Fan Running
#1
Fan Running
The fan continues to run more than it used to, on my 2001 Acura TL after I shut the engine off. I've had the coolant levels checked and the radiator checked for blockage but the problem persists. Any input on why this is occurring and how to fix it?
#4
On the TL this is a serious and fairly common issue
First ck the rad and res bottle levels are full/full line when cold
ck rad cap for good pressure seal--parts store can do that for you
next -its probably the fan temp sensor located passenger bottem corner of radiator
unscrew-remove- screw in new one- attach power wire -fan problem fixed
When its bad the fan may run for 20-30 minutes or until battery dies!
When operating correctly it will allow fan for maybe 2 minutes after shutdown, to compensate for temp spike when engine is shut off
First ck the rad and res bottle levels are full/full line when cold
ck rad cap for good pressure seal--parts store can do that for you
next -its probably the fan temp sensor located passenger bottem corner of radiator
unscrew-remove- screw in new one- attach power wire -fan problem fixed
When its bad the fan may run for 20-30 minutes or until battery dies!
When operating correctly it will allow fan for maybe 2 minutes after shutdown, to compensate for temp spike when engine is shut off
#5
flushed my radiator...solved the problem
I had same problem with fan running after shutting off engine. Didn't matter if cold or hot outside and it never would do this before. I took to the dealer who recommended a radiator flush ($140) which I put off until my battery went dead after having the fan run for 15minutes at a time. I replaced the battery (which was free still under 2 year warranty at Adv Auto parts) and flushed the radiator. No more problems with the fan running. Positive side, I got a new battery and flushed radiator for $140.
#6
factory coolant should be good for 5 to 7 years max
other coolants go 5 years max- they additives go acidic in aluminum home~
while new coolant will solve many problems, I would still replace the fan sensor switch- its not that much to ensure and insure the motors safety
Get it hot once- probably ok--get it hot twice,,,not good news headed your way
other coolants go 5 years max- they additives go acidic in aluminum home~
while new coolant will solve many problems, I would still replace the fan sensor switch- its not that much to ensure and insure the motors safety
Get it hot once- probably ok--get it hot twice,,,not good news headed your way
#7
ck your invoice--for 140 bucks to ~flush~ they may have replaced the switch already
You can hope!
make sure you run the heater a few minutes then next morning ck rad is full to bottem of filler neck and res bottle at cold max (cold engine)
If the tech overlooked the heater you have an air bubble waiting to get out= at a bad time- and the heater gulps some fluid in ..lowering the level in rad- which hopefully pulled it over from res bottle
ck the hose inside res bottle cap is on secure- its a critical part of the whole system-
it falls off and no transfer of fluid when needed with heating and cooling of the engine
You can hope!
make sure you run the heater a few minutes then next morning ck rad is full to bottem of filler neck and res bottle at cold max (cold engine)
If the tech overlooked the heater you have an air bubble waiting to get out= at a bad time- and the heater gulps some fluid in ..lowering the level in rad- which hopefully pulled it over from res bottle
ck the hose inside res bottle cap is on secure- its a critical part of the whole system-
it falls off and no transfer of fluid when needed with heating and cooling of the engine
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#9
go to the parts store and tell them you need the fan sensor that goes in the radiator
dont need dealer part on this
dont need dealer part on this
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