I had a stuck caliper causing the outer pad to wear quickly. I had to replace it to pass inspection. I attempted this tonight, had everything back together and proceeded to bleed the brakes clockwise from driver's side. I came to the last one (the new remanufactured caliper) and couldn't tighten the bleeder to stop the flow of fluid. Then I noticed that it was loose, the threads were stripped. The guy at the auto parts store may have started it wrong and I never checked it as this was my first time attempting a caliper replacement. I now have leaking fluid, a drip every 10 seconds I put a bucket under it and am going to bed.

1.Can I just get a new bleeder valve, or are the caliper threads probably shot too and I need to replace the whole caliper again?

2.Will this pose a problem for me to bleed the system out now (ie. too much air getting into the system with the leaky bleeder valve)?

3.If I can just replace the bleeder valve, what size is it and can I get it at any auto parts store?

I'm really ticked off. I thought I had everything wrapped up and I should have double checked the valve before I installed the caliper. Thanks for any advice. I feel like a complete idiot! Anyway, I guess that's how you learn...the hard way.

 

Just to clarify, it's the threads that are stripped, not the head. Thanks.

 

the place that does the rebuild would have put the bleeder in
Did you have it tight while doing the other wheels?

they sell just the bleeder -ask parts store for size, its in their info book 8 or 10 mm iirc
If the threads in caliper are trashed, they will have to replace the caliper for you- warranty

Question: you say bled brakes left side first
do you mean start at left front- driver front- then RF RR LR

its good to prefill the caliper as able so its got lubricant as its being moved as others are bled
ALL the caliper bleeders should be closed, then create pressure or suction (tool) and open 1 bleeder maybe 1/4 turn- just so fluid can escape with the air
Use a clear plastic hose that fits tight to bleeder, place other end in container with 1 inch new brake fluid in it,,that prevents sucking air back in
close bleeder and rebuild pressure
takes 1 t0 1.5 qts for a good flush,maybe more in this case

IF all the fluid runs out tonight- you will just have to fully bleed the system
PLUS when done, do 2 ABS stops from 45mph to full stop
if pedal was better 2nd time rebleed all wheels
there was air hiding in the abs controller!

NOTE!!!! IF 2 MAN METHOD= place a 2x4 block or similar- under brake pedal arm
limit pedal travel to its normal 3/4 way to the floor
going past that will damage the main oring seal in the master cyl!

 

I woke up this am and had a thought. I tried the old bleeder screw after cleaning it up to see if the caliper threads are still good. The OEM screw is a much better material. I went in and tightened up just as the other 3 did last night. I'll now go back and rebleed the brakes again. After the dripping all night I still didn't fall below the minimum in the reservoir. At least I'll have ALL new brake fluid now!

Thanks for your help 01TL04TL

 

no sweat,,you know how to bleed them properly? use about 1.5 qts for full system flush
remember the special order too,,critical it be done that way
Anytime you have a main line open- to replace caliper- you MUST do the 2 abs full stops
and I mean find water or gravel and stomp the brake pedal- swerve the wheel -break traction! makes the brake pedal pump under your foot--thats abs active!
Note pedal feel
accelerate to 45 and repeat, if 2nd time had firmer pedal- had trapped air in abs
Not to be confused with regular trapped air in brakes!

 

after this,,flush the brake fluid once a year--makes a big diff in how the system operates
prevents rusting of caliper like you had
May need other caliper(s) depending on how bad things were