2003 TL-S Stock...
Ive been chasing codes (P0300-6, P1399, Code for IACV) for a couple of weeks now. I did the swap the coil game and that helped for the individual codes, and cleaned the IACV and got rid of that code, now I have the VSA light on permanently and with no engine light on it shows only P1399 on the scanner. I can still feel a slight stumble in the engine.
I took the car to Acura and they stated they were not sure what the problem was and would need to replace all the coils! Ive replaced the plugs, air filter, cleaned the EGR, intake manifolds, checked all lines and connections for leaks...fluids are topped off.....can the battery cause these problems if its weak? Ive been putting off O2 sensors...Thanks for any help!

 

Since it is VSA, could it be the speed sensor. If the dealer has no idea, it would be tough to find out what the problem is. Maybe different avatar will help.

 

Gee holding ones hand under Buddha's chin suppose to bring good luck!

 

if you have the p1399 it mines there is still a missfire and the check engine light will come on have you remove the EGR valve and check the door to see if it sit flat carbin can get stuck under the door and cause missfire if that is good then you have tit valve the vsa is on becuase of powertran problem you need to fix that frist and the vsa will be ok

 

Well, New Avatar...for now...

I am still tired of finding P1399 on my scanner!
I have changed Coils (Coils read 18 to 19K ohms) and plugs (NGK Iridiums), cleaned the intake system (Plenum, TB), checked for vacuum leaks, , cleaned EGR... what next? I think I have to begin replacing parts, i.e., EGR,
O2s? The engine still feels like its stumbling. I only get the P1399 code, so ambigious...thanks for past responses, any further help would be so appreciated!

 

When troubleshooting misfire DTCs (P0301 thru
P0306) with the PGM Tester, look at the freeze
data values for the throttle position (TP) sensor
and the exhaust gas recirculation valve lift sensor
(EGR VLS).
If the EGR VLS value is more than 1.25 volts and
the TP sensor value is 0.5 volt (closed throttle), the
EGR valve opened when it should have been
closed, and it is defective. Replace the EGR valve.
If the TP sensor value is more than 0.5 volt and the
vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and RPM values
indicate that the DTC was set while the vehicle
was moving, write down or print out the EGR VLS
value. Then, drive the vehicle at the same VSS and
RPM values as shown in the freeze data, and note
the EGR VLS value:
• If the freeze data EGR VLS value is more than
1.25 volts but the EGR VLS value from the test
drive is less than 1.25 volts, the EGR valve was
stuck open, and it is defective. Replace the
EGR valve.
• If the EGR VLS value from the test drive is
similar to the EGR VLS value on the freeze
data, the EGR valve is OK and isn’t the cause
of your misfire DTCs. Look for other possible
causes.

When owners of ’00–03 3.2TLs, ’01–03 3.2CLs, and
’01–02 MDXs complain about the engine running
rough between 40 and 70 mph, are you finding
misfire DTCs (P0301 thru P0306, P1399, P0133)
set? The problem could be clogged EGR ports or
an upside-down intake manifold upper cover
gasket. Since the EGR ports aren’t symmetrical, an
upside-down gasket covers some of the ports,
creating uneven EGR distribution.
To check if the upper cover gasket is correctly
installed, remove the plastic intake manifold
cover. If you see a locating tab on the gasket at the
throttle body end of the intake manifold, toward
the rear cylinder head, the gasket is installed
properly. If you don’t see this tab, the gasket is
installed upside down and must be replaced.
Remove the upper cover and the gasket, and
clean out the EGR ports. Reinstall the gasket (use
a new one if it was installed upside-down),
making sure the locating tab on the gasket faces
toward the rear cylinder head. Reinstall the upper
cover, and torque the bolts and nuts to spec.
Reinstall the intake manifold cover, and you’re
done.

there are 6 different EGR ports on the intake manifold when you pull off the cover. make sure their all clean. if you dont mind the drive come to north jersey i can help u out with this.

 

Thanks for the response juanclopez2786,

Thanks for the offer to help look at it, I wish Icould drive the car there, I have friends in NJ (Edison) so I am there often...but I dont think the car will make it!

I have a Memoscan OBDII scanner, limited info in it, I only get P1399 for a DTC and some Live Data info:

MAP 8.8
IAT (degrees) 91
TPS 9.8%
o2 1 volt 0.210- 2.3%

I completely removed and cleaned the intake plenum, throttle body and EGR, took it out for a ride and it still has a stumble, but felt stronger, then I let the car sit and drive it again and it is back to stumbling worse...if the Cat was plugged, I don't think it would run better one minute then lousy the next. maybe still crap in the fuel line? its on its 2nd tank of 93 octane with 1/2 can seafoam added each tank (at near empty).

I feel like either I take it to a garage or start buying more expensive parts...

 

since u changed plugs and coils and ur still getting this code and everything else is cleaned and it runs worse id say its injectors. its too bad u cant get the car here cuz i have a snap on modis that i could hook up to the car and see the live data and the data list from when the code set. the scope would really help with diagnosing this problem so if you decide to bring it to a garage make sure they have one. hope you resolve this problem ASAP.

 

I have seen O2s give that code many times now, especially after plugs and coil packs.

 

o2 sensors are worth a try, thanks for the fast responses, this site is great!

 

If the scanner reads (at idle)

ST FTRM1 1.5
LT FTRM2 0.0 (this one does not change under load)

could that mean o2 sensor not reading?

 

no the long term fuel trim good that is to chang when short term fuel trim is up to high too long then long term will go up to hold short.i saw the map sensor voltage is that 8.8 volt or .8 volt it should be at 0.8 at idle

 

MAP should be around .8-1.0 v if its more than 1.1 it will run rough as hell. It will be a loss of power also, what happens is the exhaust valves are slightly open causing a leak. Compression escapes and your power stroke (the HP stroke in the engine) looses combustion pressures and it goes out the exhaust.

We see about 10 MDX a week @ our dealer for Valve adjustments.

Check your EGR valve lift voltage.... not sure what your generic scanner reads.

FIND a better dealer or ask for a better tech.

 

sorry for not being clear about the MAP reading, it reads 8.8 in.hg. the scanner is a small handled type, not a lot of info.
I'm trying to not go to a garage if I can...but looks like i will have to...
thanks again for the help!

 

UPDATE

I replaced the EGR valve ande it didn't make a difference...
just made an appointment with a local (trusted) garage...

keep ya posted.

 

yeah after i cleaned my iacv my vsa light and the exclamation mark stayed on as well

nothing wrong with the car, everything runs normal just the 2 lights are on

dealership wanted 125 bux to JUST read the code EFFF that ill just drive it as is unless you can find a cure hopefully..

 

got a call from the garage, diagnosis is faulty injectors.
they said $1,000+ to replace injectors ($120 a piece) and plenum gasket...I asked if they need to replace all of them, the mech. said if two are bad, then the rest aren't too far off...any truth in his rationale?

 

rock auto has the injectors for a max price of 53 each. you can replace them urself its super easy.. id agree that the other injectors arent far off from going bad. its better to do them all now tho but not for 120 each thats crazy...

 

the garage said they checked the injectors and they appear fine. they are now talking about coil packs, I told them i did the coil packs, but they still suspect this is the problem...sounds like they are fishing like I was...

 

Not to sound like an ass but how about getting the codes read for free at a auto parts store and finding out what is really wrong. Just because it seems to run ok doent mean it is.

Also did you reset the ECU after doing the work. You need to do that or they wont go off.

 

If codes are being thrown, then there is something wrong, a worst case scenario may be a misfire that can do damage to your pistons, I couldn't figure out what was wrong (only one single code P1399) and not wanting to do any further damage, brought it to someone with more experience and tools...in the end it may be expensive, but the car will be good again.

 

doesnt seem like a very reliable garage if their telling u one thing with a price and now tellin u something else. find out how they checked the injectors?? they appear fine? thats suspicious cuz either it is or it isnt you cant just look at them and say yea their bad. id ask why they think its coils?

 

any new update??

 

yeah, after spending too much money at the garage, they replaced the front 3 injectors...something I could have done, but in the frustration of trying everything else three hundred times, I went to the garage and now my wallet is lighter, but the car is running great.

I wonder if initially running Seafoam loosened up enough junk to plug the injectors?

The VSA light and /!\ light were from a black connection on the first TB (closest to the filter) being installed wrong, I reinstalled it and the lights went off...

 

Sounds like a problem I have.. Every time i'd drive it seem like the vsa lights would come on(CEL already on) same codesp300-306, and the random misfire code.. I replaced spark plugs,egr, cleaned egr ports, valve adjustment, removed my ur pulley, seafoamed and still couldn't figure out the problem.. Everytime i would reset the ecu it would come back on really fast..I'm wondering if my injectors need to be replaced.. I kno everytime i'd do seafoam it would trigger my cel/vsa lights..