Hey guys, I'm new here so I apologize for anything wrong that I do, just let me know and I will try and fix it.

So my 2003 Acura TL S has been sitting for a year since I blew the tranny. Well I just got the transmission replaced and now I need to fix all the little things wrong with it, currently I need a new wheel bearing, sway bar links(not sure if anything else with the suspension or not), brake rotors, and a new battery. I don't think I will have a problem with any of those things, the problem is that I have an electric draw somewhere and I don't exactly know how to begin to find it. I was wondering if there is anything in particular popular with my Acura that would cause a, "450milliwatt(Or -amp?)" draw from my battery. Or if anyone has any tricks to figure out where a draw can be coming from? Thanks! I would really appreciate some feedback, I love my car and I would like to make it pristine to drive again like when I bought it!

 

Start by pulling one fuse at a time in the driver and then passenger kick panels. After pulling each fuse, check the amp draw.

If the draw goes down to an acceptable level somewhere around ~50 milliamps or less then you found the problem circuit.

Then all thats left is to fix the circuit with the high draw on it.

 

the alarm, the clock or a short
Is the battery fully charged
Have you ckd each ground cable- there are 5 aux braided wires in addition to main battery neg

the main ground cable has a tendency to come loose at its connector -under the battery tray, cable comes loose inside its fitting!

 

So I did the deductive test light process and found that the draw is coming from the "Back Up, ACC" fuse in what I imagine is the main fuse box. I checked the radio, heat, heated seats, power to center console, and none of them are it. So I'm probably going to have to tear the dash apart and do some real searching. One thing I did notice is when I push the door close switch, or the switch that turns the door's lights on when it's opened, the test light dims slightly. Is there a hint here I should be investigating? Thanks for the help guys.

 

Also, I have an aftermarket Radio. The light never went off when I unhooked it all but could there be something that an aftermarket deck would trigger a constant draw?

 

How is your battery? If the car sat a year, your battery and connections should be checked first.

 

Make sure the top of the battery is clean, wipe off any dirt.

When testing make sure the key is out of the ignition, open and close the drivers door then wait about 12 seconds. What results did you get?

 

I would check the trunk light latch...
In any case you can test it quickly: Open the middle arm rest in the passenger seat with the trunk closed and see if the trunk light remains on? That could cause that small leak and its also coincidentally wired to the Back Up, ACC Fuse.

 

Skirm = Our Man of Minutia!
how you come up with the oddball things that can go wrong is amazing

 

^ I had that issue before! hehehe I guess "been there, done that" strikes again.

 

DAMHTFIK: don't ask me how the f I know

 

Is it wired correctly?

So you unhooked the radio and there was no change in draw? Anything plugged into the center console accessory plug-in?

 

I havent checked anything on the car yet since I've been busy celebrating my dads birthday babysitting and what not but I have all day tomorrow to fuss around. I will let you guys know what I find out. As of right now I have the dashboard, navigator, center console, radio area, and glove box all torn apart and I found nothing that did anything to change the light. The battery is brand new I just got it. Is there a way I can check the alarm? I'm not sure if its even hooked up or anything but I don't ever remember triggering it and I've done it on pretty much all of my cars by accident lol. I'll also be sure to check the trunk light. Thanks again.

 

New batteries can be less than fully charged!

Every week it sits on that metal storage shelf at the store, power is draining away.
Always put it on a real battery charger- battery tender jr works, to get full juice into it before any testing

Even brand new parts can be defective, the battery losing power within itself?

 

the more things you wildly tear apart looking for a problem, the more likely it is to be a really simple thing you overlooked,,

not that I have routinely done that in my life

 

seriously, a car show on tv said: when any electrical draw is the problem, start with remove ground cables from its mount, clean with wire wheel, brush or sandpaper - and inspect every single ground wire with a multi-meter.
The main ground cable has a problem at base connector, and every aux ground wire from engine/trans to frame

Rust and crud growth there can limit the grounds ability = not good for a system that requires exacting voltage to get good readings for the ECU

 

OP.

Where is the Acc panel/circuit located? What is on that circuit?

It could be the Blend Door motor stuck on. There is precedence. Mind as well check the Mode motor too while you're at it. Will only take a few minutes. Just disconnect the connector at the motor (one at a time).

Both motors are on the left and right sides of the center console under the dash. Look for two black boxes just a little smaller than a deck of cards.

Also check the activation switches on all the interior lights, could be stuck on.

 

#11 Blend Door motor
#19 Mode motor

 

Location of switches and lights