Gas Mileage after TB/IM spacers install
11-23-2010, 09:51 AM
#1
Gas Mileage after TB/IM spacers install
During the past two fill-ups I've noticed a dramatic decrease in my MPG's. I normally get around 23 with normal city/highway commuting. Now I am noticing I am averaging 19 MPG with the same conditions of driving.
I started to notice the changes after I installed the Outlaw Engineering Throttle Body and Intake Manifold Spacers. I torqued everything down correctly, in sequence...but I have no idea why this might have something to do with the bad gas mileage.
What do you guys think?
btw...only 93 Octane
I started to notice the changes after I installed the Outlaw Engineering Throttle Body and Intake Manifold Spacers. I torqued everything down correctly, in sequence...but I have no idea why this might have something to do with the bad gas mileage.
What do you guys think?
btw...only 93 Octane
11-23-2010, 10:46 AM
#3
go back and ck all vac lines are on good, and no leaks at end of lines?
all lines are correct in location--didnt put the coolant line to vac?
ck torque again--intake and exhaust bolts like to loosen slightly within the first 500 miles and should always be re'ckd--that probably not in any instructions~
tb to manifold torque correct?
a can of carb cleaner used to spray at vac lines with engine running at idle- will result in rpm change if you find a leak
ecu shouldnt be at fault in this case but a reset never hurt
tire pressures are good?
spark plug age?
no codes?
all lines are correct in location--didnt put the coolant line to vac?
ck torque again--intake and exhaust bolts like to loosen slightly within the first 500 miles and should always be re'ckd--that probably not in any instructions~
tb to manifold torque correct?
a can of carb cleaner used to spray at vac lines with engine running at idle- will result in rpm change if you find a leak
ecu shouldnt be at fault in this case but a reset never hurt
tire pressures are good?
spark plug age?
no codes?
11-23-2010, 12:23 PM
#4
go back and ck all vac lines are on good, and no leaks at end of lines?
all lines are correct in location--didnt put the coolant line to vac?
ck torque again--intake and exhaust bolts like to loosen slightly within the first 500 miles and should always be re'ckd--that probably not in any instructions~
tb to manifold torque correct?
a can of carb cleaner used to spray at vac lines with engine running at idle- will result in rpm change if you find a leak
ecu shouldnt be at fault in this case but a reset never hurt
tire pressures are good?
spark plug age?
no codes?
all lines are correct in location--didnt put the coolant line to vac?
ck torque again--intake and exhaust bolts like to loosen slightly within the first 500 miles and should always be re'ckd--that probably not in any instructions~
tb to manifold torque correct?
a can of carb cleaner used to spray at vac lines with engine running at idle- will result in rpm change if you find a leak
ecu shouldnt be at fault in this case but a reset never hurt
tire pressures are good?
spark plug age?
no codes?
Spark plugs are only about 1.5 years old if that (NGK Iridium)
No codes.
I know I torqued everything good because I am EXTREMELY PARANOID about it ever since I over torqued a IM cover bolt and snapped it
I did notice some of the vac lines may have been a little nasty at the tips (torn a little bit).
What would be the best way to make sure all the vac lines are going to the right places? What would be a symptom if they weren't in the correct spots?
11-23-2010, 12:39 PM
#5
ahh- it wouldnt run right,, and would get bad gas mileage?
on torque--what I meant was: after several heat and cool cycles- the bolts you so carefully set can be loose by a few pounds! not your fault--blame thermodynamics
I would ck the manifold bolts- under the top cover- as they are subject to heat changes = even though the spacer is blocking transfer heat- the bolts still get it thru the core heat
vac line ends need to be clean and tight- no cracking or tearing
Shoot carb cleaner at them with engine running- you will know if one is bad
Some people mark the lines before removal, or look in the diys for pics after~
Visual--does the line appear to be in the correct place--they have taken a shape by now
Never hurts to replace vac lines
are you losing any coolant from rad or res?
on torque--what I meant was: after several heat and cool cycles- the bolts you so carefully set can be loose by a few pounds! not your fault--blame thermodynamics
I would ck the manifold bolts- under the top cover- as they are subject to heat changes = even though the spacer is blocking transfer heat- the bolts still get it thru the core heat
vac line ends need to be clean and tight- no cracking or tearing
Shoot carb cleaner at them with engine running- you will know if one is bad
Some people mark the lines before removal, or look in the diys for pics after~
Visual--does the line appear to be in the correct place--they have taken a shape by now
Never hurts to replace vac lines
are you losing any coolant from rad or res?
11-23-2010, 12:51 PM
#6
Thanks for all the info on checking. I'm going to get back to you on all of those, I've been extremely busy with grad school...it hurts me to know that something is going on with her and not being able to do anything about it, lol.
11-24-2010, 09:42 AM
#7
I just re-torqued those bolts...I cannot believe how much they needed to be torqued. Glad I did that, but I think I did find the solution to all of my problems.
I forgot to mention a ticking noise that I have been hearing and after searching this site, I'm pretty sure it is the Purge Control Solenoid (https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/purge-solenoid-valve-gas-mileage-478374/)
So considering everyone in that thread had the same problems with noise and gas mileage, I'm pretty sure that the problem right there. I'm gonna go grab it at my local Acura dealership ($50). It looks very easy to just pop the other one off and put the new one in.
I forgot to mention a ticking noise that I have been hearing and after searching this site, I'm pretty sure it is the Purge Control Solenoid (https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/purge-solenoid-valve-gas-mileage-478374/)
So considering everyone in that thread had the same problems with noise and gas mileage, I'm pretty sure that the problem right there. I'm gonna go grab it at my local Acura dealership ($50). It looks very easy to just pop the other one off and put the new one in.
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11-24-2010, 12:38 PM
#8
that should not be a gas mileage cause, but if the noise bothers you--ok
otherwise lets focus on remaining issue of bad end seals on vac lines
and replace those or trim end as need- if room available on hose- most are minimum length already and a few dollars of new vac line never hurt
So I was correct on those bolts holding intake down??
everyone needs to go back and ck after 500 miles?
I learned this on the old chevy v8 and a cross country trip right after manifold gasket job,,didnt retighten at 500 miles and blew the gasket,,,bummer
otherwise lets focus on remaining issue of bad end seals on vac lines
and replace those or trim end as need- if room available on hose- most are minimum length already and a few dollars of new vac line never hurt
So I was correct on those bolts holding intake down??
everyone needs to go back and ck after 500 miles?
I learned this on the old chevy v8 and a cross country trip right after manifold gasket job,,didnt retighten at 500 miles and blew the gasket,,,bummer
11-24-2010, 02:49 PM
#9
that should not be a gas mileage cause, but if the noise bothers you--ok
otherwise lets focus on remaining issue of bad end seals on vac lines
and replace those or trim end as need- if room available on hose- most are minimum length already and a few dollars of new vac line never hurt
So I was correct on those bolts holding intake down??
everyone needs to go back and ck after 500 miles?
I learned this on the old chevy v8 and a cross country trip right after manifold gasket job,,didnt retighten at 500 miles and blew the gasket,,,bummer
otherwise lets focus on remaining issue of bad end seals on vac lines
and replace those or trim end as need- if room available on hose- most are minimum length already and a few dollars of new vac line never hurt
So I was correct on those bolts holding intake down??
everyone needs to go back and ck after 500 miles?
I learned this on the old chevy v8 and a cross country trip right after manifold gasket job,,didnt retighten at 500 miles and blew the gasket,,,bummer
You were ABSOLUTELY correct on those new bolts. For some of them it was almost a full quarter turn until the torque wrenched popped.
11-24-2010, 06:52 PM
#10
I do enjoy when my experiences in life can lead someone to a correct diagnosis--
ok- I just love being right! thats why I come here~
wow 1/4 turn on a 16 pound limit, thats got to be 2-3 lb loss!! thats enough to cause running issues
Was it only the new bolts with the spacer or all of them?
new bolts undergo a stretch
everyone- re'ck your bolts 500 miles or so after spacer install - or egr port cleaning via manifold removal
same rule applies to new headers--re'ck torque in 500 miles
ok- I just love being right! thats why I come here~
wow 1/4 turn on a 16 pound limit, thats got to be 2-3 lb loss!! thats enough to cause running issues
Was it only the new bolts with the spacer or all of them?
new bolts undergo a stretch
everyone- re'ck your bolts 500 miles or so after spacer install - or egr port cleaning via manifold removal
same rule applies to new headers--re'ck torque in 500 miles
11-26-2010, 08:37 AM
#11
I do enjoy when my experiences in life can lead someone to a correct diagnosis--
ok- I just love being right! thats why I come here~
wow 1/4 turn on a 16 pound limit, thats got to be 2-3 lb loss!! thats enough to cause running issues
Was it only the new bolts with the spacer or all of them?
new bolts undergo a stretch
everyone- re'ck your bolts 500 miles or so after spacer install - or egr port cleaning via manifold removal
same rule applies to new headers--re'ck torque in 500 miles
ok- I just love being right! thats why I come here~
wow 1/4 turn on a 16 pound limit, thats got to be 2-3 lb loss!! thats enough to cause running issues
Was it only the new bolts with the spacer or all of them?
new bolts undergo a stretch
everyone- re'ck your bolts 500 miles or so after spacer install - or egr port cleaning via manifold removal
same rule applies to new headers--re'ck torque in 500 miles
Maybe about 2-3 of them were perfectly at 16. All of the bolts were replaced with the new spacers. The bolts on the IM cover are only supposed to be torqued to 9lbs
11-26-2010, 11:15 AM
#12
16 lbs was referrring to the manifold bolts themself, not the cover
with all new bolts I am not the least surprised at them coming loose a tick--thats thermodymanics in action
now replace the suspect vac lines and it will purr again
with all new bolts I am not the least surprised at them coming loose a tick--thats thermodymanics in action
now replace the suspect vac lines and it will purr again
12-05-2010, 08:47 PM
#14
the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash -- is the `secret backup power` to the ECU
remove it for a minute and reinsert-
that forced a master reset and relearn
No prob with any saved radio stations or security--thats why we use this fuse over removing neg battery cable--that requires extra effort
remove it for a minute and reinsert-
that forced a master reset and relearn
No prob with any saved radio stations or security--thats why we use this fuse over removing neg battery cable--that requires extra effort
01-23-2011, 11:19 AM
#19
loose intake manifold bolts allow massive vac leaks = poor combustion = lousy mileage
low tire pressure = more surface area contact = increased drag = lowered mileage
new toys on my baby = extreme fuel consumption until the new wears off
low tire pressure = more surface area contact = increased drag = lowered mileage
new toys on my baby = extreme fuel consumption until the new wears off
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