Heater not working and TCS lights
Heater not working and TCS lights
When I switch on the heater, the car doesn't get heater up until like 30-35 mins. I tried keeping my hands near the vent and it blows very very light hot air or sometimes cold air too. The a/c works fine though.
Also about a month back I had tire rotation with Firestone. 2 weeks later I noticed that the TCS lights started coming up on the car. This happens approx after 30 secs after I turn on the car but haven't started driving yet. Couple of times I turned the car off and turned it ON again and I still got TCS lights. However if I drive it for about 10-15 mins. Turn it OFF and turn it ON again, then the light doesn't come on. Last year I used to get it during snow sometimes, but presently it's not even snowing here. Although there is lot of cold, but not sure if TCS lights come up just because of cold.
Also about a month back I had tire rotation with Firestone. 2 weeks later I noticed that the TCS lights started coming up on the car. This happens approx after 30 secs after I turn on the car but haven't started driving yet. Couple of times I turned the car off and turned it ON again and I still got TCS lights. However if I drive it for about 10-15 mins. Turn it OFF and turn it ON again, then the light doesn't come on. Last year I used to get it during snow sometimes, but presently it's not even snowing here. Although there is lot of cold, but not sure if TCS lights come up just because of cold.
Check your coolant level. If it's low, look for a leak, if nothing apparent.....have the cooling system pressure checked. Could be air trapped within the system. Also could possibly be a faulty T-stat or rad cap ? Does it seem to take the temp gauge awhile coming up after cold start ?
The TCS lights may be caused by an iffy ABS wheel sensor.
The TCS lights may be caused by an iffy ABS wheel sensor.
I agree
Its the symptoms of a thermostat, use only genuine from Honda dealer 2 stage thermostat
and pressure test the system, is it low before you test etc--3.2 knows what he is talking- or asking about~
have you replaced the water pump with the timing belt??
whats it look like inside radiator when cap is removed??? shiny metal with visible openings or brown rusty crud? How is the cap itself- seal is good? it can be tested
Wheel speed sensor is a fairly cheap and common failure- Was brake work done recently or you live near salt prone areas?
As it happened before, I would suspect internal wearing of the wire to the sensor itself- very rust prone part
Its the symptoms of a thermostat, use only genuine from Honda dealer 2 stage thermostat
and pressure test the system, is it low before you test etc--3.2 knows what he is talking- or asking about~
have you replaced the water pump with the timing belt??
whats it look like inside radiator when cap is removed??? shiny metal with visible openings or brown rusty crud? How is the cap itself- seal is good? it can be tested
Wheel speed sensor is a fairly cheap and common failure- Was brake work done recently or you live near salt prone areas?
As it happened before, I would suspect internal wearing of the wire to the sensor itself- very rust prone part
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Nov 18, 2014 at 10:28 PM.
the TCS light will come on when you get front wheel spin below 16 mph/25kph
the faster wheel will have the brake applied rapidly on and off to reduce speed and hopefully gain traction
System intent is to get you started up an icy hill from a dead stop
When its working/active the light on dash flashes to let you know- ease off the gas!
the faster wheel will have the brake applied rapidly on and off to reduce speed and hopefully gain traction
System intent is to get you started up an icy hill from a dead stop
When its working/active the light on dash flashes to let you know- ease off the gas!
Check your coolant level. If it's low, look for a leak, if nothing apparent.....have the cooling system pressure checked. Could be air trapped within the system. Also could possibly be a faulty T-stat or rad cap ? Does it seem to take the temp gauge awhile coming up after cold start ?
The TCS lights may be caused by an iffy ABS wheel sensor.
The TCS lights may be caused by an iffy ABS wheel sensor.
I had got ABS lights ON too once along with TCS lights. But after car restart it went off and then I was noticing just the TCS lights.
I agree
Its the symptoms of a thermostat, use only genuine from Honda dealer 2 stage thermostat
and pressure test the system, is it low before you test etc--3.2 knows what he is talking- or asking about~
have you replaced the water pump with the timing belt??
whats it look like inside radiator when cap is removed??? shiny metal with visible openings or brown rusty crud? How is the cap itself- seal is good? it can be tested
Wheel speed sensor is a fairly cheap and common failure- Was brake work done recently or you live near salt prone areas?
As it happened before, I would suspect internal wearing of the wire to the sensor itself- very rust prone part
Its the symptoms of a thermostat, use only genuine from Honda dealer 2 stage thermostat
and pressure test the system, is it low before you test etc--3.2 knows what he is talking- or asking about~
have you replaced the water pump with the timing belt??
whats it look like inside radiator when cap is removed??? shiny metal with visible openings or brown rusty crud? How is the cap itself- seal is good? it can be tested
Wheel speed sensor is a fairly cheap and common failure- Was brake work done recently or you live near salt prone areas?
As it happened before, I would suspect internal wearing of the wire to the sensor itself- very rust prone part
For this time I was thinking to visit a mechanic and get it fixed. Was trying to look if this is a common issue and if there is something I could quickly check myself.
the TCS light will come on when you get front wheel spin below 16 mph/25kph
the faster wheel will have the brake applied rapidly on and off to reduce speed and hopefully gain traction
System intent is to get you started up an icy hill from a dead stop
When its working/active the light on dash flashes to let you know- ease off the gas!
the faster wheel will have the brake applied rapidly on and off to reduce speed and hopefully gain traction
System intent is to get you started up an icy hill from a dead stop
When its working/active the light on dash flashes to let you know- ease off the gas!
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Another thing to check for the heat........would be the heater valve located underhood near the passenger side firewall where the heater hoses enter. The valve sometimes will stick, try lubing it and the linkage while someone turns the heat on & off inside. Simple enough to try !!!
Another thing to check for the heat........would be the heater valve located underhood near the passenger side firewall where the heater hoses enter. The valve sometimes will stick, try lubing it and the linkage while someone turns the heat on & off inside. Simple enough to try !!!
Hmmm, I guess I will have to now learn to check the coolant along with oil every month.
When the mechanic added coolant, did they perform a pressure check of the cooling system ? Also, the system requires proper purging of any air pockets to work effectively.So, there was a CEL with codes ? Did the mechanic tell ya what they were for ? If the CEL comes back on, take the car to most any local auto parts store for a free check of codes.
Keep an ongoing PM log of any problems and maintenance. Check the 2nd Gen's "DIY" sticky for basic common problems and fixes. Any questions, just ask !!! There's a wealth of information right here, available by searching the subject of interest. Plenty of experienced help is available.
Last edited by 3.2TLc; Nov 19, 2014 at 05:13 PM.
MUST do the correct burping of air from the cooling system if you expect it to work right
It involves running engine at idle and at 2000 rpm a few times with cooling fan operation on and off- rad cap OFF
Not going to give the sequence again- its in your owner book
hopefully the dealer- was it an acura dealer you got the car from? would replace the water pump with timing belt- its the part right behind the tbelt and critical to engine life!
Would have saved us a lot of time to know the car was low on coolant~
watch the coolant res bottle- make sure hose inside its cap is secure and sitting in coolant- fluid at LOW or COLD mark when cold
It involves running engine at idle and at 2000 rpm a few times with cooling fan operation on and off- rad cap OFF
Not going to give the sequence again- its in your owner book
hopefully the dealer- was it an acura dealer you got the car from? would replace the water pump with timing belt- its the part right behind the tbelt and critical to engine life!
Would have saved us a lot of time to know the car was low on coolant~
watch the coolant res bottle- make sure hose inside its cap is secure and sitting in coolant- fluid at LOW or COLD mark when cold
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