I'm willing to get it fixed but not at dealer prices. Can anyone recommend a tranny specialist in the NYC / central-north jersey area that has experience fixing this particular vehicle for a reasonable price? What are people's thoughts on Aamco? Thanks in advance for all the help!
But now about a week ago - I could feel my tranny has started to slip and CEL came on again. It's taking about 3-4 secs to get to reverse and there are high revs in between 2nd and 3rd gears before it would get into gear and the D5 light started blinking once.
I went to the dealership to get the airbag recall issue addressed and told them to check the check engine light again hoping maybe the transmission switch was bad but they are saying its a P1750 Code and the tranny needs to be replaced. They are quoting $3500 which is insane. My car only had 39K miles (yes only 39k miles!) - so this is disappointing to me but I've read up a little on the boards so I know its a common problem with these year cars.
Need some advice here - I'm willing to get it fixed but not at dealer prices. Can anyone recommend a tranny specialist in the NYC / central-north jersey area that has experience fixing this particular vehicle for a reasonable price? What are people's thoughts on Aamco? Thanks in advance for all the help!
I would start with a request for Goodwill Assistance from corp based on such low mileage
Did you document- as in receipt thats says PNF Problem Not Found from the dealer on trans prob? Did they ever look at the car a year ago
Speak in person with the service MANAGER and no one else, not the writer/advisor
the manager has the power to call regional acura warranty rep and see what they can do.
Make it clear that you bought that car thinking the Vin cutoff meant problem was fixed!! while acura seems to have picked a number just to settle the court case,,there was no design change at that time..so how were they suddenly better??
read the last several pages of thread titled: Main Tranny Failure Thread
learn tips for goodwill
corp may knock it down to match local prices or more!!
$3500 is a little lower than retail... if that makes you any feel better
local shops should run $2000-2500,sounds like you will need several parts beyond the basics- get new selenoids and the kevlar clutches
good part of acura unit is the new design case with better oil flow and the external jet kit is moved inside,,easier to change and refill fluid
the Big A,,not the best place depending on the exact shop- they have quotas and try to save where possible,,as many shops will do.
Start calling small ads in the phone book, owner operated type place where you speak to the guy doing the work, the manager is the owner and takes pride in their work
Ask how many TL/CL trans they do regularly
Did you document- as in receipt thats says PNF Problem Not Found from the dealer on trans prob? Did they ever look at the car a year ago
Speak in person with the service MANAGER and no one else, not the writer/advisor
the manager has the power to call regional acura warranty rep and see what they can do.
Make it clear that you bought that car thinking the Vin cutoff meant problem was fixed!! while acura seems to have picked a number just to settle the court case,,there was no design change at that time..so how were they suddenly better??
read the last several pages of thread titled: Main Tranny Failure Thread
learn tips for goodwill
corp may knock it down to match local prices or more!!
$3500 is a little lower than retail... if that makes you any feel better
local shops should run $2000-2500,sounds like you will need several parts beyond the basics- get new selenoids and the kevlar clutches
good part of acura unit is the new design case with better oil flow and the external jet kit is moved inside,,easier to change and refill fluid
the Big A,,not the best place depending on the exact shop- they have quotas and try to save where possible,,as many shops will do.
Start calling small ads in the phone book, owner operated type place where you speak to the guy doing the work, the manager is the owner and takes pride in their work
Ask how many TL/CL trans they do regularly
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Thanks 01tl4tl... helpful advice! I bought it to the big A and they are going to let me know what the damages are. I told them about the stuff I read on the boards. At this point, I know Its going to have to cost me the roughly 2-2500 and reading up on the boards - it sounds like Acura is not going to do anything since its out of warranty and my VIN supposedly wasn't part of the extended warranty. Nevertheless, I am going to call Acura corporate and see if I can reason with them to reimburse me something.
its negotiated BEFORE the work is done! and only applies to dealer work
They know full well the Vin cutoff was BS for court, thats why so many got Goodwill!!!!--did you read the thread?
so your car would rightly deserve the same 7.9 years/ 109 kmiles extended warranty the earlier cars all got! Even if a little over on time,,if way low on miles thats a good reason.
If you have receipts of atf fluid changes thats a big help, But it was not required yet at 35kmiles!!
or you reported problem before and they said PNF `problem not found`
START this request with the service MANAGER not the writer/advisors who work on commission--are they looking out for you? NO
tell that person why you feel a discount is in order
If the manager refuses to help or says they wont go any lower than 3500 then contact corp direct,,
always let the dealer try their best first, Corp hates bad comments and problems that could have been taken care of by managers,,there is an order to this
Its an ethics/face thing with acura, company pride is a major thing to japanese companies no matter where they are selling product..
example anything less than all 10s on the service dept survey cards= is bad news that gets right back to the dealer by blackberry!!! discussed at weekly staff meetings, bonus cks affecrted by results of surveys
If you do end up calling corp, dont worry when the minimum wage girl answering the 800# says NO, you are not covered,,,they are not the boss of you!
Their boss is a real acura warranty manager who calls dealer about your history and attitude, do you seem deserving,,You are on acurazine and well informed,,you love your acura, family owns 3
There is a special number/place that deals only with trans warranty probs too
Think lower than $2500!, they need a stated goal/number/resolution as to `what will make you happy` 500, 1000? from there they can negotiate with the goal being you leave happy and tell 2 friends about a good experience,,not get on the internet and tell 11 thousand or millions about a bad experience
if you start high, why should they go lower than what you want,,,get it?
maybe they are thinking 2 g and you ask to pay them 2500,
uhduuuhuuuuhh should we quietly profit on this~? YES they will
the parts dept takes the big hit on profit. acura sells actual trans to dealer for about 1800 and service gets 4-6 hours labor,,ie 500 bucks,,some fluid and tax = there is your 2500
instead of an extra $1000 for parts dept
They know full well the Vin cutoff was BS for court, thats why so many got Goodwill!!!!--did you read the thread?
so your car would rightly deserve the same 7.9 years/ 109 kmiles extended warranty the earlier cars all got! Even if a little over on time,,if way low on miles thats a good reason.
If you have receipts of atf fluid changes thats a big help, But it was not required yet at 35kmiles!!
or you reported problem before and they said PNF `problem not found`
START this request with the service MANAGER not the writer/advisors who work on commission--are they looking out for you? NO
tell that person why you feel a discount is in order
If the manager refuses to help or says they wont go any lower than 3500 then contact corp direct,,
always let the dealer try their best first, Corp hates bad comments and problems that could have been taken care of by managers,,there is an order to this
Its an ethics/face thing with acura, company pride is a major thing to japanese companies no matter where they are selling product..
example anything less than all 10s on the service dept survey cards= is bad news that gets right back to the dealer by blackberry!!! discussed at weekly staff meetings, bonus cks affecrted by results of surveys
If you do end up calling corp, dont worry when the minimum wage girl answering the 800# says NO, you are not covered,,,they are not the boss of you!
Their boss is a real acura warranty manager who calls dealer about your history and attitude, do you seem deserving,,You are on acurazine and well informed,,you love your acura, family owns 3
There is a special number/place that deals only with trans warranty probs too
Think lower than $2500!, they need a stated goal/number/resolution as to `what will make you happy` 500, 1000? from there they can negotiate with the goal being you leave happy and tell 2 friends about a good experience,,not get on the internet and tell 11 thousand or millions about a bad experience
if you start high, why should they go lower than what you want,,,get it?
maybe they are thinking 2 g and you ask to pay them 2500,
uhduuuhuuuuhh should we quietly profit on this~? YES they will
the parts dept takes the big hit on profit. acura sells actual trans to dealer for about 1800 and service gets 4-6 hours labor,,ie 500 bucks,,some fluid and tax = there is your 2500
instead of an extra $1000 for parts dept
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Aug 30, 2011 at 05:30 PM.
hopefully now its in the dealer so they can document the failure
then manager takes charge and is getting approval for major goodwill based on such low mileage,,not even 50 from it? c'mon guys lets get real
next you get a phone call with a great offer that will include the standard 3/36 warranty ,,they all come with when you pay for some of it value 300$
You agree and manager says it will be 4 days,, sorry for the delay sir,,flooding and all you know~. Come get a free loaner car!!
then manager takes charge and is getting approval for major goodwill based on such low mileage,,not even 50 from it? c'mon guys lets get real
next you get a phone call with a great offer that will include the standard 3/36 warranty ,,they all come with when you pay for some of it value 300$
You agree and manager says it will be 4 days,, sorry for the delay sir,,flooding and all you know~. Come get a free loaner car!!
So just wanted to provide an update. I spoke to the service manager who emailed his District Service manager and they agreed to cover 60% of the cost of the tranny. The new tranny will come with the 3yr/36k miles warranty. I'm bringing the car to the dealer today.
Just a question - Is this issue with the tranny basically going to happen again? Since its dealer - I should think they are going to put in a new tranny that is updated to new specs (new design case?) that addresses the heart of the issue or is this fundamentally a design flaw that will just happen after I drive a couple of thousands of miles.
Thanks 01TL4TL for all the help and advice!
Just a question - Is this issue with the tranny basically going to happen again? Since its dealer - I should think they are going to put in a new tranny that is updated to new specs (new design case?) that addresses the heart of the issue or is this fundamentally a design flaw that will just happen after I drive a couple of thousands of miles.
Thanks 01TL4TL for all the help and advice!
acura has facilities that do all their rebuilds of parts
the problem is lessened with better oil passages, but the new ones still wear out
they take a `new design` case (it may be used but new design) and have boxes of parts, new ones like clutches and normal wearout items
and good used parts like gears that came from other returned units
It will have all the latest updates that acura does= except kevlar clutches which are aftermarket
you should expect 70-150kmiles from the trans!
a wide range based on keeping up with fluid change every 15 or 30kmiles
the problem is lessened with better oil passages, but the new ones still wear out
they take a `new design` case (it may be used but new design) and have boxes of parts, new ones like clutches and normal wearout items
and good used parts like gears that came from other returned units
It will have all the latest updates that acura does= except kevlar clutches which are aftermarket
you should expect 70-150kmiles from the trans!
a wide range based on keeping up with fluid change every 15 or 30kmiles
rlk
Happy to hear my advice got you a favorable resolution,, 60% coverage beats the heck out of 4grand!
my suggestion on break-in is treat it like a new car- no full throttle or redline rpm
for the first 500 miles
drive it gentle to normal to allow all those parts to meld into each other--there is actual metal grindage that occurs!--hence the magnetic drain plug~
Go ahead and test SS mode and some vtec runs in D5 to make sure its put together right and connected,,vtec wires sometimes left unplugged
500-1000 miles: more normal plus some aggressive- push it to redline shifts on its own etc
If something is going to fail-- it will in this period
after that: run as desired
because you car appears to sit a lot: run a can of seafoam thru half tank of gas-
do that twice for `tune up in a can`,, and with the fresh trans= you are driving a new car!!
Note: pull the clock fuse for a minute to reset the ECU
let the system learn how to operate with good trans!
Happy to hear my advice got you a favorable resolution,, 60% coverage beats the heck out of 4grand!
my suggestion on break-in is treat it like a new car- no full throttle or redline rpm
for the first 500 miles
drive it gentle to normal to allow all those parts to meld into each other--there is actual metal grindage that occurs!--hence the magnetic drain plug~
Go ahead and test SS mode and some vtec runs in D5 to make sure its put together right and connected,,vtec wires sometimes left unplugged
500-1000 miles: more normal plus some aggressive- push it to redline shifts on its own etc
If something is going to fail-- it will in this period
after that: run as desired
because you car appears to sit a lot: run a can of seafoam thru half tank of gas-
do that twice for `tune up in a can`,, and with the fresh trans= you are driving a new car!!
Note: pull the clock fuse for a minute to reset the ECU
let the system learn how to operate with good trans!
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