You should probably start your own new thread. Your post will be lost in here...

 

I have the same problem with my 99 TL

 

which problem--headlight quits while driving but turn switch off and on and it works again?

or different problem?

most of us are ready or overdue for bulbs
and with the low price of these aftermarket complete kits, its hard to say no to replacing all parts and it will be fixed for sure!!
under $100 ,,sometimes half of that on special!! for both sides!!

 

passenger side ballast out, at least i'm pretty sure. just purchased the hidextra kit(5000k) for my 01 tl for $54 shipped, kind of a no-brainer for that price. i'll report back once installed.

 

just finished up, took about 4 hours from start to finish. everything is working as of now, only pain was getting the lack of mounting points for the ballast tie down brackets, had to rig it a little. hope this kit holds up.

 

brackets?? zip ties!!! the `zip-tie train` if you dont have a jumbo size one
attaches it right to the frame rail

wont hurt to use that ground wire, use screw for ballast and a bolt or metal screw for other end to frame
may need more zip ties to keep extra wire tidy under the housing

note: new bulbs require 50+ hours use to get to full color stabilization and lumens output.
make it a point to drive with them on all the time to get to best condition

ck your headlight aim too

 

Thanks for posting this. I just ordered one. I really didn't want to cut my OEM harness. No real reason, just a feeling that it might cause more problems. I'll report back after I install the hidExtra kit.

 

I just replaced the ballast and ignitor on the passenger side also put in new bulb, but I the light dies while driving, but comes back on if I cycle the switch off and back on.

What's going on? There are references to messing with the relay, but not quite sure where that is. Help? TY.

 

mestizoracer310 - FYI, this connector is not the corrector for making an OEM harness. I ordered one, but it is not the same connector as is on our OEM ballasts. It's a slightly different shape and the contacts on the inside are spaced differently.

 

My 99 3.2TL headlights issue is similar, however, it started by coming on by itself even when the light switch is off, which usually leads to dead battery. Now the passanger side light does not come on even when turned on. At the same time both headlights stopped coming on by itself. I'm thinking, the bulb just needs replacement, but reading some of the posts, I am afraid it might be more than just bulb issue. Has anyone experience this before?

 

never heard of first prob- comes on without switch!! thats probably in the stalk switch itself--it comes apart from the rest of the stuff there

with ours cars ballast and ignitor moisture issues, the easy fix is replace all.
you dont even have to remove the stock parts, kit has way smaller parts and mounts in a different location, of your choice
www.hidextra.com look up your car, see the $59 kit, suggest optional relay kit $16
(1 handles both sides) to bypass acuras wiring and any potential probs in there
see coupons online or on their website for 10-15% off, mention acurazine as where you heard about them

Suggest 5000k color bulbs for closest to oe- with a little more blue, lots of white on road to see with
ships from Ca same or next day (weekdays)
many of us are running them now

 

ima take 01tl4tl's advice...i'll keep u guys posted when i get done...

 

I too used a ZIP-Tie Train to secure my HIDExtra ballasts. I drilled holes in the factory ribbing, fed the ties through the holes, and tightened.

I also sealed the new ballasts with RTV Windshield Sealer that I had.

Even though I specified the reflector-type bulbs (with the "sunblock" strips), they sent me the Projector-type bulbs (clear glass). I swear that the lights do not have the sharp cut-off pattern as they did before.


But like 01tl4tl says, you can't beat the price.

 

Thanks all. I jut received the HID kit, we let you'all know the result. Regarding the light coming on by itself, I hope the kit will fix it. Keeping my fingers cross.

 

carbuff, ck which base number your year uses D2r or D2C etc,,ck owner book
call seller if its not right and they will swap you
need to order by part number/year, not description~

sparky- you will need to enlarge 1 edge of the hole on bottem of housing, where wires for bulb will come out--its tricky to get both the connectors thru otherwise
I used a file to give more space and put them thru one at a time

route the bulb wire inside so it sits comfortably/stays on bulb- you will see what I mean

the round cover to the housing back wont go on fully without cutting out its internal stuff,,I put mine on just a little and gorilla tape over it to seal,,someday will cut out the covers so it looks better
a torx 20 security tip is needed to remove the cover- or a dremel turns it into a normal flatblade screw!

 

The bulbs I got had two sets of locating "tabs". I was careful to mount the new bulbs in the same orientation as OE. I called (not emailed) before I placed my order and talked to HIDExtra with the yr/make and the type of bulbs (D2R) I needed.(The box with the new bulbs did not have any markings at all!) Oh Well.

I cut the center of the OE grommet out, then once I inserted the new wiring I re-sealed the center of the grommet with RTV. Had no problems fitting the round cover, it fit fine.

'Course now I see that there are 35/50Watt switchable ballasts! That would have been cool to fit.
http://www.retrosolutionsllc.com/ser...VERSION/Detail

Don't confuse brightness (wattage) with color ( Deg. Kelvin)

 

dont confuse LUMENS with wattage

 

You are correct of course.



Wattage is energy draw, lumens are brightness.

A high-efficiency lighting system would provide a maximum number of lumens for a given wattage.

In the Old Days of incandescent lighting, brighter lights meant powering higher wattage. That's not true anymore.

Just wait until LED headlamps come down in price!


(Of course, an efficient lens/reflector is important as well. Hot Spots or Dark Areas in a headlight pattern are not desired attributes.)


That's my final contribution towards Thread Drift!

 

Hello all,

I installed the new ballasts with (D2r) bulbs, but non of the lights work. Checked connections, reversed the ballasts connections, tried everything I could think of, but no luck. I also called HIDextra but no one picked the phone.

With the after market kit, do I need to bypass the OE "HID system inverter"? if so what connectors do I need?

 

Do you mean "IGNITER" (inside the headlamp)? If so, it should have been removed.

The HIDExtra kit has it's own igniters (contained in the red bulb connectors)



The only electrical thing I kept on the car from the original headlamp system was 4 inches of the original wiring that plugged into the car's harness.

I also tried both lights BEFORE I buttoned everything up. It's bad luck not to try them first!


Did your new lamps have the black masking, same as OE, or were they clear?

 

No, I am talking about numer 11 in the above diagram. I removed number 2(igniter).

The bulbs are exactly the same with the OE (clear D2R), no black masking.

I took the lights apart and reinstall it outside the light housing with no luck.

Carbuff, Did you use the relay cable with your kit?

 

#11 is the OE ballast (marked as such on the warning sticker). I re-used the plug and wires ONLY from the right side of it, in the picture. The silver ballasts that came in the kit replaced the gray-cased OE ones #11. I soldered (not crimped) the new ballast's wires to the old plug.

This the only part that was re-used. (Well, I also reinstalled the grommet (looks like a bell) that covers the wires coming from the left side of #11 . Did my best to seal the headlamp units as well as OE!)

I was advised by HIDExtra that the '99 Acura would NOT need the relay harness so I didn't order it. No flickering issues so far. Each side is individually fused (up near the passenger side engine bay wall), are you sure these fuses are OK?

I would see if you get 12V at the plug near #6, coming into #11. Otherwise, is it possible that the bulb sockets are not fully twisted into the Locked position?
+++++++++++++++++

Interesting that your old bulbs were clear. Our OEs had the masked area on one side, they were German Osrams. The other Topic referred to in this thread, said the masked ones were for the Acura-style reflector housings (D2R), and clear was for the projector type (D2S).

 

Thanks Carbuff. I think my problem is the #11. I should have remove it from the circuit. I'll reconnect and let you know how it goes. I really appreciate the help.

 

cut the connector off the main 2 wires going to the ballast- stock

make a connection from new ballast wires (after cutting off blade connectors or buying a set of their other side and installing on OE wire ends)

soldered preferred over crimped, inline preferred over side by side crimp connection
Use protective cover- shrink wrap or electrical tape will do - protect connection

 

the relay kit isnt required- some of us do have prob with relays/fusebox not liking aftermarket parts voltage variences--

so we bypass acuras entire wiring and get 12 volt direct from the battery,,with its own new wires-fuse and relay

 

Headlights/Ballasts installation and optest completed and satisfactory. Many thanks to everyone that helped me through the installation.

Next Project: Cleaning the EGR/intake manifold.
Any advice on how to proceed is highly welcome.

Few questions that I need help with:
1. How to drain the cooling system?
2. How to relieve fuel pressure?

 

see the diy `thermoblock spacer install and egr cleaning` and there should be a newer one focused on egr port and passage cleaning with pics,,many have said they would post,,,

radiator drain plug on driver side lower rear corner
engine block drain on right rear corner---see diy section and burp per book method

note: make sure heater is set to full hot, so it drains its portion of coolant back into the system

 

MORE THREAD DRIFT?

^^^ I don't remember having to drain the coolant...you might release a few drips at the throttle body.

I don't remember having to release fuel system pressure either, but maybe I did. It's been several years.

Otherwise follow the DIY. I would check and adjust valve clearance during this service.

 

Anyone knows where i could buy bulbs(HID-D2R) locally in fort Lauderdale, FL.
my bulb just die out and i don't want to wait days on a online store to ship, got to work and i drive at night

 

few stores carry the HID bulbs we need,,maybe a speed shop?
Its only a day or 2 away if you call our sponsor HIDEXTRA.com
ships from near SFO,,unreal low prices on quality bulbs and ballast kits
Suggest color 5000k for closest to stocks 4300

Use high beams for extra light right now,,,been there~

is it really bulb death you had? was there a pink tint to light on startup recently??
thats the age death warning

Sudden loss of bulb can be bulb or IF you have moisture inside hosuing lens,
that kills the ballast and capacitor===the reason the $59 full ballast `kits` on that website are so popular!

 

try swapping the relay for each light to eliminate electrical prob as reason

 

LOL i had a cop pull me over and look at my light it was out i told him if goes on and off..yeah sure i heard that before..cop goes to his car comes back out takes a look at my lights again then as he was about to write the ticket he walks to my door.He said it's back on i can't give u a ticket have a good nite...ever since then i drive with my highbeams my lights arent strong so its as if its my reg lights. plus for some dumb reason my light point all the way down i havengot a chance to adj them yet..my light is pink and does turn on and off while driving.I can toggle the light switch and it might come back on.Im just going to get a new hid kit with retro fitted lights.

 

no reto fit involved!!
a straight HID parts replacement is all you have to do

the 59$ kit from www.hidextra.com contains all needed parts,
suggest 5000k color bulbs for best to see road with,,stock was 4300, these are a little more blue, but lots of white on road surface

driving with high beams on will get you a ticket for `failure to dim lights` for approaching traffic--usually a cop~

Once you install the new bulbs and ballast/capacitor setup, your light problem is solved

 

sidenote: cars with lights on high beams, that wont dim-- are looked at by Police as STOLEN!!

when the column gets punched- the light switch often gets damaged and stuck on high beams.

 

Update: those ballasts went out too. warranty long expired. found 55W slim ballast kit w/ lifetime warranty from DDM tuning. it did make my 3000k bulbs a little lighter (hue wise). so they're not as deep yellow as they were w/ 35W ballasts.

anyway, now i'm debating on these LED kits w/ the "ballasts"......instant on, most of the ones i'm looking at have built in heat sinks and cooling fans....the low beams i'm having trouble finding at the moment, D2R's in LED aren't that popular yet. but i've found tons of LED kits for the high beams and fogs....

 

Having this problem myself....light flickers for a few seconds on drivers side and then dies. Thinking of going this route after talking to my mechanic. Just curious, why not go with 6000k for brighter light?

 

Welcome Harrow !!!
Check for signs of moisture. It may be simply a worn out bulb.....but, considering the new improved aftermarket replacement kits are not much more expensive than trying new bulbs, many have updated. Check out previous threads on our TL's "HID" set-up and all of the DIY's to help guide ya through the installation.

 

6000 is not brighter- its a higher wavelength of light spectrum

stock was 4300, 5k offers a bit more blue than stock that highlights lane and road signs better, the 6k loses a lot of white on the road in front of you- I tested it with one of each on my TL

I love the 6000 `Kelvin color` for its ability to REALLY light up road signs and lane markings-semi truck markings jump out a mile away! but hit a dark backroad and its no doubt- 5000K will keep you safer- IMO- by lighting objects on the road you need to avoid

My 01 runs the 5000k bulb on both sides now- on the hidextra 35 watt standard `kit`

 

want brighter light? more light?
get an aftermarket set of mini driving lights of good quality and focused distance, or wider local area beam pattern
install under bumper or hide in lower grill slats

 

My '04 TL started having problems two weeks ago with hi & low beams on passenger side going on and off at random. After a week of reading, changing bulbs, testing, troubleshooting and being pulled over twice, gave in and went to dealership. Turns out the ignitor/inverter gone out. $1,000.00 to replace including labor. WTH?! I do love my TL, but keeping this car running properly is far worse than my Lexus was.