engine stays on, electric system shuts down for split second
04-20-2013, 11:42 AM
#1
engine stays on, electric system shuts down for split second
Hi all,
Any type of help would be great with my issue.
I own a 2000 Acura TL.
Recently my electrical system, at random times, while driving looks like it shuts off for a split second. Engine and car is still running but I notice all my gauges would drop to 0 and then go back up to where it's at.
(Ex: driving at 2000RPM, drops to 0 and comes back up to 2000RPM)
Radio would shut off and come back on. Headlights sometimes would not come back on unless I turn it off and on. (Sometimes I would have to turn it on and off a few times)
I thought it was the spark plugs, but just replaced it and same issue occurs.
Anyone else ever experience this or any possible troubleshooting techniques?
Thanks,
Eric
Any type of help would be great with my issue.
I own a 2000 Acura TL.
Recently my electrical system, at random times, while driving looks like it shuts off for a split second. Engine and car is still running but I notice all my gauges would drop to 0 and then go back up to where it's at.
(Ex: driving at 2000RPM, drops to 0 and comes back up to 2000RPM)
Radio would shut off and come back on. Headlights sometimes would not come back on unless I turn it off and on. (Sometimes I would have to turn it on and off a few times)
I thought it was the spark plugs, but just replaced it and same issue occurs.
Anyone else ever experience this or any possible troubleshooting techniques?
Thanks,
Eric
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Acura TL 03 (Type s) (09-11-2023)
04-22-2013, 02:22 PM
#3
Thanks for letting me know. I was googling and researching some possible solutions and it seems like some people were having these symptoms were saying the same. But there were some inconsistencies.
I'll definitely try and see if that works.
I'll definitely try and see if that works.
04-22-2013, 04:39 PM
#4
Mr.Helpful Diagram
Check your battery terminals for corrosion and loose connection, they must be clean and tight.
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Acura TL 03 (Type s) (09-11-2023)
05-15-2013, 04:56 PM
#7
Yeah, as mentioned previously.....check all of the electrical connections and grounds. Have the electrical system load tested at any local auto parts store for free. While you're there, price out the ignition switch. Aftermarket switches are usually equivalent to the OEM part, just get one that has a warranty.
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Acura TL 03 (Type s) (09-11-2023)
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05-28-2013, 07:35 AM
#8
Just replaced the ignition switch Brand: Beck Arnley.
Still the same results after driving about 40 minutes on the highway.
Symptoms:
1) intermittent dimming of lights when stepping on breaks
2) Intermittent shut down of electrical system (radio turns off then back on, all meters drop for that split second and picks back up) for split second. Engine stays on and car continues to run.
troubleshooting:
1) replaced spark plugs
2) replaced ignition switch
3) Check terminals (clean)
Any other ideas?
Thanks
Still the same results after driving about 40 minutes on the highway.
Symptoms:
1) intermittent dimming of lights when stepping on breaks
2) Intermittent shut down of electrical system (radio turns off then back on, all meters drop for that split second and picks back up) for split second. Engine stays on and car continues to run.
troubleshooting:
1) replaced spark plugs
2) replaced ignition switch
3) Check terminals (clean)
Any other ideas?
Thanks
05-28-2013, 03:47 PM
#9
Did ya have the electrical system load tested ?
This may help narrow down the problem. Could be the alternator not keeping the battery charged ?
Ya may have a scavenger draining or wiring issue, perhaps check the connections and grounds again.
This may help narrow down the problem. Could be the alternator not keeping the battery charged ?
Ya may have a scavenger draining or wiring issue, perhaps check the connections and grounds again.
05-29-2013, 07:47 AM
#10
Senior Moderator
Agree^ have the electrical system testes. Especially the Battery and Alternator. Sounds like a electrical system issue.
06-10-2013, 09:47 PM
#11
Advanced
I am currently experiencing the same issue with my 00 tl.radio , gauges, headlights all turn off for few seconds then come back on. Had my alternator tested and it passed. No check engine light. Not sure what else I should check. Battery terminals are super tight and clean....
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Acura TL 03 (Type s) (09-11-2023)
06-13-2013, 09:07 AM
#12
@SarahSTAR401
Have you dimmed your interior lights using the dimmer control?
I had mine set lower and dimmer than standard but as I increased the brightness I haven't noticed my car going on and off. (But I also have not driven the car more than 45 minutes on the highway recently. so I haven't tested this)
Theory comes from an article I read from another forum.
"Ken, when the dash lights go out, doe the lights on the radio and A/C control panel also go out? If so, then you are probably looking at a problem with the dimmer control module. If this is the case, let me know and I will give you some other checks to make.
First, put the ignition key in the column and then place the ignition switch in the RUN position (engine can be running or not). Next, place the headlight switch in the parking light position. This should turn on all the lights on the dash. Now, turn the dimmer switch all the way clockwise to raise the brightness as high as possible, then turn it back just a little bit to get it away from the switched on position. Now, with access to the back of the dimmer switch, do a voltage check of the yellow wire and of the orange/blue wire. Both of these wires should be at about the same potential (within 1 VDC). If not, then your dimmer switch is bad (assuming the dash lights are not lit). If these two voltages are within 1 VDC of each other and the lights are out, then this is almost garanteed to be a bad dimmer module. Verify the dimmer module is bad by access the dimmer module and checking the red/blue wires for atleast 11 VDC (anything above 9 VDC is good). No voltage, confirms bad dimmer module. If you do have voltage, then it is a problem with your instrument cluster.
You can also do a quick check and when the dash lights don't come on, turn the dimmer all the way clockwise (manually putting dash lights on their brightest setting). do the dash lights go to full brightness? If no, then this confirms a bad headlight switch (can also check the exterior lights to confirm). If the dash lights do go to full brightness and don't flicker, then it confirms your problem lies in the dimmer/dimmer control module."
Let me know if this helps!
Have you dimmed your interior lights using the dimmer control?
I had mine set lower and dimmer than standard but as I increased the brightness I haven't noticed my car going on and off. (But I also have not driven the car more than 45 minutes on the highway recently. so I haven't tested this)
Theory comes from an article I read from another forum.
"Ken, when the dash lights go out, doe the lights on the radio and A/C control panel also go out? If so, then you are probably looking at a problem with the dimmer control module. If this is the case, let me know and I will give you some other checks to make.
First, put the ignition key in the column and then place the ignition switch in the RUN position (engine can be running or not). Next, place the headlight switch in the parking light position. This should turn on all the lights on the dash. Now, turn the dimmer switch all the way clockwise to raise the brightness as high as possible, then turn it back just a little bit to get it away from the switched on position. Now, with access to the back of the dimmer switch, do a voltage check of the yellow wire and of the orange/blue wire. Both of these wires should be at about the same potential (within 1 VDC). If not, then your dimmer switch is bad (assuming the dash lights are not lit). If these two voltages are within 1 VDC of each other and the lights are out, then this is almost garanteed to be a bad dimmer module. Verify the dimmer module is bad by access the dimmer module and checking the red/blue wires for atleast 11 VDC (anything above 9 VDC is good). No voltage, confirms bad dimmer module. If you do have voltage, then it is a problem with your instrument cluster.
You can also do a quick check and when the dash lights don't come on, turn the dimmer all the way clockwise (manually putting dash lights on their brightest setting). do the dash lights go to full brightness? If no, then this confirms a bad headlight switch (can also check the exterior lights to confirm). If the dash lights do go to full brightness and don't flicker, then it confirms your problem lies in the dimmer/dimmer control module."
Let me know if this helps!
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3.2TLc (06-14-2013)
06-13-2013, 10:35 PM
#13
Advanced
@SarahSTAR401
Have you dimmed your interior lights using the dimmer control?
I had mine set lower and dimmer than standard but as I increased the brightness I haven't noticed my car going on and off. (But I also have not driven the car more than 45 minutes on the highway recently. so I haven't tested this)
Theory comes from an article I read from another forum.
"Ken, when the dash lights go out, doe the lights on the radio and A/C control panel also go out? If so, then you are probably looking at a problem with the dimmer control module. If this is the case, let me know and I will give you some other checks to make.
First, put the ignition key in the column and then place the ignition switch in the RUN position (engine can be running or not). Next, place the headlight switch in the parking light position. This should turn on all the lights on the dash. Now, turn the dimmer switch all the way clockwise to raise the brightness as high as possible, then turn it back just a little bit to get it away from the switched on position. Now, with access to the back of the dimmer switch, do a voltage check of the yellow wire and of the orange/blue wire. Both of these wires should be at about the same potential (within 1 VDC). If not, then your dimmer switch is bad (assuming the dash lights are not lit). If these two voltages are within 1 VDC of each other and the lights are out, then this is almost garanteed to be a bad dimmer module. Verify the dimmer module is bad by access the dimmer module and checking the red/blue wires for atleast 11 VDC (anything above 9 VDC is good). No voltage, confirms bad dimmer module. If you do have voltage, then it is a problem with your instrument cluster.
You can also do a quick check and when the dash lights don't come on, turn the dimmer all the way clockwise (manually putting dash lights on their brightest setting). do the dash lights go to full brightness? If no, then this confirms a bad headlight switch (can also check the exterior lights to confirm). If the dash lights do go to full brightness and don't flicker, then it confirms your problem lies in the dimmer/dimmer control module."
Let me know if this helps!
Have you dimmed your interior lights using the dimmer control?
I had mine set lower and dimmer than standard but as I increased the brightness I haven't noticed my car going on and off. (But I also have not driven the car more than 45 minutes on the highway recently. so I haven't tested this)
Theory comes from an article I read from another forum.
"Ken, when the dash lights go out, doe the lights on the radio and A/C control panel also go out? If so, then you are probably looking at a problem with the dimmer control module. If this is the case, let me know and I will give you some other checks to make.
First, put the ignition key in the column and then place the ignition switch in the RUN position (engine can be running or not). Next, place the headlight switch in the parking light position. This should turn on all the lights on the dash. Now, turn the dimmer switch all the way clockwise to raise the brightness as high as possible, then turn it back just a little bit to get it away from the switched on position. Now, with access to the back of the dimmer switch, do a voltage check of the yellow wire and of the orange/blue wire. Both of these wires should be at about the same potential (within 1 VDC). If not, then your dimmer switch is bad (assuming the dash lights are not lit). If these two voltages are within 1 VDC of each other and the lights are out, then this is almost garanteed to be a bad dimmer module. Verify the dimmer module is bad by access the dimmer module and checking the red/blue wires for atleast 11 VDC (anything above 9 VDC is good). No voltage, confirms bad dimmer module. If you do have voltage, then it is a problem with your instrument cluster.
You can also do a quick check and when the dash lights don't come on, turn the dimmer all the way clockwise (manually putting dash lights on their brightest setting). do the dash lights go to full brightness? If no, then this confirms a bad headlight switch (can also check the exterior lights to confirm). If the dash lights do go to full brightness and don't flicker, then it confirms your problem lies in the dimmer/dimmer control module."
Let me know if this helps!
unfortunately not the problem here. I gave up, i brought it to the shop. I will come back and let you know what happened once i get the car back probably in about a week. someone said it may have to do with the ABS/SRS sensors being bad and causing electrical problems thoughout the car. But ill let you know for sure once i find out.... poo..
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3.2TLc (06-14-2013)
06-14-2013, 04:42 PM
#15
Advanced
So i got my car back today and it was due to bad battery, wires, and cables which i got fixed for 80 dollars.. Although the battery tested normal at autozone. the days after it went bad due to malfunctions. My car is now fixed =] happy camper/
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3.2TLc (06-14-2013)
06-14-2013, 06:32 PM
#16
Ya had an honest mechanic letting ya off at less then $100.
Thanks for posting the results as it may help others to realize that the basic simple stuff is often overlooked. Our TL's put quite a drain on a battery. Also, things like electrical connections and grounds take a toll through time, with their exposure to the elements.
Normal basic wear and tear items that will ultimately turn into electrical gremlins !
Thanks for posting the results as it may help others to realize that the basic simple stuff is often overlooked. Our TL's put quite a drain on a battery. Also, things like electrical connections and grounds take a toll through time, with their exposure to the elements.
Normal basic wear and tear items that will ultimately turn into electrical gremlins !
06-15-2013, 09:23 AM
#17
Advanced
Ya had an honest mechanic letting ya off at less then $100.
Thanks for posting the results as it may help others to realize that the basic simple stuff is often overlooked. Our TL's put quite a drain on a battery. Also, things like electrical connections and grounds take a toll through time, with their exposure to the elements.
Normal basic wear and tear items that will ultimately turn into electrical gremlins !
Thanks for posting the results as it may help others to realize that the basic simple stuff is often overlooked. Our TL's put quite a drain on a battery. Also, things like electrical connections and grounds take a toll through time, with their exposure to the elements.
Normal basic wear and tear items that will ultimately turn into electrical gremlins !
Okay guys....
Bad news....
problem, not solved.... Car is still going bonkers. It was well behaved for one day and now its back to the same stupid crap. everything goes on and off and when its happening the TCS and ABS light come on and that seems to trigger the problem.
06-17-2013, 11:08 AM
#19
There still may be a electrical short, poor connection or ground somewhere ????
Maybe an iffy relay ? If the shop want's to replace the computer, make sure that they guarantee their work.
Maybe an iffy relay ? If the shop want's to replace the computer, make sure that they guarantee their work.
06-18-2013, 09:09 PM
#20
Advanced
Okay well good news is that its not the computer. They said its something behind the dashboard called an intel cluster or something like that not exactly sure of the name and its also abs sensor.
06-19-2013, 05:07 PM
#21
Yeah, sometimes it makes ya wonder if they really have a clue or just guessing !
09-16-2015, 11:54 PM
#22
1st Gear
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11-29-2015, 08:08 AM
#23
Had same issue - easy fix
Wish I would have seen this earlier, I had the same issue. Intermittent shutdown of electrical but engine kept running. '00 Acura TL.
I too replaced the ignition switch, but the issue continued. Then I found a black box about 2" square the main power runs through. I can't remember the name of it, but I removed it, took it apart and immediately recognized cold/cracked solder joints. I resoldered all the joints and and reinstalled.
After the resolder, I never had the problem again.
Good luck !
I too replaced the ignition switch, but the issue continued. Then I found a black box about 2" square the main power runs through. I can't remember the name of it, but I removed it, took it apart and immediately recognized cold/cracked solder joints. I resoldered all the joints and and reinstalled.
After the resolder, I never had the problem again.
Good luck !
08-29-2019, 10:15 PM
#26
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engine stays on, electric system shuts down for split second
Acura 2006 TSX. I have the same issue but it only happens if I have my A/C is on. But it is the exact same problem. So far, if my ac is off, all is good. Also, when I switch the AC on, it seems the engine runs rough. Switch the AC off and immediately the engine runs smooth and quiet. Oh, it has a brand new alternator installed to fix the problem but the issue remained the same. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
04-05-2022, 11:43 PM
#28
Wish I would have seen this earlier, I had the same issue. Intermittent shutdown of electrical but engine kept running. '00 Acura TL.
I too replaced the ignition switch, but the issue continued. Then I found a black box about 2" square the main power runs through. I can't remember the name of it, but I removed it, took it apart and immediately recognized cold/cracked solder joints. I resoldered all the joints and and reinstalled.
After the resolder, I never had the problem again.
Good luck !
I too replaced the ignition switch, but the issue continued. Then I found a black box about 2" square the main power runs through. I can't remember the name of it, but I removed it, took it apart and immediately recognized cold/cracked solder joints. I resoldered all the joints and and reinstalled.
After the resolder, I never had the problem again.
Good luck !
Where was the relay location?
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